Wow...Nice pano shot and the rest of the pics are equally good!
Pictures from LX3 for technical discussion - part II
- Thread starter ziploc
- Start date
Wow...Nice pano shot and the rest of the pics are equally good!
cantshoot4nuts
New Member
How did you get the cat to 'smile' like that? :bsmilie:
andrewtansj
Senior Member
jasonlcs
New Member
This is a wonderful shot of this cat.
Very nice, very beautiful.
:thumbsup:
I realised that under good lighting, you can take nice and sharp feline imagery.
Very nice, very beautiful.
:thumbsup:
I realised that under good lighting, you can take nice and sharp feline imagery.
thanks
:bsmilie: actually it was yawning...
Superb pano! LX3 doesn't have any stitch assistance built in right? So how did you estimate how much to take for each shot? (i'm assuming its a stitched pano right?) I'm guessing you need to FE the shots as well?
As for the 2nd one with the dragon playground, did u do pp? coz the old film effect does look a bit like its off white balance, but that was the intent right?
LatinLatio
New Member
Taken with ISO400 @ f2, resize & increase brightness & contrast & finally crop.
andrewtansj
Senior Member
thanks
thanks, just roughly estimate the overlap. 'FE' fisheye? i just stitched the images and corrected some of the verticals. yes, color for the 2nd one was intended.
thanks, just roughly estimate the overlap. 'FE' fisheye? i just stitched the images and corrected some of the verticals. yes, color for the 2nd one was intended.
haha eh Fixed Exposure
cool so was the colour effect done pp or did u use some scene setting or custom WB on the camera? Thanks for the info! :bsmilie:pardon my question, how do you meter before u re-compose? I thought metering is automatic on LX3?
White Clouds & Blue Sky
Mode: iA
Exposure: 0.001 sec (1/1000)
Aperture: f/5.0
Focal Length: 5.1 mm
ISO Speed: 80
Exposure Bias: 0 EV
Flash: Off
WB: Auto
PP: Yes
Crop: Yes
Metered the sky first before re-composing.
Thanks for viewing.
jasonlcs
New Member
In most typical scenarios, people just aim at the scene, look at the LCD and
press the shutter. But there is a situation here, the sky is bright and the tower
is slightly darker. If you aim at the tower and shoot, you will get overexposed
sky (very bright blue & clouds with no details).
You aim (and half press shutter) at the skies first to meter properly for the
skies and shift to re-compose. Of course, you can use other modes but I
was testing how intelligent is "Intelligent Auto".
By the way, I switched on "AF Tracking Function" (pg 46) for the shot.
cantshoot4nuts
New Member
This is a new thing I learnt. All the while I thought I should meter the darker area then recompose so that the darker areas gets into the picture. heh heh...
Thanks for the explanation.
When you said you're using AF tracking, this means your focus is on the sky then and not the building?
When you said you're using AF tracking, this means your focus is on the sky then and not the building?
In most typical scenarios, people just aim at the scene, look at the LCD and
press the shutter. But there is a situation here, the sky is bright and the tower
is slightly darker. If you aim at the tower and shoot, you will get overexposed
sky (very bright blue & clouds with no details).
You aim (and half press shutter) at the skies first to meter properly for the
skies and shift to re-compose. Of course, you can use other modes but I
was testing how intelligent is "Intelligent Auto".
By the way, I switched on "AF Tracking Function" (pg 46) for the shot.
Because the dynamic range (range of brightest to darkest) of any camera is limited compared to our incredible eyes, you have to decide which parts of the picture you want to retain details, so it depends entirely on what you want to keep and what you can sacrifice. Classic example is bright sky and darker buildings etc, if you meter the darker areas of the buildings you risk overexposing the sky and losing cloud details; the other way is to meter the sky and end up possibly underexposing building details. Either way is fine and it depends entirely on what you think is the most important, like if the sky looks incredible and the buildings worth sacrificing then do so, or if the sky is boring and too cloudy etc, just sacrifice the sky and keep less of it in your composition. Hope this is useful
Of course there's all the workarounds like multi-exposure, HDR etc, but sometimes its just too much trouble I think haha
Oh yes just to add on, if you're into post processing, I think its always better to underexpose (i.e. meter the sky) than to overexpose, coz anything that's dark can still have recoverable info, but washed out parts are gone forever. But again if the sky is boring its probably not worth it. There's always the issue of noise and how natural it'll look etc too.
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Hi! Just wanted to know the current market price for LX3? Just checked it out at Best Denki yesterday and was selling at $799 with 8Gig Card and pouch. Read in some posts here from last year that can get at $680 at Harvey Norman. Can anyone recommend any good deal? Thks a million!
Go to this thread:
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5023755#post5023755
I bought mine in APSL at 679. Top-up 50 to get the leather case instead of the free one.
johnjohn1989
Member
what is pano?
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