Reverse macro of random things =)

[old-newbird]

yeap, there is vignetting at the corners. i think this is the problem with reversed macro. the filed-of-view is limited and focussing is difficult, unless the object is under bright light. if we stop down the aperture to increase the DOF, we get serious vignetting, because the focal blades have become closer. but we do it wide-open, we lose a lot of DOF.

i took a similar shot of the eye of a $2 note and got vignetting also.

i think i would prefer to stick with using raynox clipped to a zoom.

the prime 50mm can be reserved for bokeh shot. ha ha...

hi sorry for the late reply bro... ok this 10 dollar shot was done with a 100mm f22 and reversed 50mm f4. both are MF primes. for raynox i think i did a test shot with my diy reverse ring. i see if i can find it and post up here.

 

[shadowpartner]

Woo the eyes one is really nice . I've never seen something like that !

 

[StrifeYun]

COOL stuff !!!

 

[nstclicks]

Two shots of mealy bug on buah nona in my garden. Both taken with reversed OM Zuiko 50/1.8 mounted in front of ZD 40-150 on E-510. Manual lens was set fully open while the camera was set to aperture priority (f22) with centre-weighted auto-metering. Photo was taken under mid-day sun. No flash.

First photo was brightened slightly while no post-processing was used for second one (other than resizing).

 

[BlackWhite]

very AMAZING indeed!
thanks for sharing the pic & setup .. i might try to hv some fun

 

[tester99]

yes yes... that is absolutely right... guess i needa get 1 reverse ring for extreme macro as well haha...

how much does the reverse ring cost? the effect looks perfect - just like what u do with a macro lens.

 

[netjackalsg]

how much does the reverse ring cost? the effect looks perfect - just like what u do with a macro lens.

if you handhold it .. it doesn't cost anything ... otherwise on tagotech it is about $22

 

[tester99]

i looked through the lengthy tutorial on another website about the reverse macro thingy - they mentioned one step about wedging the aperture latch on the prime. how do you guys do that? interested to try but afraid of spoiling/scratching any part of my precious lens ( although it's cheap ) lol.

 

[netjackalsg]

i looked through the lengthy tutorial on another website about the reverse macro thingy - they mentioned one step about wedging the aperture latch on the prime. how do you guys do that? interested to try but afraid of spoiling/scratching any part of my precious lens ( although it's cheap ) lol.

nikon lenses has a latch that can be used to adjust the aperture. canon lenses dont. the only way i know of changing aperture on reverse macro with canon lens is to use the DOF preview button .. quick search on those terms should get the proper info.

 

[B-setting]

nikon lenses has a latch that can be used to adjust the aperture. canon lenses dont. the only way i know of changing aperture on reverse macro with canon lens is to use the DOF preview button .. quick search on those terms should get the proper info.

but i suppose, if there is an aperture ring on the reversed prime, we could conveniently adjust the aperture using that ring?

 

[netjackalsg]

but i suppose, if there is an aperture ring on the reversed prime, we could conveniently adjust the aperture using that ring?

yes if your reversed lens has an aperture ring .. then yes by all means use that.

 

[B-setting]

anyway, here are a few test shots i did with my 28-80mm kit lens coupled to a prime 50mm f/1.4.

the aperture ring of the 50mm prime had to be wide open to minimise vignettes. the kit lens was set to 80mm focal length, again to reduce vignettes.

all functions on manual, i.e. aperture, shutter speed and focussing. i did the pics under a single flourescent bulb, so i could not get very sharp pictures under slow shutter speed. the focussing distance most of the time was as little as 20mm, so i did not think using the on-board flash would be of any help, as there would shadows created by the barrels of the coupled lenses.

as you would see in the following pictures, the depth of field is very thin, and the area in focus is also very restrictive.

i would most welcome suggestions on how to increase the area-in-focus, although nothing much could be done about the DOF, since i had to maintain wide-open setting for the aperture.

here are the pictures:

Kiwi Fruit:

Zamioculcas flower stalk:

Silver key-head:

 

[B-setting]

Three more here:

Key teeth combi:

Olympic Rings on a badge:

Worn key shaft:

 

[kongming]

Got a very old MF Lens from Cash Converter last sunday.
the brand is Komura 35-70

Here are my result ...

1.

2.

thanks.

 

[B-setting]

Got a very old MF Lens from Cash Converter last sunday.
the brand is Komura 35-70

Here are my result ...

1.

2.

thanks.

nice sharp images. how much did you pay cash converter? i heard they don't sell things cheap.

 

[kongming]

nice sharp images. how much did you pay cash converter? i heard they don't sell things cheap.

Thanks.
i paid $25 for the lens.

 

[B-setting]

Thanks.
i paid $25 for the lens.

ha ha, that's cheap and good! :thumbsup:

 

[kongming]

ha ha, that's cheap and good! :thumbsup:

ya, is very cheap n good. now waiting for the mount and reverse ring comming.

1.

2.

 

[evangelos K]

Great pics!

I am a newbie to (D)SLR, but I have a coupling ring coming in to play. I will be using a Minolta 50mm 1.7 mounted on 18-70 @ 70mm. Do you guys set the aperture wide open on the front lens by hand (keeping it open all the time with your finger) or you "jam" it with a toothpick, etc.?

Also, so you focus both lenses or just set the front to infinity?

Thanks

 

[Headshotzx]

Front lens wide open (apertures not closed down) Mounted lens stop down to smallest aperture. Front lens set to infinity, mounted lens set to MFD, move the setup to focus.