what happens if the two images in the rangefinder don't overlap?

[syafi]

hi bros,

i'm new to rangefinders and i'm wondering what would happen as above? would the picture turn out blurry? it just came across my mind while i was shooting today. using a yashica electro 35 gsn here.

and what would happen if i turn the asa knob to, say 400, when the film i'm using is a 200?

 

[mikhail33]

Is the pictures dont over lap, then it will be out of focus. Because if it doesn't cover lap at point a, it will overlap at some other point right??

Then you will be pushing the film by 1 stop. Just go to the shop were you develop and ask them to push the film by 1 stop.
FYI, 1 stop is doubling the iso (200 to 400) and 2 stops is doubling it twice (200 to 400 to 800 iso).
Pulling is the opposite, so if u are using 400 iso film, pulling by 1 stop is using the film at iso 200, or halving the iso.

 

[bayusuputra]

hi bros,

i'm new to rangefinders and i'm wondering what would happen as above? would the picture turn out blurry? it just came across my mind while i was shooting today. using a yashica electro 35 gsn here.

and what would happen if i turn the asa knob to, say 400, when the film i'm using is a 200?

means it will be focused at some other point but not on the object in the focus "box"..

shooting at 400 when you use 200 is underexposing it, the picture will be 1-stop underexposed.. but negatives have quite high a tolerance.. actually, i shoot at 800 when i use ASA400 film to increase the contrast slightly.. i'm not sure about the rest's opinion, but for me, this works to a certain extent..

 

[Scandiacus]

means it will be focused at some other point but not on the object in the focus "box"..

shooting at 400 when you use 200 is underexposing it, the picture will be 1-stop underexposed.. but negatives have quite high a tolerance.. actually, i shoot at 800 when i use ASA400 film to increase the contrast slightly.. i'm not sure about the rest's opinion, but for me, this works to a certain extent..

I guess different people uses different method(s) to increase contrast...some use filters while some develop it differently. Pushing has it's drawbacks of images being grainier and losing shadow details.

 

[bayusuputra]

I guess different people uses different method(s) to increase contrast...some use filters while some develop it differently. Pushing has it's drawbacks of images being grainier and losing shadow details.

yup, that's why i stated it's only my opinion, because this is what i personally do, and i know others have different method and mine is certainly not the best (may even be wrong)

 

[shiryuu59]

if the two images in the rangefinder don't overlap... you will get a blurry image , just like what mikhail said

i was wondering... i was about to start the same thread but regarding the image at the corner... how do you get a tack sharp object if your object is at the corner as we all know that the focusing bracket is at the middle...

sorry for the OOT...

 

[Yoricko]

If they're not intertwined, they're not in focus.

If you set your meter at 400, on a film rated at 200, and processed NORMALLY, you'll get pictures that are UNDERexposed by 1-stop. You can request for push-processing service to compensate for this, but the picture will gain more contrast, lose shadow details, and have larger grains. Normally for back-lit subjects, you can 'trick' your meter to compensate for it.

 

[Bravia]

if the two images in the rangefinder don't overlap... you will get a blurry image , just like what mikhail said

i was wondering... i was about to start the same thread but regarding the image at the corner... how do you get a tack sharp object if your object is at the corner as we all know that the focusing bracket is at the middle...

sorry for the OOT...

Mate, you place focusing patch over your subject, get it in focus, and then recompose.

 

[Bravia]

If you are in a situation where you need to align, compose and shoot very quickly, say like street photography or events, you can set a smaller aperture so that even if your images are closely aligned, you can take the shot and you know that it will still be sharp. I know a famous rf street shooter here shoots at f8 when street shooting.

 

[ZoomP]

If you are in a situation where you need to align, compose and shoot very quickly, say like street photography or events, you can set a smaller aperture so that even if your images are closely aligned, you can take the shot and you know that it will still be sharp. I know a famous rf street shooter here shoots at f8 when street shooting.

And his wife is named Angela.

 

[excelsius]

Depending on the aperture, it might not be TOTALLY out of focus. If the subject is in the depth of field, then it should be sharp (not pin sharp but good enough). Street shooters use this technique everyday; hyperfocal focusing. I hardly focus now. Just set to f8 and be mindful on the depth of field.

 

[syafi]

great! thanks guys for the help. i've been seeing people mentioning that they have CLA-ed their rf. what's CLA?

 

[fullwater]

Clean - cos it is dirty
Lubricate - so all mechanical gears and movements are smooth and nice
Adjust - so u dont get out of focused images when u thought that u have focused correctly

 

[bayusuputra]

Adjust - so u dont get out of focused images when u thought that u have focused correctly

yup, but not only in focusing mechanism, but in other mechanisms as well, sometimes shutter speeds and/or aperture mechanism..

 

[shiryuu59]

Mate, you place focusing patch over your subject, get it in focus, and then recompose.

thanks bro... that is what i've been doing... as i like to shoot wide open ( i think a lot of other member do so ).. i just thought that there might be another method that i dont know... he he he

also tried shooting @ f/8 but i kinda like the shallow DOF..

thanks for pointing it up...

cheers

 

[artspraken]

tee hee hee...if image dun overlap, then i suppose u shld hope that ur lens got focus shift....hahahaha

 

[Cactus jACK]

Just to reinforce and elaborate on some of the points raised...

If your 2 images do not overlap in the focusing patch, the object in the focusing patch is not in focus. That is not to say that the whole picture will be blur. As others have pointed out, something else (or more specifically, another plane) is in focus. When the image from the rangefinder mirror is aligned to right of the image in the focusing patch, then your focal plan is nearer than the object in the focusing patch. Conversely, aligned to the right would imply that the focal plan is behind. If you want to focusing on something off centre, just focus and then compose.

As for the film speed, setting at 400 when using 200 will cause your camera meter to think that the film is more sensitive than it actually is, by 1 stop. Therefore, your shots will end up underexposed by 1 stop. However, some have said that they deliberately underexpose their film so as to increase the contrast in the image. This is done by adjusting the processing time, to "push" process the the film, by 1 stop. If you do not "push" process your film after deliberately underexposing your film, your images will simply come out... underexposed.