Photos taken by Pentax cameras for tech. discussion - Season I


:think: the reflection is not efficient enough... too much light absorbed while it bounces around. thats why need full power...

maybe u can consider using fibre optic cables instead?

similar to this concept, http://hackedgadgets.com/2009/02/06/diy-fiber-optic-camera-flash-ring/

but bunch the cables together to split the output of your YN in 2 directions instead.

Nice link, thanks bro. Did you use led/macro ring flash? From the eyes' reflection can see circle light source.
 

Nice link, thanks bro. Did you use led/macro ring flash? From the eyes' reflection can see circle light source.

nope. this one was with K-X pop-up flash with hot-shoe diffuser.
 

On one hand you have Fengwei poisoning people with this FA 77mm portraits, and on the other you have kengoh poisoning people with his DA*300mm...

Wonderful bird shots, it takes a special kind of patience and skill to shoot them so well!

Low iso looks even better than your usual high iso ones! The detail in the feathers is just :thumbsup:

Thanks guys for the kind comments. :)
 

Can I join? ; )

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The rest are here : http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=800329

Wow! we have a tri-some.:bsmilie:
 

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All photo taken at the recent Anime Festival 2010 using my k-x with 18-55 kit lens.
Decide to post here so as to seek some advice from all the "shifu" here.
(I'm also an anime fan and will often go to such event. Seeing so many good photos around, sometimes i find my photo is not that good. Improving needed!)

All were taken using Sv mode. I wonder why when i use AV mode, the iso kept went up to 3200 and above(mayb due to the lighting condition?)
so i got to limit my iso using Sv. In-Build Flash was used also.

Photo were taken in RAW and did abit of PP using camera raw.

Please dun mind the same person as i cant stop hitting my shutter when i saw her:embrass:


1)
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2)
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3)
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4)
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There are more here http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=796815
 

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another awesome one by Marcus :thumbsup: love to get that lens one day :)

Donald, your vivitar 105 is capable to producing similar bokeh. Voigtlander is more than 2X the cost of vivitar. I still think vivitar is value for money, likewise many other macro lens like bokina, tamron, sigma or pentax wr 100.:)

marcus
 

Donald, your vivitar 105 is capable to producing similar bokeh. Voigtlander is more than 2X the cost of vivitar. I still think vivitar is value for money, likewise many other macro lens like bokina, tamron, sigma or pentax wr 100.:)

marcus

I know ;p but I want to collect leh :bsmilie:
 

Another attempt at sunset, took yesterday at macritchie reservoir.

IMGP0886.JPG


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And my first attempt to create a panorama. Any idea how to create better panorama? I can't remove the joint part.

panorama.jpg
 

at such slow speed and shallow f-stop, the image is sharp. awesome :thumbsup:

the colour abit yellowish, though... shot w the K-x? :think:


With monopod at very low angle and slow shutter to capture ambient light:)

Actually I bump some highlights using picassa. Huh, maybe the robberfly has jaundice:bsmilie:

K10d, tks Seefei.

marcus
 

Some 'portraits' of the Man of Steel:

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And my first attempt to create a panorama. Any idea how to create better panorama? I can't remove the joint part.

panorama.jpg

Can let us know what software you were using to stitch the pano? I'm guessing based on the pic, it seems like you have a few possible problems here.

- You might have shot the pics with a wide angle lens. The perspective distortion will make stitching more difficult. This is made worse by the inclusion of foreground objects that are at close proximity to your position.

- There seems to be pretty uneven exposure in the pics. It could be due to vignetting. Or if the exposure time is long, the rapidly changing lighting condition of the sunset will show up as you move from pic to pic.

A good stitching software can help take care of minor distortion or minor exposure differences, but the pics can't be too far off the mark. I'd say try shooting in more consistent lighting condition first (like daytime, or nighttime), make sure you use M mode (I'd suggest MF as well, though not necessary) and give 1/4 to 1/3 frame overlap between each pic. Use normal or tele lens instead of WA, and try for a scene with just faraway objects first. If there's vignetting on your lens, stop down a bit more.

There're special panoramic heads for tripods, but I think (may be wrong here) you only really need them if you want to include nearby objects and have them line up nicely. I shoot panos of distant objects handheld or with a normal ballhead all the time, and they turn out ok, so I'm not too fussed about that.
 

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Can let us know what software you were using to stitch the pano? I'm guessing based on the pic, it seems like you have a few possible problems here.

- You might have shot the pics with a wide angle lens. The perspective distortion will make stitching more difficult. This is made worse by the inclusion of foreground objects that are at close proximity to your position.

- There seems to be pretty uneven exposure in the pics. It could be due to vignetting. Or if the exposure time is long, the rapidly changing lighting condition of the sunset will show up as you move from pic to pic.

A good stitching software can help take care of minor distortion or minor exposure differences, but the pics can't be too far off the mark. I'd say try shooting in more consistent lighting condition first (like daytime, or nighttime), make sure you use M mode (I'd suggest MF as well, though not necessary) and give 1/4 to 1/3 frame overlap between each pic. Use normal or tele lens instead of WA, and try for a scene with just faraway objects first. If there's vignetting on your lens, stop down a bit more.

There're special panoramic heads for tripods, but I think (may be wrong here) you only really need them if you want to include nearby objects and have them line up nicely. I shoot panos of distant objects handheld or with a normal ballhead all the time, and they turn out ok, so I'm not too fussed about that.

Hi, I use Adobe Photoshop CS. The picture was taken using DA 16-45mm at 24mm, in M mode with same shutter, aperture, and ISO (10s, f11, ISO 100). Perhaps the shutter speed is too long for sunset, so the exposures are different. I'll try again at daytime/nightime. Thanks alot :)
 

Hi, I use Adobe Photoshop CS. The picture was taken using DA 16-45mm at 24mm, in M mode with same shutter, aperture, and ISO (10s, f11, ISO 100). Perhaps the shutter speed is too long for sunset, so the exposures are different. I'll try again at daytime/nightime. Thanks alot :)

You're welcome :). I tried something similar not long ago. It was dusk, past sunset, but the light in the sky was still fading by the minute.

f/10, 15s, iso100, stitched from 7 pics with PS Elements 6.
1089747276_nYaPE-X2.jpg


I compensated for the fading light by adding -0.3 to +0.4 ev on each pic progressively across the scene when converting from raw. Was initially afraid that it would make the sky even, but end up having the lights from the restaurants grow brighter across the scene. Luckily that didn't happen (or is not too obvious :p).

It was a nice exercise in pano under fading light, unfortunately I don't quite like how the overall pic turned out. Too bad Clark Quay isn't curved the other way. :dunno:
 


u stitch manually in CS ? else it will not look like that... which CS version u using ? 4 and above should have the automeagre funcition.. else can use Ptgui, there is also this nodal point you have to take note of... just google nodal or nodal rail...
 

You're welcome :)

f/10, 15s, iso100, stitched from 7 pics with PS Elements 6.
1089747276_nYaPE-X2.jpg

Bro very nice job with good exposure. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

You're welcome : ). I tried something similar not long ago. It was dusk, past sunset, but the light in the sky was still fading by the minute.

f/10, 15s, iso100, stitched from 7 pics with PS Elements 6.
1089747276_nYaPE-X2.jpg


I compensated for the fading light by adding -0.3 to +0.4 ev on each pic progressively across the scene when converting from raw. Was initially afraid that it would make the sky even, but end up having the lights from the restaurants grow brighter across the scene. Luckily that didn't happen (or is not too obvious : p).

It was a nice exercise in pano under fading light, unfortunately I don't quite like how the overall pic turned out. Too bad Clark Quay isn't curved the other way. :dunno:

:bigeyes: lovely panorama :thumbsup:

u stitch manually in CS ? else it will not look like that... which CS version u using ? 4 and above should have the automeagre funcition.. else can use Ptgui, there is also this nodal point you have to take note of... just google nodal or nodal rail...

The Adobe CS first version, it has "Photomerge" function to create pano pic, but I need to manually adjust the arrangement.

http://www.rickbakerimages.com/photography_advice/photomerge_panoramics5.html

It seems I won't be able to remove the diagonal band automatically with Adobe CS 1, need to use "Patch" and "Clone Stamp". Perhaps I need to buy the "student' version of Adobe Photoshop CS5 :bsmilie:
 

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