Powershot S3 IS


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I remb someone here told me he bought from HN and got extended warranty from Canon svc center....he say he called and checked liao. But if you need installment, with the extended warranty, its worth it after al.

tks said:
Hi

HN prices are always negotiable. So, instead of giving a bigger discount, some sales staff may give you in other forms such as extended warranty. Up to the staff.

But don't be carried away yet. Do note that you can buy another 2 years' warranty from Canon (total 3 years) at only $70. Do your sums and see if buying at a cheaper price (at HN, AP or MS) and buying the extended warranty from Canon is better.

One thing about warranty from shops. If the shop closes down or ceases business, I think your extended warranty may become just a piece of paper. Same with Canon warranty but I don't suppose they will close down or cease business in Singapore.
 

Guys, I have a few questions which seems to be bothering me.

I just came back from backpacking in Taiwan with a S3is, which I bought about 2 months ago. Along the way, S3is has served its purpose of snapping pictures and memories. However, I faced quite a number of problems when i was snaping around.

1)I tried the manual focus to get my attention on either foreground or background. However, the subject dont seems to contrast out as sharp as i hoped, regardless of fore/back ground. Is there a way to make the blurring effect more obvious?

2)In Manual mode, is it always the case to adjust MF so that you can snap the subject? It seems abit tedious, consider u have to hold the MF while adjusting the depth.

3)I didnt get a polarizer during the trip. And I realised most of the time, the sky is always white! If i were to give my attention on the blue sky, the subject on the ground turns so burned and dull. So a polarizer is a must to capture blue sky without sacrificing the grounds?

4)When i tried to take night scene pictures, I tried to adjust the aperture and shutter speed, while minimising the ISO level to 400 or below(with a tripod). However, the noise level still seems quite noticeable. Is this normal? Previously i was browing some night scenes by fellow CS members. They portrayed really decent and beautiful night scenes. I was WOWed! But, looking at mine, i can only shake my head.

5)I was shooting from a high-ground, overviewing the night life of the city. When I tried to reduce Shutter speed to 2 to 3 seconds, I realised the black sky seems to fade and turned greyish at the line between the sky and the city lights. It was really ugly though, as the lights and night sky dont contrast out with the presence of 'grey sky' inbetween them.

PS. Is it impossible to shoot at a sky with a sea of stars? Using the S3IS, it only shows me a black screen.

6)Lastly, anyone knows wats 'Spot, Center weighted Avg and Evaluative'?

Having used the S3IS for my 1 month backpacking trip in Taiwan, I realised S3IS serve as a really good snap and shoot camera. Especially with its adjustable screen. I realised i can shoot at any angle while viewing the live mode on the LCD. It saved me the trouble to squat or find a high land to take an overview on a busy street. I'm really glad that the reversable screen comes in handy.As Taiwan is blessed with several scenic spots, quite a handful of Taiwanese tourists are equipped with at least a dslr. This makes me envy their equipment and at the same time, question my own. S3IS seems to serve as a good camera for snap and shoot, but then it cant seems to give me the gratification of demanding better pictures.
The most troubling is the MF button, which makes me spend a considerable amount of time having to adjust to the right depth- and a limited depth!

S3IS is my 1st Digital camera, but i cant seem to get enough.Should I stay with S3IS until i learn more about digital photography? Or should i just get green card for an entry level of dSLR. If i were to stay with S3IS, i'm thinking should i invest in some polarizer, adapter or even lenses, knowing that these equipments wont be with me for long.There is 1 thing which is bothering me that current dSLR dont have a reversable screen. I'm just too used to S3IS's reversable screen as it really save me a lot of trouble.

Anyone care to give me some suggestions?
suggestion?
 

Hi ryuggen, I am new too, but I will share my learning as below (in red):

ryuggen said:
Guys, I have a few questions which seems to be bothering me.

I just came back from backpacking in Taiwan with a S3is, which I bought about 2 months ago. Along the way, S3is has served its purpose of snapping pictures and memories. However, I faced quite a number of problems when i was snaping around.

1)I tried the manual focus to get my attention on either foreground or background. However, the subject dont seems to contrast out as sharp as i hoped, regardless of fore/back ground. Is there a way to make the blurring effect more obvious?

What you want is to have shallow DOF....S3 has small sensor, so quite difficult. U need to do these:

Max Zoom,
open to f3.5 and
stand close to the foreground obj.

If these 3 are achieved, these is the thinest DOF liao...


2)In Manual mode, is it always the case to adjust MF so that you can snap the subject? It seems abit tedious, consider u have to hold the MF while adjusting the depth.

U can still use Auto Focus in M mode

3)I didnt get a polarizer during the trip. And I realised most of the time, the sky is always white! If i were to give my attention on the blue sky, the subject on the ground turns so burned and dull. So a polarizer is a must to capture blue sky without sacrificing the grounds?

Yah polariser (CPL) helps. Or you can take High Dynamic Range Image (HDRI). Or you can use Neutral Graduate filter.

4)When i tried to take night scene pictures, I tried to adjust the aperture and shutter speed, while minimising the ISO level to 400 or below(with a tripod). However, the noise level still seems quite noticeable. Is this normal? Previously i was browing some night scenes by fellow CS members. They portrayed really decent and beautiful night scenes. I was WOWed! But, looking at mine, i can only shake my head.

May be long shutter speed will be better

5)I was shooting from a high-ground, overviewing the night life of the city. When I tried to reduce Shutter speed to 2 to 3 seconds, I realised the black sky seems to fade and turned greyish at the line between the sky and the city lights. It was really ugly though, as the lights and night sky dont contrast out with the presence of 'grey sky' inbetween them.

PS. Is it impossible to shoot at a sky with a sea of stars? Using the S3IS, it only shows me a black screen.

Never try shoot stars yet....did you set to 15sec exposure time? f2.8?

6)Lastly, anyone knows wats 'Spot, Center weighted Avg and Evaluative'?

Center weighted will meter the entire frame but use the center portion with higher weighting. Spot will only meter the center of the spot. Evauative is more advance which will meter many areas in the frame separately and adj the exposure according. Note: dun use evaluative metering in M mode, the fuzzy logic will make the exposure hay-wired.

Having used the S3IS for my 1 month backpacking trip in Taiwan, I realised S3IS serve as a really good snap and shoot camera. Especially with its adjustable screen. I realised i can shoot at any angle while viewing the live mode on the LCD. It saved me the trouble to squat or find a high land to take an overview on a busy street. I'm really glad that the reversable screen comes in handy.As Taiwan is blessed with several scenic spots, quite a handful of Taiwanese tourists are equipped with at least a dslr. This makes me envy their equipment and at the same time, question my own. S3IS seems to serve as a good camera for snap and shoot, but then it cant seems to give me the gratification of demanding better pictures.
The most troubling is the MF button, which makes me spend a considerable amount of time having to adjust to the right depth- and a limited depth!

S3IS is my 1st Digital camera, but i cant seem to get enough.Should I stay with S3IS until i learn more about digital photography? Or should i just get green card for an entry level of dSLR. If i were to stay with S3IS, i'm thinking should i invest in some polarizer, adapter or even lenses, knowing that these equipments wont be with me for long.There is 1 thing which is bothering me that current dSLR dont have a reversable screen. I'm just too used to S3IS's reversable screen as it really save me a lot of trouble.

If you are so use to having the LCD and live view, then DSLR may not be an option (except the Olympus model)Ü

Anyone care to give me some suggestions?
suggestion?
 

Hi all, i am planning to buy a 12x zoom camera. I got a choice of Panasonic FZ7 and Canon Powershot S3IS . But after reading some review, i came across some reviews saying that S3 have poor night shots. Auto point and shoot is not good also. Please enlighten me... Thank you, possible can post some night shots and point and shoot sample?
 

I have a query and appreciate more experienced advice. (new to digital cameras)

I only got to know of Fuji's night capabilities after the F30 was released and I got one for other half. I have been a Canon user and after toying with the F30, I am sold on its ISO!

I am thinking of trading in my 6 mth old Canon IS3 for the coming S6500...it ithis wise?

I dun mind trading the extra X2 zoom and the swivel LCD for the chance to take decent night shots without the flash.

Or is there some manual setting that I am missing/ unaware to improve night shots or dimly lit indoor scenes?
 

For night shot, I think the Fuji F series is the champion liao.:) If night shoot is all you need, then I think you should get Fuji....in all other aspects, I would go for S3....
 

er...i am referring to the S6500.;p
 

lastboltnut said:
For night shot, I think the Fuji F series is the champion liao.:) If night shoot is all you need, then I think you should get Fuji....in all other aspects, I would go for S3....

Thank you very much. i think i will go for S3 but aonter qn. is the night shot realli bad or quite decent?
 

personally, i feel the noise level is quite high...
 

leeweelee80 said:
Thank you very much. i think i will go for S3 but aonter qn. is the night shot realli bad or quite decent?
This is a 3.2 second exposure. No noise reduction.

213315492_ac513f8f28.jpg
 

ryuggen said:
personally, i feel the noise level is quite high...
Its a point and shoot, cannot be helped. Only way is to have a camera with a larger sensor. Which most likely would be a dSLR. The S2IS is noiser then the S3IS, most S2 users are quite happy with it.
 

This is one of the darkest I have captured, at that instant, my eye cannot see as much as this pic. 15sec exposure, ISO 400, f8

198881077_44a0808d78.jpg
 

thks lastblot for the prompt reply. I'm just quite curious how a dslr and prosumer camera differs. U seem to be upgrading to a dslr soon. But then, this thread like no dslr user.... not much comments.
 

sabian said:
I have a query and appreciate more experienced advice. (new to digital cameras)

I only got to know of Fuji's night capabilities after the F30 was released and I got one for other half. I have been a Canon user and after toying with the F30, I am sold on its ISO!

I am thinking of trading in my 6 mth old Canon IS3 for the coming S6500...it ithis wise?

I dun mind trading the extra X2 zoom and the swivel LCD for the chance to take decent night shots without the flash.

Or is there some manual setting that I am missing/ unaware to improve night shots or dimly lit indoor scenes?
i think u might want to get a F11 instead with ur current S3... at least it dun burn a pocket... i guess F11 is already have quite good nite shot in the earlier days....
 

ryuggen said:
thks lastblot for the prompt reply. I'm just quite curious how a dslr and prosumer camera differs. U seem to be upgrading to a dslr soon. But then, this thread like no dslr user.... not much comments.
I do not own a dSLR, but get to play with them quite often. Quite a world of difference between them. If I had a porter to lug my equipment around and loads of $$ to buy said equipment, I would happly go for a dSLR. I do love my S2IS for its portability. With my Raynox DCR 1540, I have a 660mm f3.5 IS USM lens. Do you know how much that would cost for a dSLR? :sweat:
 

Hi ryuggen, for night shoot, DSLR has up to 30sec preset shutter speed and also bulb mode....so can have more room for night shoot. but most cases, 15sec for a prosumer like S3 is very good liao.

This thread is only for SX IS users, so DSLR pic not allowed.:)

ryuggen said:
thks lastblot for the prompt reply. I'm just quite curious how a dslr and prosumer camera differs. U seem to be upgrading to a dslr soon. But then, this thread like no dslr user.... not much comments.
 

lastboltnut said:
This is one of the darkest I have captured, at that instant, my eye cannot see as much as this pic. 15sec exposure, ISO 400, f8

198881077_44a0808d78.jpg

Thank you for your kind assistance. i will get it this weekend thank you.
 

No prob bro. Enj the cam!

leeweelee80 said:
Thank you for your kind assistance. i will get it this weekend thank you.
 

Hi, i would like to ask how to control appropriate amount of flash in Manual mode to nicely exposure the foreground objects. I find that I can only adjust the flash power in three big levels (full/half/zero) in the Manual mode. Thus, I normally need to find the correct distance from the camera to the foreground objects or to reduce the power by using the tissue when the camera is near to the foreground objects to get the desired results otherwise it's either too harsh (overexposure, all white) or too dark.

Is there anyway to meter appropriate amout of flash like in P, TV, AV mode.
Thanks.
 

Hi, I dun use flash most of the time...so not very familiar with flash...however, I think for the TV, AV and Auto mode, there is a pre-flash for S3 to meter the flash and self-adjust the flash.....but I am not very sure.:)

kelvin8x said:
Hi, i would like to ask how to control appropriate amount of flash in Manual mode to nicely exposure the foreground objects. I find that I can only adjust the flash power in three big levels (full/half/zero) in the Manual mode. Thus, I normally need to find the correct distance from the camera to the foreground objects or to reduce the power by using the tissue when the camera is near to the foreground objects to get the desired results otherwise it's either too harsh (overexposure, all white) or too dark.

Is there anyway to meter appropriate amout of flash like in P, TV, AV mode.
Thanks.
 

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