Pushing film


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Paperkurt said:
Anyway anyone used konica centuria film b4??...how is it??..
esp the100, 200, 800 n 1600 iso
And how is it usually priced????...
haha bear with me... ;p

Hi,

I've used Centuria 200 back in 2000. Just got them scanned recently. You can view them here http://chiochiophoto.com/gallery/SteppingOut

Compared to Kodak Gold 200, they are not as warm but slightly more saturated.

Cheers!
 

Paperkurt said:
Cannot juz checked e manual. All it does is read the dx coding.
And if not readable will set to iso100...sadzz...

Hi,

Heard from someone that it's possible to trick the DX contacts on the camera by using metal foils. But that's abit too much work to do to push the film.

Cheers!
 

Paperkurt said:
Cannot juz checked e manual. All it does is read the dx coding.
And if not readable will set to iso100...sadzz...

:bsmilie:

Don't worry about pushing lah. Just prepare yourself with various ISO type films before going out. That's what I do..
 

deslim27 said:
Correct. EV comp is meant to 'describe' the brightness of a scene. Push/Pull process is meant to make a film to work at different ISO rate that it meant to be.

If that's the case, can I assume that we can EV comp at different settings in the same roll of film unlike push/pull which has to be consistent? eg +1 EV for half the roll & -1 EV for the remaining

Pardon me for all the stupid questions, but I'm quite clueless...trying to get my facts correct ;p
 

vivientan said:
If that's the case, can I assume that we can EV comp at different settings in the same roll of film unlike push/pull which has to be consistent?
yes thats rite =)
 

UY79 said:
Hi,

Heard from someone that it's possible to trick the DX contacts on the camera by using metal foils. But that's abit too much work to do to push the film.

Cheers!

to trick DX... u can just blacken out those relevant silver squares on the film canister itself. it depends on what ISO u want to trick also..coz sometimes black square is hard to convert to silver square
 

UY79 said:
Hi,

I've used Centuria 200 back in 2000. Just got them scanned recently. You can view them here http://chiochiophoto.com/gallery/SteppingOut

Compared to Kodak Gold 200, they are not as warm but slightly more saturated.

Cheers!

used konica centuria 100. *once*
it was recommended by my teacher in a basic photography class for night shoots. he mentioned that konica films tend to produce a nice hue for night shots etc. er, it probably is a personal choice, i must say some of the night pictures had a nice colour...
 

vivientan said:
If that's the case, can I assume that we can EV comp at different settings in the same roll of film unlike push/pull which has to be consistent? eg +1 EV for half the roll & -1 EV for the remaining

Correct. EV comp often are more applicable for slide than negative where we will see the end result directly. I've ever do 3 bracketing shots (-1/0/+1) on a scene using negative, and I can't even tell a different between the 3 prints, the lab is doing a good job :D.

vivientan said:
Pardon me for all the stupid questions, but I'm quite clueless...trying to get my facts correct ;p

Feel free to ask! :), most happy to answer if I can, else someone will answer and we will learn together :bsmilie:.
 

I like to overexpose Fuji film using the EV dial. However, I dun tell the lab that I overexposed by about 1 stop. This is just to increase the saturation of the prints. It seems to work for me.... not sure if there is any basis for this.... I usually do this only for shots where there's lots of colour...
 

deslim27 said:
Correct. EV comp often are more applicable for slide than negative where we will see the end result directly. I've ever do 3 bracketing shots (-1/0/+1) on a scene using negative, and I can't even tell a different between the 3 prints, the lab is doing a good job :D.



Feel free to ask! :), most happy to answer if I can, else someone will answer and we will learn together :bsmilie:.


I have tried that before and ask the lab not to do any correction, the difference very slight.

As for 500si, just use the EV+/- setting can't change the ISO. The EV can set up to +/-3 if I still remember correctly.


So if you use ISO 100 and wanted to treat it as a ISO400 negs, just select -2 on the EV+/- button. Then follow the meter throughout the whole roll. And ask the lab to developed the roll as a ISO400. I believe its is simliar to changing the ISO setting of camera.
 

Under what circumstances do u guys compensate for flash and/or exposure? Or do u do that all the time? Most of the times, I do EV comp by +1 or +1.5, just to ensure my photos are not underexposed.
 

vivientan said:
Under what circumstances do u guys compensate for flash and/or exposure? Or do u do that all the time? Most of the times, I do EV comp by +1 or +1.5, just to ensure my photos are not underexposed.


That's what I normally do as well, EV+1,
the button is easier to access than changing the ISO setting. As for the flash EV+/- seldom use. maybe more suitable for built in flash. I just change the setting from the external flash.

Quite funny though, seldom use my built-in-flash even it's being quoted as the most powerful built-in-flash. Its something that I paid for but rarely use. Haiz.....its 800si.
 

Aton said:
That's what I normally do as well, EV+1,
the button is easier to access than changing the ISO setting. As for the flash EV+/- seldom use. maybe more suitable for built in flash. I just change the setting from the external flash.

Quite funny though, seldom use my built-in-flash even it's being quoted as the most powerful built-in-flash. Its something that I paid for but rarely use. Haiz.....its 800si.

At least u still have a flash compensation to play around with. My 404si doesn't come with this function :cry:

Fr what I understand, the EV comp can be doubled up as a flash comp right? Any guidelines to follow? For eg, if I need to increase flash comp, is it alright to change EV comp to +2 or +3?
 

vivientan said:
Under what circumstances do u guys compensate for flash and/or exposure? Or do u do that all the time? Most of the times, I do EV comp by +1 or +1.5, just to ensure my photos are not underexposed.

Vivien, are you using negative or slides?
 

vivientan said:
Fr what I understand, the EV comp can be doubled up as a flash comp right? Any guidelines to follow? For eg, if I need to increase flash comp, is it alright to change EV comp to +2 or +3?

flash comp & EV comp are totally separate things. like 2 dfferent paintbrushes
compensating separately for either is like decidign how much paint to dip in for each separate paintbrush.
 

deslim27 said:
Vivien, are you using negative or slides?

Negatives, have not tried my hands in shooting slides yet ;)
 

vivientan said:
Negatives, have not tried my hands in shooting slides yet ;)

Then get your hand dirty :D Its fun and very rewarding!

I not sure how to get the flash comp to work on 404/505 since I always use negative for flash photography. Assuming 404/505 flash is in-sync with EV comp. Then you might as well override the ISO, divide the rated value by half. This way, you will always get a EV +1 exposure without changing EV comp.
 

Aton said:
Quite funny though, seldom use my built-in-flash even it's being quoted as the most powerful built-in-flash. Its something that I paid for but rarely use. Haiz.....its 800si.

LOL! Its normal, we want to buy the best, but rarely use those features :bsmilie:
 

deslim27 said:
Then get your hand dirty :D Its fun and very rewarding!

I've been wanting to try shooting slides, but first of all, I need to read up/do my homework first ;) Any good pointers?
 

vivientan said:
I've been wanting to try shooting slides, but first of all, I need to read up/do my homework first ;) Any good pointers?

In short, apart from those that you've probably know, study zone system and learn how to use spot metering on your camera. You need to have the total control over the exposure ;).

Try to empty a roll of slide first to get a feel how is it like :D.
 

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