When taking frames, do you shift position of camera or just turn the direction camera is pointing at?
Photos taken by Pentax cameras for tech. discussion - Season V
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When taking frames, do you shift position of camera or just turn the direction camera is pointing at?
Hi Philip, i use a Panosaurus to help with the pano. I'm not too familiar with the concept behind nodal point but if u just merely rotate the ballhead the image may not stitch well. If u do not wish to invest in a pano head, it should be able to stitch if the lines are not too near to u. There are ways to shift camera, i heard, to approximately get the same as you would with a pano head but i'm not too sure.
With the panosaurus it is relatively easy to do pano and i usually just rotate by 30-50 degrees and usually stitch fine. That said, my own nits about it is the composition but thats a different matter altogether, from what you are asking.
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Thx bro. I just bought this lens and f50 f1.4. I am very surprised the results it produced. Gonna keep my 1st 2 f series lens. Thx again bro. Will post some pics soon. Cheers
Thanks.
2nd sunrise (another location) shot yesterday morning.
This shot I'm using bulb mode and due to answering a call, I over exposed by about 10 sec.
Sheares Bridge Sunrise by kengoh8888, on Flickr
Other shots:
http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/...landscape-sunrise-sunset-june-aug-2013-a.html
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a few recent ones taken with the k-30 and sigma 10-20mm
last one is a 3 image stitch/2 frames each
last one is a 3 image stitch/2 frames each
Ah I just saw this.Hi Philip, i use a Panosaurus to help with the pano. I'm not too familiar with the concept behind nodal point but if u just merely rotate the ballhead the image may not stitch well. If u do not wish to invest in a pano head, it should be able to stitch if the lines are not too near to u. There are ways to shift camera, i heard, to approximately get the same as you would with a pano head but i'm not too sure.
With the panosaurus it is relatively easy to do pano and i usually just rotate by 30-50 degrees and usually stitch fine. That said, my own nits about it is the composition but thats a different matter altogether, from what you are asking.
As mentioned during the session yesterday, the nodal point is simply put, the magical point at which there is no parallax error. So if you line up two lines in the frame and move the camera about the nodal point, they will stay in line. So you can imagine - if they are out of line, how this would wreck havoc for the poor poor stitching program. One frame, there are things in line, the other frame, they are not. But if everything remains as they are across frames then stitching becomes a breeze.
If you are not shooting a composition where there are things in the frame closer than 2m (e.g. cityscapes) then one option is a simple levelling base + panballhead where you ensure that the base of the panballhead is level and pan. I've used this often and it stitches ok. Do note that vertical frames should optimally make use of a L plate to minimize shifting of the camera and minimize parallax error. Of course, if far away enough it will still stitch ok. The alternative is to reverse the order and have a panning plate mounted on top of a panballhead. Same principle.
If you do multirow, there's no buts about it, you need a panoramic head.
There are many types of panoramic head available, particularly for fisheye, you can see Nodal Ninja for panning clamp that clamp the lenses. Pretty darn cool.
Thanks edutilos for great clear description, I never done stitching before at all, but was thinking of the parallax problem in my mind, now I know far away objects or lines are not a problem, thanks. (> 2m )
Yes, I saw a fellow Pentaxian had an L plate on his GRIV , was planning to search for one for vertical pano by just moving the pan base of ball head on a stable tripod.
Did you said to keep the maximum vertical frames to 3 ? Ok I think I will try first then if any questions or problem post to get help.
Thanks again.
Yes, I saw a fellow Pentaxian had an L plate on his GRIV , was planning to search for one for vertical pano by just moving the pan base of ball head on a stable tripod.
Did you said to keep the maximum vertical frames to 3 ? Ok I think I will try first then if any questions or problem post to get help.
Thanks again.
Nope, but if you don't want straight lines to be curved, then the FOV should not exceed 3 frames w 10mm perspective.. From experience. You would need more than linear stitch (there are many ways to stitch) which results in lines being curved, etc.
One from the Flyer, taken after the session on Sunday.. Blended with 2 shots. Like I was sharing with seefei, I still miss the K20D's slide-like output now and then.. But it's a small price to pay for the great high ISO capabilities of the K5. ISO1250.
Just to add on, i've tried 6 vertical frames in a row and it stitches well with 2 rows. Should be 10 mm iirc. But thats rare coz i think keeping it simple is still preferable.
Oh and the programme didnt stitch well because it was level for the left and centre frame and somehow the right frame was slightly off. Result of a hasty setting up. Always arrive early. Hahahaha.
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One from the Flyer, taken after the session on Sunday.. Blended with 2 shots. Like I was sharing with seefei, I still miss the K20D's slide-like output now and then.. But it's a small price to pay for the great high ISO capabilities of the K5. ISO1250.
this one is really fantastic. is this handheld (can't imagine you had a tripod open in there)?
Handheld, 1/6 second and 1/15 seconds @ F/5.
Tripod no use... Need to press lens against the glass and shield off reflections by hand, no time to fiddle with a tripod.
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