Soft Images

[strauss]

From the pic... it does look like there is enough light in that environment... so the main thing would be to push up the ISO to 400 or 640 to maybe a max of 800. When focusing, I normally use a single point (I'm one of those who only need 1 focusing point) and I focus on the person's eye.

Gerald, thanks for yr input. That is an interesting comment. I was thinking all along if a single focus pt would make it sharper or vice versa. Single pt does help if you have alot of objects in the way, though.

 

[strauss]

Personally I feel that 1 focus point seems to be easier for newbies like me. Just focus the point to where you want to be in focus, hold half shutter and re-compose the shot. IMHO, a flash wouldn't help in this scenerio as the subject is too far away. Increasing the ISO seems to be the only solution now unless you change the lens to a bigger aperture ones.

Thanks, Melvin. Any inputs on the range of the flash?

 

[strauss]

dude what im guessing is that if your pictures appear "soft" it could be, there is something wrong with the afs. it could possibly be front or back focusing. that means it focuses on a plane either furthur infront of or behind your intended target. however since your arent using something like 3.5 to 5.6 then it shouldnt be so obvious cause the dof should make up for it. however best to go get it checked and calibrated. why dont you try using another lense and see if problem persists if so then shld be the lense.

as far as i can see dont think its handshake. it looks more out of focus. but then again sharpness of the 18-200 isnt exactly something to shout about as well. you could get a cheap prime like a 50 1.8 and check out the diff. lol.

Stupidbloke (no disrespect intended :embrass, that was exactly what I was worried initially, that this is inherent in the lens. No kidding...I was planning to get the 50mm f1.8.

 

[strauss]

The 18-200 issin't inferior to a point that it gives you such soft images. Many of us use it for travelling and shooting with great results.

Hi strauss try to shoot with a higher shutter speed and see if you can have sharper images. Likely too slow a shutter speed. ( Unless all your shots even at higher shutter speeds are soft as well )

Ryan

Hi Giantcanopy, thanks. I will pay more attention to my shutter speed.

 

[geraldkhoo]

Hi Strauss... the 18-200 VR is a great lens. It was the 1st lens (outside of the kit lens) that I purchased, and I shot quite a few events using that lens, and it was great to use! I have never found it not to be sharp... and the VR saved me many times I have since sold it to buy fast lenses, but I do miss the convenience of the 18-200.

Anyway, you can do your own test to determine if the focusing of the 18-200 is alright.

Go to http://focustestchart.com/ and download the test chart and read through the instructions on how to test the lens.

 

[strauss]

Yup.. That's why VR/tripod can help to reduce/eliminate camera shake but it can do nothing to prevent your live subject from moving and getting himself/herself/itself blurred in the image. ;p

To freeze usual human motion u need ard at least 1/60

I think with a external flash it'll be much better. Apparently the stage is already lit, but maybe because the subject is still quite far.

You feel doesn't mean camera will see in that way..... each camera model has its light metering system, the more pro is the camera, the better is the light metering system...

You can check the level of light metered by the camera in the view finder or LCD.

Many parameters determine the sharpness of pics....

sorry,noob here. You mean by increasing ISO will make ur pic sharp?cos I feel that the environment of the pic seems to be enuff light....

Folks...what if light does not allow 1/60 shutter speed, ISO already set to 800(beyond which it became too grainy) and subject is too far away ... zooms to focal length 200mm (not sure if flash can reach). Probably only can use tripod to get a sharp pic?

 

[strauss]

Hi Strauss... the 18-200 VR is a great lens. It was the 1st lens (outside of the kit lens) that I purchased, and I shot quite a few events using that lens, and it was great to use! I have never found it not to be sharp... and the VR saved me many times I have since sold it to buy fast lenses, but I do miss the convenience of the 18-200.

Anyway, you can do your own test to determine if the focusing of the 18-200 is alright.

Go to http://focustestchart.com/ and download the test chart and read through the instructions on how to test the lens.

Hey...this has good information on focusing... thanks for the lead, Gerald.

 

[geraldkhoo]

Folks...what if light does not allow 1/60 shutter speed, ISO already set to 800(beyond which it became too grainy) and subject is too far away ... zooms to focal length 200mm (not sure if flash can reach). Probably only can use tripod to get a sharp pic?

Well... based on your the scenario you are suggesting... the tripod may not help because if the shutter speeds slows down, any movement from the subject would also cause a blur... so even if you have a tripod, if the shutter speed goes to 1/25 lets say, and the person is constantly moving, you will still get a blurred image. So, there are a few options:

1. Move nearer to the subject + use a flash that can throw the distance you are shooting.
2. Get a fast lens.
3. Get a D3 which can handle high ISO well.

If you shoot with adequate lighting, the 18-200 is not a problem, but it does become a problem if you shoot indoors or inadequate lighting... and that was the reason I sold off my 18-200 to get fast lenses. I also personally dislike to shoot at 200mm handheld because the chances of a blurred image goes up a lot as I should shoot at about 1/200 sec shutter (I don't have a VR lens), and so I learn to move as close to the subject as possible.

 

[strauss]

thanks for the tip...

 

[stupidbloke]

hmmm with regard to the sb 800. i myself wanted to purchase one. but i looked at the price and i went OH MY GOSH!!! well 800 definitely is a pro flash loads of features. (correct me if i am wrong here) the d80 (like mine) cant really fully utilise them. example, d80 is 3fps right. i personally felt i am not going to shoot at that speed all the time and thus i did not require the 800s ability to recycle so quickly.

so i bought the 600 instead and i havent found it inadequate as of yet. (even power wise) im guessing you dont earn from your shots? (just guessing). i would safely say the 600 is worth the money.

 

[canonite_sg]

sorry,noob here. You mean by increasing ISO will make ur pic sharp?cos I feel that the environment of the pic seems to be enuff light....

undergrd... from my understanding.. (newbie here.. only 3 months old)..

Exif info : ISO 200 200mm F5.6 1/25s on 18-200mm F3.5-5.6

currently the TS is using 200mm focal length and the basic rule for handholding is 1/focal length (to include the crop factor of the camera also, i am told).. so his shutter speed should be 1/200 at the very minimum.. if the lens is VR.. the compensation is perhaps 1 or 2 stops down, which should be 1/100 (1stop) or 1/50 (2stop).. since his current shutter is only 1/25, he would have to compensate by

1. opening the aperture 1 stop more, however it is not possible as the aperture is at its widest already at 200mm (18mm-f3.5 | 200mm-f5.6)

2. increasing the ISO 1 stop more to ISO400 to give him at least a 1/50 shutter speed

ps : not familiar with Nikons .. and also still trying to understand the 1 stop thing.

 

[canonite_sg]

Thanks, Squid. I'm planning to buy the SB800. It'll b my 1st flash ... will have alot of learning to do!

Folks...what if light does not allow 1/60 shutter speed, ISO already set to 800(beyond which it became too grainy) and subject is too far away ... zooms to focal length 200mm (not sure if flash can reach). Probably only can use tripod to get a sharp pic?

motion blur from subject may still occur..

 

[strauss]

wow...CanonG9...very informative analysis...thanks!

 

[strauss]

motion blur from subject may still occur..

undergrd... from my understanding.. (newbie here.. only 3 months old)..

Exif info : ISO 200 200mm F5.6 1/25s on 18-200mm F3.5-5.6

currently the TS is using 200mm focal length and the basic rule for handholding is 1/focal length (to include the crop factor of the camera also, i am told).. so his shutter speed should be 1/200 at the very minimum.. if the lens is VR.. the compensation is perhaps 1 or 2 stops down, which should be 1/100 (1stop) or 1/50 (2stop).. since his current shutter is only 1/25, he would have to compensate by

1. opening the aperture 1 stop more, however it is not possible as the aperture is at its widest already at 200mm (18mm-f3.5 | 200mm-f5.6)

2. increasing the ISO 1 stop more to ISO400 to give him at least a 1/50 shutter speed

ps : not familiar with Nikons .. and also still trying to understand the 1 stop thing.

hmmm with regard to the sb 800. i myself wanted to purchase one. but i looked at the price and i went OH MY GOSH!!! well 800 definitely is a pro flash loads of features. (correct me if i am wrong here) the d80 (like mine) cant really fully utilise them. example, d80 is 3fps right. i personally felt i am not going to shoot at that speed all the time and thus i did not require the 800s ability to recycle so quickly.

so i bought the 600 instead and i havent found it inadequate as of yet. (even power wise) im guessing you dont earn from your shots? (just guessing). i would safely say the 600 is worth the money.

yes...u're right....arrgggh....now i'm divided again...

 

[p7m13]

1/25s for 200mm is definitely too slow for focal length of 200mm. You should take the pic at least at 1/200s or 1/300s to be safe.

 

[undergrd]

undergrd... from my understanding.. (newbie here.. only 3 months old)..

Exif info : ISO 200 200mm F5.6 1/25s on 18-200mm F3.5-5.6

currently the TS is using 200mm focal length and the basic rule for handholding is 1/focal length (to include the crop factor of the camera also, i am told).. so his shutter speed should be 1/200 at the very minimum.. if the lens is VR.. the compensation is perhaps 1 or 2 stops down, which should be 1/100 (1stop) or 1/50 (2stop).. since his current shutter is only 1/25, he would have to compensate by

1. opening the aperture 1 stop more, however it is not possible as the aperture is at its widest already at 200mm (18mm-f3.5 | 200mm-f5.6)

2. increasing the ISO 1 stop more to ISO400 to give him at least a 1/50 shutter speed

ps : not familiar with Nikons .. and also still trying to understand the 1 stop thing.

hey thanks, i learn sthing new...

 

[canonite_sg]

hey thanks, i learn sthing new...

erhh.. i hope it's right though.. i am still figuring how the stops thingy work for my camera.. whether to count mine as 1/2 or 1/3 stops

 

[airfins]

Most of the lens sweet spot ( giving the sharpest image) is at the f8, check what is the sweet spot for your lens at Lens review.

 

[undergrd]

Most of the lens sweet spot ( giving the sharpest image) is at the f8, check what is the sweet spot for your lens at Lens review.

which len review website tell the sweet spot of the len?any recommendations ?

 

[Squid]

which len review website tell the sweet spot of the len?any recommendations ?

Try http://www.photozone.de and http://www.slrgear.com as these websites come with measured results