The manual that comes with the flash (and camera) is like a manual that comes with a new car, it teaches you where the controls are but doesn't teach you how to drive.
If you're looking for how to do flash photography ANY book or website about flashes can teach you that...http://strobist.blogspot.com/ is good place for that info.
There's also Olympus Digital School...although they use larger strobes rather than the Oly flash (since the "school" is sponsored by that particular strobe manufacturer), there's lots of great lighting advice there: http://www.olympusdigitalschool.com/...ons/index.html
"got the Sunpak 622 and the OT-1D adaptor. It's a monster.
Need to know if I can put the OT-1D on the Olympus E1 or the E520.
I know I won't get any kind of TTL, just manual, which is fine. But I need to know that it won't fry my Olympus with any high voltage spikes on the flash contacts.
The OT-1D was meant for the Olympus OM1. If the OM1 expects a high voltage for the flash trigger, then it's a no go for the E1, which I believe is triggered via low voltage (around 6V I believe).
There is also a sync cord that comes with the 622. Seems to be able to plug into the E1. However, need advise that it is safe to do so. I don't expect TTL out of this, just need a triggering mechanism."
Just wondering...for those who have actually assessed....what is the IQ difference between the 14-54 2.8-3.5 versus the 12-60 2.8-4. The way I see it, the 14-54 zoomed out, is more advantageous compared to the 12-60. Obviously, the 12-60 is better at the wider end. But overall....what is the word? I have read one person say the 12-60 is sharper than the 14-54.
And BTW...this is not a "Should I buy the 12-60 or the 14-54 question?"
I'm having the problem with the White balance. Please kindly help me.
this is the problem:
1. When im shooting indoor, the white balance gets off way the color, making the skintone look like ****.
2. I have already tried using auto, still the result big ****.
3. Tried also the preset. Still no good. either the color is too pale or too like cartoon.
Please kindly advise me on tips on how to maximize the color at indoor shooting. Because at outdoor shoot Olympus is unbeatable.
Oh Btw. My gear is the E 510, 14 - 54 with Hoya UV, and the 50 - 200 with BW uv filter.
Since then I upgraded to E-3, and reading the posts created a kind of curiosity in me to measure the shutter lag of E-3 the same way I did with the E-500. Some of the text below is copy & paste, since it can be applied even this time, although I corrected here some factual errors.
The way I did may not be flawless, but it gives me some indications anyway. Here are my figures:
Time was measured by waiting until the pointer was at 0 and then I shot about 100 pics with each setting. I used ISO 1600 to get good shutter speed. IS was off as well.
Manual focus, release button halfway pressed: 0.05s (yes, 50 millisecond). I guess here it mostly depends on reaction speed. Focusing time is not checked. This measurement turned out to be wrong when I did it with the E-500, but this time it is right because it is calculated on a large number of averaged shots. In this mode, none of the times were longer than 0.1 second, and the calculated time I got is 0.05 seconds.
I know they're not very comparable, but I'm just wondering which one would be better with my setup.
I have an E-410 with a ZD 14-42mm and a ZD 40-150mm... and I find that using the 40-150mm, I cannot reach very far... e.g. shooting birds flying over water while I'm in a cruise ship. I just wonder whether Sigma at 200mm would suffice?
If anyone has sample photos taken with the Sigma, that would be great as well...
Can anyone advise me if it is possible to use Olympus SLR in cold country? What are the measures to prevent freezing and moisture inside the lens? I am using E300 and will be going London which current weather is between 7-15C.
I just received my first radio trigger which I bought via eBay. It is a 4 channel type, called YONGNUO. It seems to work fine for what I intend to do, except for one thing. I have many old flashes, and since I have been around using SLRs for about 35 years, I have several old, fully functional, which are of high trigger voltage type. I havent checked before hitting the Buy now button and I missed the information about the trigger only supporting low trigger voltage type of flashes. Anyway, as soon as I realized that, I tried out a mod, which works fine, so I made a permanent modification to make sure it can be used with any flash.
The mod is a very simple one. I started by measuring the output pulse.
It gives a 700mV 120ms long pulse, so I figured it will work just fine for triggering a triac.
I de-soldered the centre contact and in between the GND and the centre pin contact I added a triac and connected the gate to the circuit board contact where the centre contact was before. The triac is an L401E5 type, I chose this one because I had one on my desk, but almost any one would work as long as it can stand the current and the voltage. The one I used is a 400V 1A type.
Extract from another thread. As a newbie to photography, would like to know when and why for the different formats offered in the camera.
A bit from my own recent holiday, I started in RAW but ran out of storage space after 3 days...then I switch to JPEG and limiting myself in using RAW.
The basic, that we all know, is that we loose details Jpeg with each save. irregardless of the compression. RAW, is large file size and sometimes slow in writing to memory card. Sometimes we can actually lose a shooting moment because the camera is flushing the memory. TIFF, actually i have never shot in this format. When should we use this and why.
Experts, please share you views. and NO FLAMES please.
was out on sea today again with my E3 and 12-60mm..so it got its usual splash of seawater..upon reaching home..i rinsed my E3 and 12-60 as usual, but this time, i saw water in the lens..is my lens leaking or spoilt?i did not notice this before..it looks like there is a layer trapping the water but im not sure.. below are some pics..my cam and lens is sitting in my dry cab now..should i go to the repair centre?i've not tried the lens yet as my battery is drained out..
you can see a "water ring" at the centre of the lens..n some water collected at the bototm ot the lens:
ths outside of the lens was already dry,water inside
Low light, ever changing stage lighting, action sequences... all challenges to the E-system, I'm at about 30 metres from the stage but with the E-3 and the 12-60mm lens, not only did the camera manages to focus all the time, in fact the white balance works out pretty well too, the colours came out very nicely. At ISO3200, the images are actually not bad, but it is even better after running it through Noiseware.... I'm very pleased with the results.
Wanted to see for myself whether there is any difference in IQ and sharpness between the venerable 14-54 Mk I and II, 12-60, and the 14-42.
Setup :
E3 on tripod
USB control to OS 2
FL36R Wireless Flash bouncing off ceiling
IS off
Anti-shock 2s
Unless otherwise specified, all S-AF
f 3.5
Shutter 1/100 s
The E-30 has been out for a while now, and up till today, I only had a few minutes' "flirting time" with the E-30 and the 14-54MkII.
Now that I have the set up with me, I thought it might be good to "let the pictures do the talking" and share the images shot on the E-30.
Note : Up till 2009.05.07, I did not realise that Silkypix has updated their RAW developer to support E-30, and the early set of images were shot on jpg and cropped (with some touch up of course).
Here are some of the pictures that I have recently shot with the E-30 and the 14-54MkII lens.
DAY ONE
Still a little unfamiliar with the new functions and I did not want to read the manual on purpose, to see if I can make sense out of the new camera. Fortunately, there aren't that many dramatic changes on the camera and menu thus everything is as usual, intuitive.
(I have never read the manual much since the E-1 days, it has been intuitive).
14-54 mm Mark 2 and Ring Flash The 14-54 Mark 2 cannot fix the Ring Flash unlike the old 14-54. Does anyone know if there is a way of attaching the ring flash on the Mark 2 using step rings or other forms of adaptors? I read somewhere very vaguely about using a E1 accessory but could not find it on e-emporium. Thanks.
I've been reading about being able to set up a "My Mode" that takes 5 shots at different EVs for the E-3here and am wondering if the E-30 can do the same?
- - -
Yep, that's bracketing.
I think it should work as well on the E-30, though I never tried on my E-3.
Why not try turn EV bracketing on and save it under My Mode 1/2?
