Please share your photos by a Pentax camera here :)


Status
Not open for further replies.
Bonsai Study
K100D Voigtlander Macro Apo-Lanthar 125mm

Bonsai3.jpg


Bonsai2.jpg


bonsai_leaf.jpg
 

Looks like you enjoying using the Voigtlander Macro Apo-Lanthar 125mm. Thanks for sharing.:)

Thanks bro. The more I shoot with it, the more I'm impressed by it. The long focusing throw from infinity to min focusing distance (2 full turns!) call for a more deliberate style of shooting. It's a heavy lens but the image quality is superb. Very sharp from f2.5 onwards, almost negligible CA, great contrast and bokeh. :thumbsup:

Another shot in Chinatown area today.
Facade.jpg
 

f/11, 1/20s, iso 100. The exif data are intact with the photo.:)

huh? how is it possible at those settings the image can come out so bright? :think:
Mine would have resulted in very dark image.
BTW, ISO100...just realised its a K10D image cos the K100 only has ISO200...heh heh
 

huh? how is it possible at those settings the image can come out so bright? :think:
Mine would have resulted in very dark image.
BTW, ISO100...just realised its a K10D image cos the K100 only has ISO200...heh heh

wondering the same thing :think:

It's bright because i have pushed up the brightness during Raw conversion.

This is the original without adjusting.
IMGP5531O.jpg
 

It's bright because i have pushed up the brightness during Raw conversion.

Thanks istDes,
Even unprocessed it looks pretty decent. I noticed in auto mode, my camera would switch to the widest (f/1.4 or f/2.8) under those conditions and around f.5.6 and still the photos came out dim...Here are 2 examples.
This one taken using my old istDL, ISO200, f/4.5, 1/3 s. It looks dark.

IMGP1288.jpg


Meawhile this one was taken at ISO1600, f/3.5, 1/13 sec. This should be much brigher than your shot but in the end...:(

IMGP1237.jpg


cheers
 

Thanks istDes,
Even unprocessed it looks pretty decent. I noticed in auto mode, my camera would switch to the widest (f/1.4 or f/2.8) under those conditions and around f.5.6 and still the photos came out dim...Here are 2 examples.
This one taken using my old istDL, ISO200, f/4.5, 1/3 s. It looks dark.

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r265/airconvent/Test Shots/IMGP1288.jpg

Meawhile this one was taken at ISO1600, f/3.5, 1/13 sec. This should be much brigher than your shot but in the end...:(

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r265/airconvent/Test Shots/IMGP1237.jpg

cheers

The problem with auto mode is that the camera will sample light levels and if it sees a bright source then it will set shutter speed/apeture according to what it thinks is correct. Try M mode next time, take a few shots with the different apenture and shutter and review the results. Hope that will help to improve your night shots.

What's that on the left hand side of your second pic?:bigeyes:

Vignetting on second pic.
 

Try shooting at ISO 200 to keep noise levels down. I also notice you're shooting at f4.5 & f3.5. If you are already using a tripod, and you expect exposure times are gonna be long, you ought to stop down to a smaller aperture to maximise DOF and take advantage of the aperture that will give optimum sharpness.

Forget the auto modes as bro istDes has suggested. Shooting in low light can be a hit or miss affair and it is easy for any camera's built-in meter to get it wrong. Bracketing can be useful if you don't want to use manual mode. Can play around with WB settings too.
 

The problem with auto mode is that the camera will sample light levels and if it sees a bright source then it will set shutter speed/apeture according to what it thinks is correct. Try M mode next time, take a few shots with the different apenture and shutter and review the results. Hope that will help to improve your night shots.

What's that on the left hand side of your second pic?:bigeyes:

Vignetting on second pic.


yeah...now that you mention it, I do see the vignetting now...:(
the item on the left is my friend's tripod...heh heh...
 

Try shooting at ISO 200 to keep noise levels down. I also notice you're shooting at f4.5 & f3.5. If you are already using a tripod, and you expect exposure times are gonna be long, you ought to stop down to a smaller aperture to maximise DOF and take advantage of the aperture that will give optimum sharpness.

Forget the auto modes as bro istDes has suggested. Shooting in low light can be a hit or miss affair and it is easy for any camera's built-in meter to get it wrong. Bracketing can be useful if you don't want to use manual mode. Can play around with WB settings too.

thanls creampuff....but why would WB setting be important for such dark shots? How do I know what to set if this is the case?
thanks
 

thanls creampuff....but why would WB setting be important for such dark shots? How do I know what to set if this is the case?
thanks
You'll get different colours, try it at City Hall one night and you'd probably get what he means, hehe. Effectively at night you get free-style as to what sort of colours you'd want out of the shot, WB effectively acts as a warming/cooling filter in such cases, for example for cool colours use Tungsten WB, for warmer colours use Cloudy - not advisable to use Shade, probably too warm.

Most night shots would have any of the three fluorescent WBs that Pentax has on the K100D, Tungsten also works pretty fine at the very early hours or very late hours where there is hardly any light.

In any case, if you shoot in RAW, what I like to do is just use the Auto WB option, because at home you get a free choice as to what WB you want when you process it; Auto WB simply gives you an additional option of the shades/tones/hues you want. =)
 

Bingo! night86mare explanation is spot on. Thanks bro. :)
(...kowtows to acknowledged Pentax IR & landscape master)
 

taken with my "new" 50mm f2 bought from airconvent

748130461_8f9d70f383.jpg
 

taken with my "new" 50mm f2 bought from airconvent

748130461_8f9d70f383.jpg

Nice shot! Did you take this using the ist? I only used the lens on my K1000 and only for 1 or 2 occasions before my 50 f/1.7 arrived...:)
 

Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top