What brand of tripod do you use?

[looteer]

cheapest S$240 from 300+ model 1210 if i remember correctly,
model 1212 is S$310 from 400+ both are not those carbon fiber types..... don't want to venture to that.....

 

[TME]

Originally posted by looteer
cheapest S$240 from 300+ model 1210 if i remember correctly,
model 1212 is S$310 from 400+ both are not those carbon fiber types..... don't want to venture to that.....

Should be okay loh! Got spirit level or not?!

 

[looteer]

small one don't have .... big one done know maybe...... prices are much cheaper than b&h.....

 

[ninelives]

Originally posted by TME



Should be okay loh! Got spirit level or not?!

got spirit within, final fantasy.

 

[TME]

Originally posted by ninelives


got spirit within, final fantasy.

Yeah, yeah! Siaozzz! I got a Omni Bounce today for my Minolta 3500xi program flash! So happy! $28 from Foto Guide. The rest of the shops around that area all don't have stock........walked around like mad until finally go to Foto Guide.

Also went to Alex Photo. The Dynax 7 there $990. My 505si he only offer $200. Hope to sell it off for around $300 cos that is the price of the camera at 2nd hand shops loh! Sigh........the vertical grip still need another $235...........must start saving. Maybe next year can get.......)

 

[Juvelyn]

I got a Omni Bounce today for my Minolta 3500xi program flash!

harlow

know omni bounce is used to diffuse the flash, but under what circumstances do you use it and in what type of photography?

 

[Mocha]

Originally posted by Juvelyn


harlow

know omni bounce is used to diffuse the flash, but under what circumstances do you use it and in what type of photography?

There are many uses, no fix rule on how you want to use it.

One common use is on macro shot. External flash can be harsh on close-up, hence omni bounce comes in handy in softening/diffusing the lght.

 

[TME]

Hahaha...learnt the hard way. Never use the Omni Bounce inddors under coloured lighting, e.g. ballroom stage for a function. The flash intensity is not powerful enough to light up the subject and u get colouration from the abovemntioned stage lights.

I also like to know when to use. Cos I suddenly realize my flash also got a low power mode, probably for close-up or portraits. Haven't had a chance to experiment again. But will try all 3 options - full power, low power and full power + Omni Bounce.

 

[ckiang]

Originally posted by TME
Hahaha...learnt the hard way. Never use the Omni Bounce inddors under coloured lighting, e.g. ballroom stage for a function. The flash intensity is not powerful enough to light up the subject and u get colouration from the abovemntioned stage lights.

I also like to know when to use. Cos I suddenly realize my flash also got a low power mode, probably for close-up or portraits. Haven't had a chance to experiment again. But will try all 3 options - full power, low power and full power + Omni Bounce.

Like I said before, Omnibounce is overrated. :devil: :rbounce: and results were not too good for me.

Also with any kind of bounce device, make sure:
1. flash is powerful enough. Omnibounce loses 3 stops of light (or so I read)

2. bounce surface (e.g. ceiling, wall, etc) is white.

I find that with 400 or 800 film, a reasonably sized bounce card and a flash unit which is reasonably powerful (e.g. Nikon SB28, Canon 550EX etc), you can still probaby cover 3-4m without a ceiling.

Regards
CK

 

[TME]

Originally posted by ckiang


Like I said before, Omnibounce is overrated. :devil: :rbounce: and results were not too good for me.

Also with any kind of bounce device, make sure:
1. flash is powerful enough. Omnibounce loses 3 stops of light (or so I read)

2. bounce surface (e.g. ceiling, wall, etc) is white.

I find that with 400 or 800 film, a reasonably sized bounce card and a flash unit which is reasonably powerful (e.g. Nikon SB28, Canon 550EX etc), you can still probaby cover 3-4m without a ceiling.

Regards
CK

Omni Bounce does not bounce light right? Mine is just a white translucent cap over the flash lens. I just point the flash at the subject and shoot. As for how many stops is lost, I really don't know. But point 2 does not apply to Omni Bounce loh! I'm using a 3500xi from Minolta, so that should be in the same league as the Nikon speedlight u mention.

I wonder how to make a bounce card/ Cos I went to Cathay and they sold Sto-Fen bounce cards or more accurately bounce hoods. These look so ugly and clumsy and expensive I decided against them. What I am afraid of is that DIY bounce cards may cause a yellowish cast if not white enough. Any other tips for reducing the power of flash? Any ideas about low power option on the program flashes? Thanks!

 

[Diablo]

to those who own manfrotto, do u trek or hike for photography?

Try carrying a camera bagpack and a tripod(even a slik Pro500) is like doing log PT..at least that's what I felt..

so most of the time, I dump the tripod in the boot of the car :bsmilie:

 

[ckiang]

Originally posted by TME


Omni Bounce does not bounce light right? Mine is just a white translucent cap over the flash lens. I just point the flash at the subject and shoot. As for how many stops is lost, I really don't know. But point 2 does not apply to Omni Bounce loh! I'm using a 3500xi from Minolta, so that should be in the same league as the Nikon speedlight u mention.

I wonder how to make a bounce card/ Cos I went to Cathay and they sold Sto-Fen bounce cards or more accurately bounce hoods. These look so ugly and clumsy and expensive I decided against them. What I am afraid of is that DIY bounce cards may cause a yellowish cast if not white enough. Any other tips for reducing the power of flash? Any ideas about low power option on the program flashes? Thanks!

Shooting with just the OmniBounce facing your subject directly gives results not a lot different from shooting without OmniBounce. It's supposed to be used in conjunction with a bounce surface (e.g. ceiling) and the flash head tilted 45°.

Bounce card - just go to any stationary shop. Buy a reasonably sized white one (e.g. A5/5x7") and velcro it to the head. I shot over 10 weddings and a few events with such an arrangement, never had problems.

To reduce flash power, use the flashs's flash exposure compensation.

Regards
CK

 

[JRTerrier]

just bought a Velbon Mountain Chaser. Heavy bugger but I like the height it gives.

 

[TME]

Originally posted by ckiang


Shooting with just the OmniBounce facing your subject directly gives results not a lot different from shooting without OmniBounce. It's supposed to be used in conjunction with a bounce surface (e.g. ceiling) and the flash head tilted 45°.

Bounce card - just go to any stationary shop. Buy a reasonably sized white one (e.g. A5/5x7") and velcro it to the head. I shot over 10 weddings and a few events with such an arrangement, never had problems.

To reduce flash power, use the flashs's flash exposure compensation.

Regards
CK

But my photos indoors in a restaurant were all very grainy and underexposed with the use of the OmniBounce direct. I don't think my flash is powerful enough to do a bounce with the OmniBounce on. Anyway, if I could bounce, I think I wouldn't need the OmniBounce anymore! What else could be wrong? I don't have a suitable setting to do an experiemtn with one roll and find out what happened. As it is I am only guessing that it was the OmniBounce that reduce the flash intensity so that my shots were mostly underexposed.

When u use the white card and velcro it to the flash head, where is the flash head pointing? Upwards or direct? I notice a number of people taking shots (at NUS convocation) using the same technique. But their flashes look like they had larger GNs than mine.

My flash (3500xi) as a low power button. Can I use it to lower the intensity of the flash? Basically I just don't want that "caught in the headlights" kind of halo when taking against a very dark background. I tend to shoot very close to the subject bec of the 24mm on my zoom. Would it help if I backed off a little and say use 28 or 50mm to take the same scene. In this case, the fall-off from the flash may help to lessen the halo?

 

[syncmaster]

Hey this thread is still back in life !!!

Go go go Manfrotto ...

 

[Diablo]

Originally posted by syncmaster
Hey this thread is still back in life !!!

Go go go Manfrotto ...

I hate manfrotto tripods. They are too heavy and much hassle to use. Esp the 055

 

[ckiang]

Originally posted by TME



But my photos indoors in a restaurant were all very grainy and underexposed with the use of the OmniBounce direct. I don't think my flash is powerful enough to do a bounce with the OmniBounce on. Anyway, if I could bounce, I think I wouldn't need the OmniBounce anymore! What else could be wrong? I don't have a suitable setting to do an experiemtn with one roll and find out what happened. As it is I am only guessing that it was the OmniBounce that reduce the flash intensity so that my shots were mostly underexposed.

When u use the white card and velcro it to the flash head, where is the flash head pointing? Upwards or direct? I notice a number of people taking shots (at NUS convocation) using the same technique. But their flashes look like they had larger GNs than mine.

My flash (3500xi) as a low power button. Can I use it to lower the intensity of the flash? Basically I just don't want that "caught in the headlights" kind of halo when taking against a very dark background. I tend to shoot very close to the subject bec of the 24mm on my zoom. Would it help if I backed off a little and say use 28 or 50mm to take the same scene. In this case, the fall-off from the flash may help to lessen the halo?

I am not familiar with the 3500xi, it might not be powerful enough to bounce through an Omnibounce (which loses about 3 stops of light). You are right that if you have a ceiling, then the Omnibounce is pointless anyway. That's why I never used one, preferring a bounce card instead.

I velcro the thing to my flash head, with the head pointing 60-90° upwards towards the ceiling, depending on subject distance, never direct.

Using flash direct usually give you the effect you mentioned, try to avoid it. Lowering intensity may not help as the quality of the light is not changed, it's still harsh (but less bright).

If you have a reasonably good lens, shoot wide open, use the slowest shutter speed you can hand hold (e.g. 1/30s), and use the highest speed film you can. I use Press 800 most of the time now.

Rate the film 1/3 to 1/2 stop lower, e.g. use 800 at 640, 400 at 320, etc. DON'T tell the lab. And if you are using Max 400, time to change to Fuji.

Regards
CK

 

[TME]

Originally posted by ckiang


I am not familiar with the 3500xi, it might not be powerful enough to bounce through an Omnibounce (which loses about 3 stops of light). You are right that if you have a ceiling, then the Omnibounce is pointless anyway. That's why I never used one, preferring a bounce card instead.

I velcro the thing to my flash head, with the head pointing 60-90° upwards towards the ceiling, depending on subject distance, never direct.

Using flash direct usually give you the effect you mentioned, try to avoid it. Lowering intensity may not help as the quality of the light is not changed, it's still harsh (but less bright).

If you have a reasonably good lens, shoot wide open, use the slowest shutter speed you can hand hold (e.g. 1/30s), and use the highest speed film you can. I use Press 800 most of the time now.

Rate the film 1/3 to 1/2 stop lower, e.g. use 800 at 640, 400 at 320, etc. DON'T tell the lab. And if you are using Max 400, time to change to Fuji.

Regards
CK

Hey thanks for the tips. Switched to Fuji for at least 20 rolls liaoz! Cheaper and more brilliant colours.

Never trid pushing the film beyond the standard ISO. Pushing 400 to 800, will the grains become too big? I usually use 200 since I do both indoor and outdoor on one roll. (not fixed but I prefer to be safe). So 200 gives very fine grain shots outdoors and decent indoor sharpness. Not sure if using 400 and pushing it up to 800 indoors will screw my shots or not. I not very pro in taking one leh!

 

[ckiang]

Originally posted by TME


Hey thanks for the tips. Switched to Fuji for at least 20 rolls liaoz! Cheaper and more brilliant colours.

Never trid pushing the film beyond the standard ISO. Pushing 400 to 800, will the grains become too big? I usually use 200 since I do both indoor and outdoor on one roll. (not fixed but I prefer to be safe). So 200 gives very fine grain shots outdoors and decent indoor sharpness. Not sure if using 400 and pushing it up to 800 indoors will screw my shots or not. I not very pro in taking one leh!

Don't need to push. Just shoot 200 @ 160, 400 @ 320, 800 @ 640. For indoor, banquet-type shots, I highly recommend Press 800 which has good colour and fine grain. Even when pushed to 1600, the grain is still quite acceptable. Give Press 800 a try if you have the chance to, you'll be impressed.

Regards
CK

 

[TME]

Originally posted by ckiang


Don't need to push. Just shoot 200 @ 160, 400 @ 320, 800 @ 640. For indoor, banquet-type shots, I highly recommend Press 800 which has good colour and fine grain. Even when pushed to 1600, the grain is still quite acceptable. Give Press 800 a try if you have the chance to, you'll be impressed.

Regards
CK

Woohoo!! 800 film how much huh?! Hehehe...never dare to ask before though I see it a lot of times at Peninsular. This Press 800, what brand and how much and where I can get? Thanks!