Is the lens really so dismal at f/2.8? IMHO, f/2.8 does not offer *very* shallow DoF. I've shot with my 24-70 wide open on events because of the very reason of flash not being allowed, and DoF is the least of my problems in most shots, except usually just the group shots where people are in two or more rows.
Tokina 28-70 F2.6-2.8 AT-X Pro II User Report
- Thread starter La Fontaine
- Start date
Is the lens really so dismal at f/2.8? IMHO, f/2.8 does not offer *very* shallow DoF. I've shot with my 24-70 wide open on events because of the very reason of flash not being allowed, and DoF is the least of my problems in most shots, except usually just the group shots where people are in two or more rows.
La Fontaine
New Member
This lens at F2.8 - well, when I first got this lens, I did try and just like almost everyone, I would shoot and check the centre and corner. I guess, in real photos, it cannot be that bad la. I will try to do a few test shots just to find out for myself and come back to report here.
DOF depends on many factors, even at F2.8, at 24mm, or at 70mm, be it at 3m or at 6m, there is a vast difference.
Definitely, but under even the most extreme real world applications, w.r.t event photography, even at 70mm, f/2.8, you aren't gona get dangerously shallow DoF.
La Fontaine
New Member
Well, frankly, I have done many events with this lens, and hardly shoot at F2.8. I will definitely try out more at F2.8. Afterall, it cannot be that bad at F2.8.
If anyone were to ask me for a sample pic at F2.8, I cannot find any to show, short of using a teddy bear as a model to shoot some test shots at home.
smile_gerard
Senior Member
I too have this lens... And its great. Got it for only $120 a few years back. Cuz i bought it from the company i worked for then. They had 3 identical copies. Very nice range for events. But definitely not what you want for group photos. Its at its sharpest when shot at 50mm. Very well worth the money. Next to get is the 12 - 24 
Now, to look for the 28-70 :bsmilie:It isn't very fair to compare their el-cheapo kit lens with a pro-designated lens from Tokina. That's like comparing the build quality of a Chery QQ and a BMW 7-series. :bsmilie:
La Fontaine
New Member
I suppose the correct comparison would be to do it with the Tamron 28-75F2.8 and the Sigma 28-70F28.
Well, I do not have a first hand feel of the Sigma. I have used both the Tamron and now having the Tokina. The Tokina feels like it is designed for 99years, good enough to pass on to my future grandson. The Tamron feels like a plastic toy. BTW, for the Sigma EX range, the built quality is pretty good enough to me. I do have an EX in my drycab.
And now, talking about some of the Nikkor kit lens - so much plastic that even the lens mount is plastic! But that doesn't mean that the picture quality sucks. I love the kit lens AFS18-70 that came with the D70. Still working great after 5years.
I concur,the 18-70 is a very impressive kit lens.
smile_gerard
Senior Member
Its a lovely lens.... But i just sold it yesterday lol.... It was replaced by a 17-50 tammy
we r in the same boat... no regrets i should say! one of my :thumbsup: buy :bsmilie:
i, too, agree with most users here that Tokina lens r really 'bulit like a tank' literally. good solid metal feel all around!
no regrets owning it! good writeup u've got there La Fontaine! keep it up!
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La Fontaine
New Member
So, we are more or less satisfied that this lens can perform well enough from F4 onwards all the way to F16. However, folks are not quite sure as to how this lens performs at F2.6-2.8. Well, I am also not quite sure myself.
I guess the next thing to do is to shoot a few shots during my next outing at max aperture to find out and share it here. One simple way is to shoot some landscapes at a distance of more than say 30m. Well, that is simple enough. But then, what about the performance at closer range like 3 to 5m. Now, that is more difficult as I do not have a ready target to shoot at that distance, and that target has to be more or less flat, as we do not want DOF issue to come into the picture. However, I guess it is much easier to fix something onto a wall and shoot at 1.2 to 1.5m away, with the cam mounted on a tripod. Well, I hope I have time to do it soon........
I guess the next thing to do is to shoot a few shots during my next outing at max aperture to find out and share it here. One simple way is to shoot some landscapes at a distance of more than say 30m. Well, that is simple enough. But then, what about the performance at closer range like 3 to 5m. Now, that is more difficult as I do not have a ready target to shoot at that distance, and that target has to be more or less flat, as we do not want DOF issue to come into the picture. However, I guess it is much easier to fix something onto a wall and shoot at 1.2 to 1.5m away, with the cam mounted on a tripod. Well, I hope I have time to do it soon........
La Fontaine
New Member
Just learnt that this lens is based on the legendary Angenieux lens formula. It was said that Angenieux gave up on SLR lenses and sold the formula to Tokina. Tokina improved the mechanicals of the lens, like the AF and zooming mechanism, the body design and the swell trade mark clever focus ring clutch. And voila, this fabulous lens from Tokina.
Angenieux is a French opitical company who has only produced one or two zoom lenses for the SLR market. It concentrated its effort in the industrial arena like some military application, for cine camera and so forth. Maybe, that is less competitive and has got greater margin. Well, the French have got great ideas, but they are not apt at bring it to the hands of consumers.
Angenieux is a French opitical company who has only produced one or two zoom lenses for the SLR market. It concentrated its effort in the industrial arena like some military application, for cine camera and so forth. Maybe, that is less competitive and has got greater margin. Well, the French have got great ideas, but they are not apt at bring it to the hands of consumers.
La Fontaine
New Member
While waiting at the lounge at BM for my car to be serviced, I got some time to do up the pic taken last week in the ML model shoot.
Just to make this user report more or less complete, I have made about 10shots with this lens at F2.8. Here is one shot :
Out of 5similar shots, I have chosen one to show here. Well, the other 4 ain't as sharp due to various factors like focus error, camera shake, subject movement and shallow depth of field. The thing is that when you look at 100%, you are able to see some of the flaws that are otherwise not noticeable at normal size picture.
Also, I would like to emphasize that there is some differences between shooting under practical conditions and shooting under ideal conditions. To start with, I shot hand held, and subject might not be perfectly still, lighting might not be ideal studio lights.
Conclusion: I would say that I do not hesitate to go to F2.8 when I need to in low light situation or when I wanna to get enough bokeh with larger aperture. For almost all practical purposes, it is largely good enough. I shouldn't have limited myself to F4 all this while. Well, this is called pushing the envelop, and get out of your comfort zone. I should have done this as soon as I got this lens. Anyhow, it ain't too late la. I did this test to find out for myself and also share what I found out with fellow CSers.
Just to make this user report more or less complete, I have made about 10shots with this lens at F2.8. Here is one shot :
Out of 5similar shots, I have chosen one to show here. Well, the other 4 ain't as sharp due to various factors like focus error, camera shake, subject movement and shallow depth of field. The thing is that when you look at 100%, you are able to see some of the flaws that are otherwise not noticeable at normal size picture.
Also, I would like to emphasize that there is some differences between shooting under practical conditions and shooting under ideal conditions. To start with, I shot hand held, and subject might not be perfectly still, lighting might not be ideal studio lights.
Conclusion: I would say that I do not hesitate to go to F2.8 when I need to in low light situation or when I wanna to get enough bokeh with larger aperture. For almost all practical purposes, it is largely good enough. I shouldn't have limited myself to F4 all this while. Well, this is called pushing the envelop, and get out of your comfort zone. I should have done this as soon as I got this lens. Anyhow, it ain't too late la. I did this test to find out for myself and also share what I found out with fellow CSers.
La Fontaine
New Member
After some further processing of the same model shoot, I found that shooting at F2.8 gave me somewhat shallow DOF. Not only that, at times, it is not critically sharp when you pixel peep. But that ain't a big problem if you do not print that big for commercial purposes. For practical pictures, the sharpness is more than what I would need.
Here is another example - at F2.8, I got one eye pretty sharp and the other not as sharp. I am not sure if the DOF could be that shallow to make that difference as the model was facing me.
Here is another example - at F2.8, I got one eye pretty sharp and the other not as sharp. I am not sure if the DOF could be that shallow to make that difference as the model was facing me.
La Fontaine
New Member
Before I forget, someone PMed me to ask about getting a used copy that is less than perfect.
Firstly, feeling the AF/MF ring, there is some sort of grinding noise or something like that. Mine works smoothly and quietly - it feels like the mechanism is running on micro-ballbearings, feeling so very smooth.
Secondly, he finds lots of dust in the glass elements. This is strange as this lens is a constant length zoom so that nothing moves outside. As a result, there should be hardly any dust inside after like 6 to 8years of average amateur use.
So, my advice to him is not to buy that lens. Just wait for another copy to appear in the B&S. I have this principle when I buy - never compromise, be it some clothing or some other gear. And then, never buy in a hurry and regret later.
Firstly, feeling the AF/MF ring, there is some sort of grinding noise or something like that. Mine works smoothly and quietly - it feels like the mechanism is running on micro-ballbearings, feeling so very smooth.
Secondly, he finds lots of dust in the glass elements. This is strange as this lens is a constant length zoom so that nothing moves outside. As a result, there should be hardly any dust inside after like 6 to 8years of average amateur use.
So, my advice to him is not to buy that lens. Just wait for another copy to appear in the B&S. I have this principle when I buy - never compromise, be it some clothing or some other gear. And then, never buy in a hurry and regret later.
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