Papilio
Senior Member
It's not easy to get your sensor in plane with the butterfly, and for many species, a slight movement would frighten them off. Takes a lot of practice and a good dose of luck as well.
Generally, the rule of thumb is similar to most other types of photography. If you're using a 90mm lens, then 1/90s should get you there. Longer lenses like the 180mm would require a commensurate higher shutter speed like 1/180s or 1/200s. However, as scenar said, if there are situations where you can brace yourself against something to steady your hands, then you should be able to handhold slower speeds.
I often carry a monopod to help steady my setup when approaching butterflies, but more often than not, a monopod and tripod are more of a hindrance when shooting subjects like butterflies and bees. On the uncommon occasion that you encounter a subject that stays still for you, then of course the tripod would be the best. But from experience, this happens only about 5% of the time we are out in the field. So practising and refining your handholding technique would go a long way to get you that "perfect" pic.
When you see a butterfly settle on a flower, what you can do is to shoot from afar (what I call "insurance" shots) and then slowly move in closer and closer to get the ideal composition that you want to achieve. If in the meantime the butterfly flies off, then try again another time. As you're using digital these days, it's a case of deleting the unwanted files later. I agree with scenar that you should not go in too close with the subject too tight in the frame, unless it is part of your intention to present a different point of view in featuring the butterfly.
Generally, the rule of thumb is similar to most other types of photography. If you're using a 90mm lens, then 1/90s should get you there. Longer lenses like the 180mm would require a commensurate higher shutter speed like 1/180s or 1/200s. However, as scenar said, if there are situations where you can brace yourself against something to steady your hands, then you should be able to handhold slower speeds.
I often carry a monopod to help steady my setup when approaching butterflies, but more often than not, a monopod and tripod are more of a hindrance when shooting subjects like butterflies and bees. On the uncommon occasion that you encounter a subject that stays still for you, then of course the tripod would be the best. But from experience, this happens only about 5% of the time we are out in the field. So practising and refining your handholding technique would go a long way to get you that "perfect" pic.
When you see a butterfly settle on a flower, what you can do is to shoot from afar (what I call "insurance" shots) and then slowly move in closer and closer to get the ideal composition that you want to achieve. If in the meantime the butterfly flies off, then try again another time. As you're using digital these days, it's a case of deleting the unwanted files later. I agree with scenar that you should not go in too close with the subject too tight in the frame, unless it is part of your intention to present a different point of view in featuring the butterfly.
, I chanced on a mating pair of this species and subsequently managed to narrow down its hideout and had collected more data of the species in the last month . Dr. Horace Tan also chanced on the species ovipositing on its host plant. and has just successful recorded the life Cycle ( egg to adult) of this species on the host plant Entada spiralis.With these additional data we've gathered in the last 4 weeks, we are fairy confident in identify this species as species #290 for the Singapore checklist. Do look out for the complete writeup of this latest species in the near future!
