telezoom lens recommedations..


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wind30

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Hi guys I am looking for a tele lens for my D7D.

The lens I have now is

minolta 28-75 f2.8
sigma 20mm f1.8

Looking for a tele zoom lens for travelling.

Potential contenders

1) constant f2.8 lens 2nd hand. Probably too heavy.. so dun like. But can get a 2x teleconvertor and get 400mm f5.6. I have seen 2nd units selling for like $450 which is like pretty cheap.

2) variable aperture lens. Lighter, up to 300mm. The sigma 75-300mm APO MACRO II looks quite good. had one for my D70. or should I get the minolta 75-300 D, similar in price but specswise looks poorer...

3) is there any constant f4 telezoom lens for minolta?
 

sigma 100-300 f4 or tokina 100-300 f4
both quite heavy, i have the tokina one, weighs about 1.6kg?
 

1.6 kg :bigeyes:

That is heavier the the f2.8 lens. I thinking of something 80-200mm f4, then can be lightweight...
 

wind30 said:
1.6 kg :bigeyes:

That is heavier the the f2.8 lens. I thinking of something 80-200mm f4, then can be lightweight...

Take a look at Minolta 70-210/4 then :bsmilie:
 

wind30 said:
2) variable aperture lens. Lighter, up to 300mm. The sigma 75-300mm APO MACRO II looks quite good. had one for my D70. or should I get the minolta 75-300 D, similar in price but specswise looks poorer..

I have the KM one, not too bad in terms of sharpness.. since if it's for travelling, you have to take note it hunts alot in focusing; not very good in sneaking photos on natives. However, for taking photos on non-stationery subjects, should do just well.
 

ya,

I want to do candid shots overseas so a fast AF would be nice.

my experience with the sigma 75-300 mm on the D70 is that the focus also hunts a LOT on the 300mm, mainly due to the fact that the whole viewfinder is shaking all the time..

like that most prob get the sigma. Cheap and light and got 1:2 macro.
 

Since you're using for travel, suggest looking at the new Tamron 18-200mm. It should come in handy.
 

spurssy said:
I have the KM one, not too bad in terms of sharpness.. since if it's for travelling, you have to take note it hunts alot in focusing; not very good in sneaking photos on natives. However, for taking photos on non-stationery subjects, should do just well.

I think u mean stationary?
 

wind30 said:
ya,

I want to do candid shots overseas so a fast AF would be nice.

my experience with the sigma 75-300 mm on the D70 is that the focus also hunts a LOT on the 300mm, mainly due to the fact that the whole viewfinder is shaking all the time..

like that most prob get the sigma. Cheap and light and got 1:2 macro.

The viewfinder shaking should not affect the AF... why should it? The viewfinder is passive. Or are you saying that from viewfinder u see the image shaking cos the AF is trying to lock focus?
 

TME said:
The viewfinder shaking should not affect the AF... why should it? The viewfinder is passive. Or are you saying that from viewfinder u see the image shaking cos the AF is trying to lock focus?

if you cannot keep the AF crosshair stationary on the subject, that will affect your focusing right?
 

wind30 said:
if you cannot keep the AF crosshair stationary on the subject, that will affect your focusing right?


But that is due to the poor handholding technique or lack of stabilisation and not due to the poor AF of the lens.

U mentioned that the AF hunts a lot "mainly due to the fact that the whole viewfinder is shaking all the time."... that means the shaking is responsible for the hunting... which cannot be... even if the camera shakes, u should still be able to lock focus...

I can lock focus at f/6.7 at 400mm on a D7D with antishake on, handheld. My 100-400 APO hunts at night but not in the day. But even at night, it is able to lock focus after a little hunting... and even on a tripod, it will hunt. So I dun understand the part about how the shaking of the camera leads to hunting by lens??? :dunno:
 

wind30 said:
if you cannot keep the AF crosshair stationary on the subject, that will affect your focusing right?
yes, you are right. try shaking your head and see if you can read the newspaper or magazine.
 

deslim27 said:
Take a look at Minolta 70-210/4 then :bsmilie:

I cant find tis old lens in SG ley???

End up getting a Sigma 75-210mm f2.8-f3.5 ....not too bad..

Have anyone saw a Minolta 70-210mm f4 around?? in SG.. thanks
 

GENO said:
I cant find tis old lens in SG ley???

End up getting a Sigma 75-210mm f2.8-f3.5 ....not too bad..

Have anyone saw a Minolta 70-210mm f4 around?? in SG.. thanks
wah, are you on a buying spree??? :bigeyes:
 

GENO said:
I cant find tis old lens in SG ley???

End up getting a Sigma 75-210mm f2.8-f3.5 ....not too bad..

Have anyone saw a Minolta 70-210mm f4 around?? in SG.. thanks

43211107.jpg


Edit : Forget the text.. hee

I saw 2 piece online.. but can't remember from adorama.com or bhphoto.com
 

There are about 7 sets of...... 70-210f4 on auction.....

wow!!!!

rgds,
sulhan
 

Drudkh said:
yes, you are right. try shaking your head and see if you can read the newspaper or magazine.


But that's because u can't hold your head still, nothing wrong with your eyes... if a lens hunt, then it's probably not bright enough or the body's AF isn't as good. But inability to focus cos u can't keep the camera body still enough has nothing to do with the quality of the lens... if the lens hunts, even if u stick it on a tripod, it will still hunt. At least I think that makes sense....
 

I just got myself a Sigma 70-210mm f/2.8 for $400.... is 2nd hand but looks brand new.... quite pleased with it at the moment... thanks for sniperj.... spent a better part of an hour not to go over to the dark side.... maybe he will buy the 7D and we will have one more user.... kekeke :thumbsup:
 

I WAS thinking of getting that from sniperJ too :)

Is it very heavy? Should be right? How fast is the focusing compared to lens like 70-300mm f4-f5.6??

no lah, I really think that the focusing mechanism relies on you keeping the focusing point relatively stable. I googled it and here is what I found

http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/autofocus3.htm

you need contrast and a relatively stable image for the image processor to analyse and find the point of maximum contrast. Basically the camera just search through all the focus length and find the point of highest contrast/sharpness. BUT this is assuming that the image must remain on the SAME SUBJECT so that the camera can do a proper comparison between different focal length. If you keep shaking, how the camera focus?
 

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