trying my new toy(TC1.7x II)
- Thread starter jeanie
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Megaweb is correct. He's giving the 35mm film format equivalent taking into account the 1.5X crop factor. 200mm with 1.7TC gives you 340mm which in 35mm film equivalent is 340mm X 1.5 which gives you 510mm.
The CROP Factor of a camera does not MULTIPLY the ZOOM. What it means
is that for your 70-200 which is a FULL FRAME lens, only the center area
of the lens falls onto your D200 CCD.
The rest of the picture falls away into the dark part of the camera
that traps the light.
Lets say there is an attap hut with a small potted plant at one side
in a field.
Lets say you are looking at the Hut in a field with a 200 MM lens
on a Canon 5D which is a FULL FRAME camera.The viewfinder is designed
to show what the CMOS Sensor will see.
So from where you are standing, you see the attap hut and the potted plant
just inside your view with the 200MM lens.
You then put on a 300MM lens and you note that you can only see tha attap
hut and a bit of the potted plant from the same location. Your field of view is
narrowed now compared to using a wider lens like a 200MM.
Now, when you use a canon 20D/Nikon 200D and stand at the same location
with a 200mm Full Frame lens you will only see the attap hut and maybe a bit of the
potted plant cut off. The potted plant is cut off because
the CMOS/CCD of the camera is smaller that what the full frame lens
and this is called the crop factor that MAKES IT LOOK AS THOUGH you are using
a 290-300 MM lens. However its NOT OPTICALLY THE SAME AS A REAL 300MM lens.
For a better technical explanation see:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/dslr-mag.shtml
Allan
Stoned
Senior Member
I think the monopod is actually quite ok for what you want to do, and considering that it's a VR lens, that will help a lot. I have tried a much heavier set-up of a 300/2.8 IS + 2xTC + 1dII, which is much heavier than your current set-up. There weren't much problems handholding the set-up at about 1/200 and with a monopod, 1/20s shots were actually possible! That was the first time I had used an IS lens, so it was quite an experience for me. I used to regularly work with a 70-200/2.8 Non IS with the MKII as well(probably about the same weight or slightly heavier than your set-up?), achieving hand-held shots at 1/80 is not a problem. With a monopod, you could probably get that down to 1/20 or slower.
I'm a rather miniscule guy btw, at 52kg, I'm lighter than quite a number of women. It comes down more to technique than to brute strength, so practice more and I'm sure you'll get it! If you have a hubby/boyfriend, get him to teach you how to fire a rifle, it's exactly the same(or close enough). I think a tripod is a bit much because it's quite cumbersome to carry one around especially at a place like the zoo where much walking is required. It will hamper composition as well, which animals may not always stick around for. More importantly, it doesn't solve the root of the problem, which is user technique. So train train train!
If you're really interested in wildlife, the big mama primes would probably be the way to go. From what friends who shoot animals/birds tell me, longer is always better, so get the longest you can afford. Personally, I found the 600mm lens as easy to use as a 50mm prime, for the photography basics that apply to the usage of the 50mm prime also apply to producing great images with a 600mm lens, so I'd beg to differ that primes hinder composition. I have never missed a shot because of a prime's lack of the ability to zoom.
To be absolutely frank, I find zoom lenses cumbersome and unnecessary, but some people swear by it, so it's completely up to personal preference.
I'm a rather miniscule guy btw, at 52kg, I'm lighter than quite a number of women. It comes down more to technique than to brute strength, so practice more and I'm sure you'll get it! If you have a hubby/boyfriend, get him to teach you how to fire a rifle, it's exactly the same(or close enough). I think a tripod is a bit much because it's quite cumbersome to carry one around especially at a place like the zoo where much walking is required. It will hamper composition as well, which animals may not always stick around for. More importantly, it doesn't solve the root of the problem, which is user technique. So train train train!
If you're really interested in wildlife, the big mama primes would probably be the way to go. From what friends who shoot animals/birds tell me, longer is always better, so get the longest you can afford. Personally, I found the 600mm lens as easy to use as a 50mm prime, for the photography basics that apply to the usage of the 50mm prime also apply to producing great images with a 600mm lens, so I'd beg to differ that primes hinder composition. I have never missed a shot because of a prime's lack of the ability to zoom.
To be absolutely frank, I find zoom lenses cumbersome and unnecessary, but some people swear by it, so it's completely up to personal preference.
yuanseng1983
New Member
Wow, this sheds new light to alot of us here who used to think that it meant a 1.5x magnification.
Another point to note is that since you are using
the 70-200 VR + Monopod, you may want to flip
the VR switch to 'ACTIVE' which is meant for use
from moving cars.
With a monopod on the ground the only
movement would be side to side motion and not
up/down. That could improve your low shutter
VR experiences.
Allan
sharkspin
Senior Member
Jeanie.....think of it as a early X'mas present for yourself.....then no more clubbing, shopping, dining out for awhile...
Good choice of lens...:thumbsup:
Jeanie.....think of it as a early X'mas present for yourself.....then no more clubbing, shopping, dining out for awhile...
Good choice of lens...:thumbsup:
i dun go clubbing one lah:sticktong
shopping yes lah!but already cutting down n spending quite abit on photography.
now my worry is that me san1 feng1 zhong1 re4 du4(3 minute fever), then in the end all white elephants....
dont tempt me pls.i so nearly told the shop "OK,i'll get one"....:cry:
sharkspin
Senior Member
Buy First...Worry Abt it Later.....
I'm sure there are lots of CSer waiting for your posting when u decide it has become a "White Elephant"....I don't think you'll lose much for such lenses...
Pamper yourself to a early X'mas Girl....
Buy First...Worry Abt it Later.....
I'm sure there are lots of CSer waiting for your posting when u decide it has become a "White Elephant"....I don't think you'll lose much for such lenses...
Pamper yourself to a early X'mas Girl....
is that why singapore's bankruptcy % is rising?:bsmilie:
sharkspin
Senior Member
Well....then u gotta make the best with yr present setup....like they say "no fish...prawns also can"....happy shooting....remember the birds are not there to model for and amuse us...be kind to animals...
Well....then u gotta make the best with yr present setup....like they say "no fish...prawns also can"....happy shooting....remember the birds are not there to model for and amuse us...be kind to animals...
wah.dun make it sound like i am torturing some animals lei.hehehe
ok lah!offtopic liao!:sticktong
Luv4nature
Senior Member
guys, are these acceptable pictures?
be frank.
if it sucks, it sucks.
If you want frank opinion, then I'll say these are technically "quite acceptable" pictures.
However, in terms of the "soul" element, they are quite lacking. How to turn the works from those that are "for record purpose" into something that "wow" people is the most chanllenging task faced by most photographers.
Also to be fair, the animals in our zoo are quite static and lifeless, so it's rather hard to make them look like they are roaming happily in their habitat. So with such constraints, all the more the photographers need to frame the photos tighter, and also to be very creative in the composition of the pictures to make them look interesting, or to use slow speed/ pan the subject to create motion, etc.
p.s. been to your dreamland before...
how do one tell if unsharpness is due to handshake? I just wanna see how to evaluate pics. Cos, we can tell that the pics are not as sharp as they could be..but how to differentiate if its due to handshake or poor optics?
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