Kenneth67C
New Member
Before
After
After
Post your 'Before' & 'After' Post Processing pictures
- Thread starter SamPaul
- Start date
Kenneth67C
New Member
Before: the boring bedazelled mini
After: Wow Mini!
After: Wow Mini!
naynoy
Deregistered
Before
After
the original looks better. same with the bedazelled mini.
sinned79
Senior Member
Before:
After:
To make the above 2 photos more meaningful that tells a love story. I combine them into a photo montage using Lightroom.
Not much PP done except to convert the original colored photo into vintage brown colored photo (not exactly sepia) as well as a bit of sharpening and toning using Lightroom.
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allenleonhart
Senior Member
cause the sky was close to no color. amazed that he managed to pull out so much of the colors back
small pig
New Member
Before
After
I prefer the original, the moving effect with brake light dont seem correct..
White Wolf
New Member
edutilos- said:
Hey!!!!!! Hey!!!!!!!!
I think you are Mr N.M right??!!?
can you give a rough outline on how you did this :heart: this picture is amazing :thumbsup:
SomeFormOFhuman
Senior Member
There are another 2 more images but due to the forum limit to 5 images per post. So only selected 4 were shown.
Manual DRI + Tone mapping:
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Sembawang Stateland, Singapore.
Manual DRI + Tone mapping:
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Sembawang Stateland, Singapore.
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edutilos-
Senior Member
Sure thing, the main aim is to preserve highlight detail while recovering shadow detail. Yet what I call the hierachy of light has to be strictly observed - i.e. subtle things like the sky having to be the brightest point still (apparent, anyways), reflections NOT being brighter than the source of light, having the light progress naturally, etc.
The first step was to overcome the limitations of sensor dynamic range - so the two source photos are stacked on top of each other. I usually do it in a sandwich style - the darker photo as the base, the brighter photo in the middle, and a repeat of the darker photo on top. I then use a soft LARGE brush to erase away the top layer to reveal the brighter details where I want them - primarily the backlit rock surface, the bottom water + foreground rocks. You don't really need to reveal the details of the tree trunk. Closer to the edges - in this case it was mainly the backlit rock, I then switch to a much smaller brush, and slightly harder. To prevent haloing, the brush opacity is reduced to 50% and work becomes slower at this point.
If any mistakes are made, the middle brighter layer can be erased as well to "undo" it as touch-up.
The resultant photo is then corrected for lens distortion, horizon problems, cropped. For this case the pier things in the background behind the rock were way too irritating, so I cloned them out. Color balance adjustments, some minor highlight/shadow recovery using the Photoshop tool, selective saturation of the sky more than the water, sharpening... Standard stuff.
It's a lot easier than it sounds. You just need to get the hang of it. I think this one took maybe half an hour...
Hope this helps. Cheers.
edutilos-
Senior Member
Ah, I always wondered how you did this one. You also did selective correction of the color on the ground, did you not? It's a good choice which makes the image click together better.
My preference is to actually use images 1, 3 and 4. I'm not sure how image 2 actually contributes. Keep the sky of 1 to darken it a bit - perhaps 30% opacity, then use the muddy ground of 3 and the grass of 4. That should add together nicely.
P.S. Did you multiply the fog quite a bit? I have always wondered, but image 4 shows clearly an absence of fog below the horizon, and none in front of the tree. This is not the case for the final output.
SomeFormOFhuman
Senior Member
Hi thanks for your comments! Yeah I tone mapped the ground colour and tweaked a little. It was somewhat looked like that when I was there at the point of time. Also, there were 2 more shots that the forum limits to the amount of images per post, and one of them consist data for the foreground.
Image no. 2 actually gives the micro-contrast to the sky and ground (the muddy track) actually... Yeah some people actually asked how it kinda plays in the picture but prior to that image it will look bland due to the amount of layers DRIed (LOL, "dried") it will tend to loose a bit of contrast when layered together in PP.
I increased the highlights a bit that caused this, and was tone mapped a little... And again I used another image that wasn't uploaded and shown here... Well and I like how it highlights the tree in front as that was my intended purpose.
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SomeFormOFhuman
Senior Member
One more. Again, I can only show 4 of the main images I used.
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Fixed colour due to the Big Stopper's strong hue of blue colour cast in images. Tried to be as original as possible at the time I remembered on scene.
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Fixed colour due to the Big Stopper's strong hue of blue colour cast in images. Tried to be as original as possible at the time I remembered on scene.
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SomeFormOFhuman
Senior Member
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On photoshop. With the main working image (background) hidden. Multiple layers of the same image were used initially to fix parts of the image especially corner vignetting caused by the filter... Then subsequently used the other exposures for the smaller parts.
Click to enlarge:
On photoshop. With the main working image (background) hidden. Multiple layers of the same image were used initially to fix parts of the image especially corner vignetting caused by the filter... Then subsequently used the other exposures for the smaller parts.
Click to enlarge:
edutilos-
Senior Member
If you have Silver Efex Pro one lazy way that I use is to convert the image to BnW and use the Structure part of the plug-in to enhance the details... Then selectively erase and adjust opacity to taste (set layer type as Luminosity).
Hrm, yes, I agree that it highlights the tree well, nothing against it actually, just that morning mist usually doesn't manifest so heavily even in other countries, unless it's smog - then that's another story altogether. Was just wondering.
Kenneth67C
New Member
When you get to this part - lens distortion, horizon problems, cropped, do you flatten the layers to work on the adjusted image?
Is there a way to still keep the layers if you need to go back and do further adjustments to the previous layers?
Thanks
edutilos-
Senior Member
I don't keep my work in layers, so I just flatten and go forward.
Not sure, but I'm sure it won't be hard to adjust each layer individually to ensure that they are aligned accordingly and keep them in layers in PSD format.
I like to do files from scratch, and it doesn't take that long since I don't like to process too much... So I just keep the RAW file and redo the whole thing if I feel there's a need to address certain flaws later on. Tedious, maybe... But somehow, I feel that the more you look at a picture that's already been cooked somewhat, the less likely you are going to do things properly.
Kenneth67C
New Member
Before
After
After
Kenneth67C
New Member
Before
After
After
Justintime
New Member
Before #1
Before #2
Add together =
This is stunning :thumbsup:
Are these taken from 2 separate photos ? Is it possible to take a single photo in RAW and generate 2 files with different exposure - e.g -1 & +1. And recover from Highlight & Shadow details from layering and selective masking from 2 different exposure ?
Thanks !
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