[ Showcase ] - Images from Olympus Micro 4/3 cameras

[shiosaki]

some other shots on my e-pm1. please feel free to give me some tips, thanks!
all at ISO200

ISO200 28mm f/5.6

ISO200 40mm f/5.5

ISO200 14mm f/5.6

 

[albertri]

Finally my A-Mount to m4/3 adaptor (correct one w/o the aperture control) had arrived! now I can test my Samyang 8mm f3.5 . I have another A-Mount - m4/3 with aperture control but with the aperture pin it prevent me from using the it to the Samyang Lens as the pin is hitting the back plane of the lens mount :-(

here's some sample shots all taken using EPL2 + FE 8mm f3.5

1/1000
ISO200
F8 or f11 cant remember

1/2500
ISO200
F8 or f11 cant remember

1/3200
ISO200
F8 or f11 cant remember

 

[albertri]

some other shots on my e-pm1. please feel free to give me some tips, thanks!
all at ISO200

Can you share the full exif info? like aperture setting and ISO and what lens did you use to take these notice the photos are a bit soft specially the last pix. it seems you have focus this shot to the water or those floater markers.

 

[shiosaki]

Can you share the full exif info? like aperture setting and ISO and what lens did you use to take these notice the photos are a bit soft specially the last pix. it seems you have focus this shot to the water or those floater markers.

hello will update them later, but can you tell me what you mean by soft?

 

[wonglp]

Finally my A-Mount to m4/3 adaptor (correct one w/o the aperture control) had arrived! now I can test my Samyang 8mm f3.5 . I have another A-Mount - m4/3 with aperture control but with the aperture pin it prevent me from using the it to the Samyang Lens as the pin is hitting the back plane of the lens mount :-(

here's some sample shots all taken using EPL2 + FE 8mm f3.5

Nice use of FE, love fluffy clouds!

 

[wonglp]

hello will update them later, but can you tell me what you mean by soft?

Hi, Soft means not sharp. Likely, your aperture might be too small (large F numbers).

A suggestion is to work on your composition and how to draw attention of your pictures to the audience. Subject, leading lines, rules of thirds etc. Google on photography composition, learn from looking at others pictures, borrow/buy books, post on clubsnap critique corner ( and be humble, there will be harsh and there will be helpful critiques).

Example Shot 1: You can give it a bit more spark by having a star burst effect (you see the sun light coming in through), to do that, have a small aperture, large F number, i.e F16-F22.

Shots like #2 & #3 could be better if it's done at a different timing (sunrise/sunset/bluehour), or if there's more clouds, or use graduated ND filters to bring out sky details. #2 is washed out in the sky, so no details can be seen. The people there is a distraction unless that's your subject, it seems you are trying depict a path to the flat (correct me if I'm wrong).

Good effort on keeping your levels well and not badly tilted, I tend to tilt my shots a fair bit when I started, still have some tendency now. Most importantly keep shooting and learning Hope that helps.

 

[shiosaki]

Hi, Soft means not sharp. Likely, your aperture might be too small (large F numbers).

A suggestion is to work on your composition and how to draw attention of your pictures to the audience. Subject, leading lines, rules of thirds etc. Google on photography composition, learn from looking at others pictures, borrow/buy books, post on clubsnap critique corner ( and be humble, there will be harsh and there will be helpful critiques).

Example Shot 1: You can give it a bit more spark by having a star burst effect (you see the sun light coming in through), to do that, have a small aperture, large F number, i.e F16-F22.

Shots like #2 & #3 could be better if it's done at a different timing (sunrise/sunset/bluehour), or if there's more clouds, or use graduated ND filters to bring out sky details. #2 is washed out in the sky, so no details can be seen. The people there is a distraction unless that's your subject, it seems you are trying depict a path to the flat (correct me if I'm wrong).

Good effort on keeping your levels well and not badly tilted, I tend to tilt my shots a fair bit when I started, still have some tendency now. Most importantly keep shooting and learning Hope that helps.

thank you so much for the tips and suggestions. i will keep on trying.
i have no idea why the pictures are always not sharp, most of these are shot with max aperture on the 14-42.

 

[bahamot]

OM-D E-M5 with Panasonic Leica DG Summilux 25mm/f1.4 @f3.2 1/640 ISO200

OM-D E-M5 with Panasonic Leica DG Summilux 25mm/f1.4 @f13 1/3200 ISO200

 

[albertri]

Nice use of FE, love fluffy clouds!

thanks bro just love this lens I once own this lens then swap it with Tokina 11-16 but I miss this fun lens so I bought another copy good part is I could use this lens to both my systems which is awesome I lost the smallish form factor for Samyang FE for m4/3 but on EPL2 the lens is not that big just nice it's like PL 25mm f1.4 with hood hehe.

Yeah today saw a nice could formation cant resist to bring out the cam and lens for a quickie hehe.

 

[albertri]

thank you so much for the tips and suggestions. i will keep on trying.
i have no idea why the pictures are always not sharp, most of these are shot with max aperture on the 14-42.

Hi what bro WongLP said is all true. BTW what do you mean max aperture? like F22 or f32? try to avoid shooting around F22 or F32 there's this called defraction where the lens if you make a graph of it's sharpness for each aperture most lenses will start to become soft image (now sharp) as the aperture goes higher I think most lens the sweet spot if around F8-f16 beyond that the image quality goes slowly down.

Post more and shoot more All Oly users are very helpful and they will provide very useful tips

 

[shiosaki]

Hi what bro WongLP said is all true. BTW what do you mean max aperture? like F22 or f32? try to avoid shooting around F22 or F32 there's this called defraction where the lens if you make a graph of it's sharpness for each aperture most lenses will start to become soft image (now sharp) as the aperture goes higher I think most lens the sweet spot if around F8-f16 beyond that the image quality goes slowly down.

Post more and shoot more All Oly users are very helpful and they will provide very useful tips

thanks! i meant the smallest f stop number which is the max aperture. i have updated them.
thanks guys for the help and suggestions grateful
will try out more!

 

[albertri]

thanks! i meant the smallest f stop number which is the max aperture. i have updated them.
thanks guys for the help and suggestions grateful
will try out more!

saw it try to push it a bit more like F8 or F11 up to F16 when shooting landscape so everything will be sharp . Your shooting with the lens wide open or as you said max aperture. Try to experiment shooting landscape with different aperture settings and see how the image will came out

Enjoy your cam and shoot more ;-)

 

[shiosaki]

saw it try to push it a bit more like F8 or F11 up to F16 when shooting landscape so everything will be sharp . Your shooting with the lens wide open or as you said max aperture. Try to experiment shooting landscape with different aperture settings and see how the image will came out

Enjoy your cam and shoot more ;-)

i guess you identified the problem for me. i was wondering why only certain parts are sharp. thanks! i will!

 

[adrianishikawa]

E-M5 with 12-50mm at 43mm Macro Mode. 1/20 f/8.0 ISO 1600


Leica M6 Classic by adrianishikawa, on Flickr​

 

[coughing bean]

EM5
Kit Lens @ 16mm
F4.1
1/320


P6080358 by coughing bean, on Flickr

 

[microcosm]

EM-5 with 12-50mm f3.5
Stitched in Photoshop
​

 

[microcosm]

EM-5 with 12-50mm in Macro Mode
Color tweaked in Photoshop
​

 

[microcosm]

EM-5 with 12-50mm in Macro Mode
Digi-scoped through Nikon Field Scope at 48x zoom
Object distance - 4km
​

 

[rhino123]

Took out my old manual lenses and try shooting some shots with them. I am not really good with manual lenses though and it is pretty tough (at least to me).

Camera use: Olympus OM-D
Lens: Vivitar 200mm f3.5

Camera use: Olympus OM-D
Lens: Vivitar 200mm f3.5

Camera use: Olympus OM-D
Lens: Industar 50mm f3.5

Camera use: Olympus OM-D
Lens: vivitar 200mm f3.5

 

[albertri]

Gotten my hand on Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 58mm f2 (Made in Germany) this is the lens that Russian copied (Helios 44 series) some quick snaps. I have a bit of problem with my M42 adaptor its seems I cant focus Infinity. The adaptors I have are those for Auto-M42 I have one M42-MA who's not meant for Auto-M42 and that could focus infinity so I must get the same adaptor for my EPL2 so I could use this to focus to infinity

58mm
1/160
ISO200
f2

58mm
1/500
ISO200
f2

58mm
1/400
ISO200
f2