Pushing film

[Paperkurt]

Hmm..was juz wondering how to push film.
Is it u set the iso to the film in ur cam n den request to push from ur friendly photolab
or u set to e iso to the tt u wish to push to n den snap??..
If its the latter, my cam cannot override the iso setting..
I cant even see it on the lcd..using a 500si
Thanx ;p
newbie got alot questions..

 

[Paperkurt]

Anyway anyone used konica centuria film b4??...how is it??..
esp the100, 200, 800 n 1600 iso
And how is it usually priced????...
haha bear with me... ;p

 

[deslim27]

Hmm..was juz wondering how to push film.
Is it u set the iso to the film in ur cam n den request to push from ur friendly photolab
or u set to e iso to the tt u wish to push to n den snap??..
If its the latter, my cam cannot override the iso setting..
I cant even see it on the lcd..using a 500si
Thanx ;p
newbie got alot questions..

You will have to override the ISO setting detected by the camera. Assuming your 500si is same as my 505si, then you set the ISO via the top dial.

Alternatively, you can set the EV Comp -1 to push 1 stop, -2 to push 2 stop etc, but have to be consistent thru out the entire roll. (may not applicable/work for flash photography).

Edit : Sorry, corrected the EV Comp portion

 

[ileaf]

riding on the subject of pushing film, anyone have any experience on the effects of pushing / pulling films?
eg, is it recommended to push slide film? what will be the effects of pushing/pulling in general?

any "bird" :sweat: , be it old or new, care to share a bit?

 

[clive]

pushing:

u get more
1.grain
2.slightly weird colour shifts

the rest remains pretty much ok

using fujipress800 can push until iso3200..from the print the pic will look a bit "off" but still largely usable.

have fun ;-)

 

[Paperkurt]

You will have to override the ISO setting detected by the camera. Assuming your 500si is same as my 505si, then you set the ISO via the top dial.

Alternatively, you can set the EV Comp -1 to push 1 stop, -2 to push 2 stop etc, but have to be consistent thru out the entire roll. (may not applicable/work for flash photography).

Edit : Sorry, corrected the EV Comp portion

Sadly nope mine has no dial.
Auto detect one..cannot override. cannot even see or
check if it read e dx coding correctly or not...

Anyway e eV comp really works???..

 

[Zerstorer]

Setting the ISO or using -EV compensation results in the same effect.

 

[Paperkurt]

so juz do e EV compensation n develop normally???...(no pushing tt is lahzz..)

 

[vivientan]

Sadly nope mine has no dial.
Auto detect one..cannot override. cannot even see or
check if it read e dx coding correctly or not...

Anyway e eV comp really works???..

I think u shd check again. If my 404si can override the camera's ISO settings, I think yours also can right?

Btw, when we do EV comp, the photo lab should be able to automatically detect that & process a correctly exposed film. No need to give the lab special instructions right? We only request for push/pull when we change the camera's ISO settings huh?

 

[Zerstorer]

Most negatives can take between 1 to 2 stops underexposure and still be corrected at the printing stage to look reasonably good.

 

[Zerstorer]

Btw, when we do EV comp, the photo lab should be able to automatically detect that & process a correctly exposed film. No need to give the lab special instructions right? We only request for push/pull when we change the camera's ISO settings huh?

Whether you push using EV compensation or by setting the ISO results gives exactly the same effect.

Most labs will just process the negs normally and do the appropriate corrections on the prints itself. You don't actually have to tell them anything.

 

[moos blues]

use ur hand and physically move it. okay i just had to. yes yes kok me. ;p



erm... rather than a solution... i got question.

when i went to get some illford(400).. the guy told me push( rather pull ) it to 100. he says it looks better...

but thats equvalent to overexposing it wad... i walked out dint think much abt it... but now that i think abt it i find this weird.

anyone got a website on push film and various films etc?

and how about pulling.. anyone tried?

 

[Zerstorer]

Actually we are using terms very loosely here.
Pushing refers to using the film at a higher exposure index and then compensating for it during developing.(extending developer time..etc).

Pulling is the converse. (Set to lower than rated ISO..etc)

Merely setting film at the different EI(ISO) and developing normally is termed re-rating the film.

Rating a film at a higher EI, will normally result in lower contrast and muddier shadows and added grain. Rating it at a lower EI will give better contrast, purer tones and perhaps smoother grain in shadow areas.

 

[Nightshade]

Pushing film will allow you to shoot in circumstances where ordinarily you would be unable to do so; say you go on a shoot and you use up all your 800 film and it gets dark, all you have left is 400 and you don't want to use flash...push it a few stops to 800, 1600 or 3200.

However, you lose shadow detail, get pronounced grain, and can experience color shifts (I've never noticed a color shift, but not going to say it won't happen).

Different films will push with varying degrees of success. Negative films push much better than slide films. I can push negatives up to 3 stops without getting terrible results. Slide films can usually only be pushed one and -maybe- two; anything more is definitely not recommended.

The -entire- roll must be shot at the same speed; if you're going to push a roll of 200 to 800, you'd better be consistent throughout and be -sure- to keep track of which canister of film it was, for you'll need to tell your minilab how many stops to push it.

It's better to buy film at the rating you'd like than push slower film, by and large. However, some film speeds are impossible to buy, so you're forced to push. Kodak Tmax 3200 is -technically- an 800 speed film that is designated as a 3200 speed that can actually be shot all the way up to ISO 25000. (that's five stops faster than 800!) Good luck entering that value into your camera's ISO dial.


Alternatively, there's a process called "pulling" film in which you overexpose and underdevelop. (Pushing is underexposing and overdeveloping.) Pulling film is a bit less straightforward and hard to do, but can result in a ludicrously high dynamic range; by overexposing you can get detail out of shadows while still maintaining highlights (to some extent. This is where lots of skill in developing film comes into play).

Hope that clears up some of your questions. Remember, each film brand, type and speed will react very differently, so experiment before it's particularly important.

 

[AReality]

so can i say that when tell the lab to push/pull the roll, the final washed negative will be of the correct exposure, Which is different from washing the roll normally, then when developing into prints, they adjust the exposure.

correct?

 

[Nightshade]

AR: that is correct. The negative itself will be developed for a longer time (when pushing) so that it will be the correct exposure. It has -nothing- to do with the printing process.

 

[deslim27]

I think u shd check again. If my 404si can override the camera's ISO settings, I think yours also can right?

Btw, when we do EV comp, the photo lab should be able to automatically detect that & process a correctly exposed film. No need to give the lab special instructions right? We only request for push/pull when we change the camera's ISO settings huh?

Correct. EV comp is meant to 'describe' the brightness of a scene. Push/Pull process is meant to make a film to work at different ISO rate that it meant to be.

 

[deslim27]

so juz do e EV compensation n develop normally???...(no pushing tt is lahzz..)

If develop normally, the film will be over/under exposed depends whether you +EV/-EV. Usually, we will not able to tell if we use negative/print process. The lab will adjust the result for you when printing.

 

[deslim27]

erm... rather than a solution... i got question.

when i went to get some illford(400).. the guy told me push( rather pull ) it to 100. he says it looks better...

but thats equvalent to overexposing it wad... i walked out dint think much abt it... but now that i think abt it i find this weird.

Yes, I think he is asking you to overexpose by 2 stop. Some (can't say for all) negative tends to produce less grainy output when overexposed. Some photographers like to rate a NPH (400) at 320 or even 260.

But to your point, I think 2 stop is too much. :sweat:

 

[Paperkurt]

I think u shd check again. If my 404si can override the camera's ISO settings, I think yours also can right?

Btw, when we do EV comp, the photo lab should be able to automatically detect that & process a correctly exposed film. No need to give the lab special instructions right? We only request for push/pull when we change the camera's ISO settings huh?

Cannot juz checked e manual. All it does is read the dx coding.
And if not readable will set to iso100...sadzz...