Bonsai Study
K100D Voigtlander Macro Apo-Lanthar 125mm
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Looks like you enjoying using the Voigtlander Macro Apo-Lanthar 125mm. Thanks for sharing.![]()
f/11, 1/20s, iso 100. The exif data are intact with the photo.![]()
wondering the same thing :think:huh? how is it possible at those settings the image can come out so bright? :think:
huh? how is it possible at those settings the image can come out so bright? :think:
Mine would have resulted in very dark image.
BTW, ISO100...just realised its a K10D image cos the K100 only has ISO200...heh heh
wondering the same thing :think:
It's bright because i have pushed up the brightness during Raw conversion.
Thanks istDes,
Even unprocessed it looks pretty decent. I noticed in auto mode, my camera would switch to the widest (f/1.4 or f/2.8) under those conditions and around f.5.6 and still the photos came out dim...Here are 2 examples.
This one taken using my old istDL, ISO200, f/4.5, 1/3 s. It looks dark.
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r265/airconvent/Test Shots/IMGP1288.jpg
Meawhile this one was taken at ISO1600, f/3.5, 1/13 sec. This should be much brigher than your shot but in the end...
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r265/airconvent/Test Shots/IMGP1237.jpg
cheers
The problem with auto mode is that the camera will sample light levels and if it sees a bright source then it will set shutter speed/apeture according to what it thinks is correct. Try M mode next time, take a few shots with the different apenture and shutter and review the results. Hope that will help to improve your night shots.
What's that on the left hand side of your second pic?:bigeyes:
Vignetting on second pic.
Try shooting at ISO 200 to keep noise levels down. I also notice you're shooting at f4.5 & f3.5. If you are already using a tripod, and you expect exposure times are gonna be long, you ought to stop down to a smaller aperture to maximise DOF and take advantage of the aperture that will give optimum sharpness.
Forget the auto modes as bro istDes has suggested. Shooting in low light can be a hit or miss affair and it is easy for any camera's built-in meter to get it wrong. Bracketing can be useful if you don't want to use manual mode. Can play around with WB settings too.
You'll get different colours, try it at City Hall one night and you'd probably get what he means, hehe. Effectively at night you get free-style as to what sort of colours you'd want out of the shot, WB effectively acts as a warming/cooling filter in such cases, for example for cool colours use Tungsten WB, for warmer colours use Cloudy - not advisable to use Shade, probably too warm.thanls creampuff....but why would WB setting be important for such dark shots? How do I know what to set if this is the case?
thanks
taken with my "new" 50mm f2 bought from airconvent
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