S1/S2/S3 Pics

[lastboltnut]

I toto those were there to show that it is a playground......:think:

Yeah, a wee bit blown. I like the idea. No idea how to C&C though. Mayeb if that blue ring thingy was not included long wit hthe red roof.

 

[cerebrus]

I toto those were there to show that it is a playground......:think:

Try including more of it. Its half half now, so cannot really make it out.

 

[cerebrus]

I took an IR picture while playing with my new Raynox toys.

Thread is here

Small image:

 

[Jackals]

I use Photoshop, tell it to increase canvas size and select the colour.

i see....txs!

 

[lastboltnut]

Yah, that's my tots too, but the sun was very bright (direct sun) on some parts of the pic if I zoom our farther, then the exposure not nice......may be should wait for a better timing.

Try including more of it. Its half half now, so cannot really make it out.

 

[lastboltnut]

Nice IR, always makes tree crowns look like Sakura tree.

Sorry to ask, the IR taken by my wedding Photographer is hardly colourful, is it because he used B/W Film? He is SLR fan and doesn't take digital.

And I realised that some IR pic can see reflection. But to wat I know of IR sensor, it is suppose to sense heat and heat will be disipated on a glass pane and therefore, cannot see reflection/refraction......so can I say that the IR is not truely IR?:dunno:

I took an IR picture while playing with my new Raynox toys.

Thread is here

Small image:

 

[wishxtreme]

Wishextreme, I like your first sunset photo. Good for postcard. Did you do any special setting? And that must be Singapore's national bird in the background.

No special settings. just using different shutter speed and aperture as well as the WB to control the colour. Not muuch edit in photoshop a bit of USM andbrightness and contrast.

I took this at Labrador park and not bird park..

 

[NightZ88]

No special settings. just using different shutter speed and aperture as well as the WB to control the colour. Not muuch edit in photoshop a bit of USM andbrightness and contrast.

I took this at Labrador park and not bird park..

ermz.. i tink wat he meant was a helicopter in e backgrnd. nth to do wif live birds.. :bsmilie:

 

[tks]

Aiyoh, you guys don't know Singapore's national bird. It's everywhere. The crane.

 

[yipdanny]

Took this shot this afternoon around Shenton Way area. Managed to get B&W effect without changing camera settings.

 

[cerebrus]

Nice IR, always makes tree crowns look like Sakura tree.

Sorry to ask, the IR taken by my wedding Photographer is hardly colourful, is it because he used B/W Film? He is SLR fan and doesn't take digital.

And I realised that some IR pic can see reflection. But to wat I know of IR sensor, it is suppose to sense heat and heat will be disipated on a glass pane and therefore, cannot see reflection/refraction......so can I say that the IR is not truely IR?:dunno:

Yeah, the whites from the leaves. Basicly, whatever reflects the most amount of IR will appear white. For film, you need special IR sensitive film, which is normally B&W. So you will not get the psudo colours that my shots have. Also, I am shooting using a Hoya R72. It blocks off all light below 720nm wavelength. Your eye can see up to 780nm. So the R72 still lets in some visible light and light in the near IR spectrum.

You can check if you cam is sensitive to IR by pointing a remote at it and pressing buttons on the remote. If you can see the light, means your camera is IR sensitive.

What I am shooting is near Infra Red, not far Infra Red. Far Infra Red is the thermal detection stuff, normal CCD cannot detect it. I am just shooting something that is normally not visible to the human eye, but can be detected by my cameras CCD. Post in the IR forum, the people there are quite helpful & might provide better answers then me.

 

[cerebrus]

Took this shot this afternoon around Shenton Way area. Managed to get B&W effect without changing camera settings.

Ill just do C&C on your technical handling. What you are doing is actually good for taking sunset shots. Basicly expose so that the sky is good and that the rest of the stuff appears under exposed and dark. It is also good for shooting silhouettes of objects, like the trees that you have done. Did you shoot in manual mode or did you expose the sky and then shift the frame?

 

[yipdanny]

Not on manual mode. You are right, expose the sky then shift the frame.

Ill just do C&C on your technical handling. What you are doing is actually good for taking sunset shots. Basicly expose so that the sky is good and that the rest of the stuff appears under exposed and dark. It is also good for shooting silhouettes of objects, like the trees that you have done. Did you shoot in manual mode or did you expose the sky and then shift the frame?

 

[tks]

I paid a visit to Underwater World, Sentosa, today.

Taken using High Speed Continuous Shooting. I set to "beach" scene but don't seem to see any difference.

All the following pictures are taken through the aquarium glass with flash off. Auto setting. How to improve the clarity of the pictures? I always use autofocus

 

[NightZ88]

Aiyoh, you guys don't know Singapore's national bird. It's everywhere. The crane.

oops.. too used to e american term for bird le. :embrass:

 

[lastboltnut]

Ok, I think I get what you mean now. so you are shooting at the nearer end of IR. I vaguely remember there are 3 class of IR range right?

Ok, since you are shooting with some degree of visible light, so it explains the reflection.

Thanks.

Yeah, the whites from the leaves. Basicly, whatever reflects the most amount of IR will appear white. For film, you need special IR sensitive film, which is normally B&W. So you will not get the psudo colours that my shots have. Also, I am shooting using a Hoya R72. It blocks off all light below 720nm wavelength. Your eye can see up to 780nm. So the R72 still lets in some visible light and light in the near IR spectrum.

You can check if you cam is sensitive to IR by pointing a remote at it and pressing buttons on the remote. If you can see the light, means your camera is IR sensitive.

What I am shooting is near Infra Red, not far Infra Red. Far Infra Red is the thermal detection stuff, normal CCD cannot detect it. I am just shooting something that is normally not visible to the human eye, but can be detected by my cameras CCD. Post in the IR forum, the people there are quite helpful & might provide better answers then me.

 

[lastboltnut]

Nice aquarium shoots. But I think shooting thru glass is not easy......u may need to use manual focus, but since they are swimming, then u have to be fast I think. Just my thinking.....may be wrong.

I paid a visit to Underwater World, Sentosa, today.

Taken using High Speed Continuous Shooting. I set to "beach" scene but don't seem to see any difference.

All the following pictures are taken through the aquarium glass with flash off. Auto setting. How to improve the clarity of the pictures? I always use autofocus

 

[cerebrus]

I paid a visit to Underwater World, Sentosa, today.

Taken using High Speed Continuous Shooting. I set to "beach" scene but don't seem to see any difference.

All the following pictures are taken through the aquarium glass with flash off. Auto setting. How to improve the clarity of the pictures? I always use autofocus

Think the beach mode sets the Exposure Comp to a lower number, so the camera does not mis-meter on the bright reflections from the water. Shooting thru galss is always a pain, especially for fishes. You can try to focus lock on a certain area, then wait for fish to swim past. Or get a off camera falsh with a diffuser, so that you do not get the direct flash relfecting off the glass.

 

[NightZ88]

where two era meets (note: e bicycle and e bus) :bsmilie:

 

[Parta]

The angle works for me. Background is a bit too focused though.

I think that THIS CENTERED PERSON AS Cerebrus doesn't know anything about how to make a artistic photo. You are always complaining but your spiders doesn't impress at all. only that you can zoom and out, and focus from right to the left doesn't make you a artisan.