Anthony Lee
Senior Member
The OM 35-70f3.6 never fail to impress me and it's now my major lens for casual outing. This was shot last Sat at botanic gdns.
OM 35-70f3.6 at f5.6 on 5D.
OM 35-70f3.6 at f5.6 on 5D.
OM , OM1 , OM2 , OM2N , OM3 , OM4 photo-sharing and possible meetups
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Yay, I got my Olympus OM1n, refurbished, meter recalibrated to 1.5V battery, sparkling inside my room! OMG can't wait to bring it out to have it in action!
But it brings me to another question, should I sell my OM2n...? Keeping 2 seems irrational. OM2n led me into the world of Olympus Zuiko, and there certainly is some sentimental value to it... Again, why do I need 2 similar cameras? Mount on different Zuikos with different films?
Your advice?
But it brings me to another question, should I sell my OM2n...? Keeping 2 seems irrational. OM2n led me into the world of Olympus Zuiko, and there certainly is some sentimental value to it... Again, why do I need 2 similar cameras? Mount on different Zuikos with different films?
Your advice?
Anthony Lee
Senior Member
Great. you should keep both to use different films. Can you explain what you meant by "meter recalibrated to 1.5V battery"? Thanks.
one for shooting, the other for self defence =P. well, its always nice to have 1 for BW, 1 for colour. maybe a third for slide? =P
speaking of omg... i have an olympus OMG(thats the model name). quite funny haha.
To anthony:
the older cameras worked on a 1.35v mercury battery. he's probably got it calibrated to the new 1.5v. usually makes about .3-.7 stops difference depending on camera model. but if u shoot negatives, then its usually not an issue. you can do this mob yourself if u want... you ll need a schotky 1n5711 diode from simlim square... about 20-30cents a piece.
instructions here: http://www.rokkorfiles.com/conversion.htm not the exact camera, but it works all the same.
The OM1s are a joy to use
Did you send your camera to John Hermanson at CamTech for calibration? Or did you do that locally?Shawn
The OM1s are a joy to use
Shawn
Ha, I didn't send it to CamTech... I bought it from a guy called John Titterington in eBay. Seems experienced enough to do that as I did a google search about him and so far seems like feedbacks are positive. I haven't started using but the cosmetic condition of the camera definitely already is quite convincing! Comes with the original strap, oh so vintage!
Here's a shot using my iPhone's instagram:
My lovely new/old OM1n by kanki su, on Flickr
sweet....
i chanced on one with 55 3.5 macro, flash hot shoe and the original brochures, manual and unfilled warranty card. maybe i ll make some scans and share the cool stuff here.
Ha, I didn't send it to CamTech... I bought it from a guy called John Titterington in eBay. Seems experienced enough to do that as I did a google search about him and so far seems like feedbacks are positive. I haven't started using but the cosmetic condition of the camera definitely already is quite convincing! Comes with the original strap, oh so vintage!
Here's a shot using my iPhone's instagram:
My lovely new/old OM1n by kanki su, on Flickr
Ahhhh I have used that guy before for quite a few cameras, he is very good.
Much cheaper than CamTech, but quality shouldn't be too far off anyway. Very nice OM1, I brought mine out today, and still am surprised how light it was, even with the 28mm f2 on.Ahhhh I have used that guy before for quite a few cameras, he is very good.
You mean Titterington? Yeah his service is good and fast. I regret not to buy the 50mm f/1.8 lens from him as extra backup lens now!
Sometimes I'm split between 28 f2 and 50 f1.4... both are my favourite lenses! I haven't even used the 100 f2.8 i just bought last month!
I think I lost my shoe 4...:bheart: I don't know where I had misplaced the shoes... Now it's nowhere to be found. The one u got is an OM1n as well?
Hi Kanki,
Yes I mean titterington.
Just bring out both if you can, or you could do a 28/100 combo, that is..if you have enough space in that bag. Opens out room for possibilities. Anyway, the flash hot shoes of the OMs are always in a state of cracking or disintegrating due to age or overtightening. I have one that is perfect, and usually take it out as i find it sticks into my forehead whenever i bring the camera up to focus.You can get the Weincell replacements, which are available on eBay...Alternatively, you can get a camera tech to calibrate the camera to suit modern 1.5V batteries?
i think i got the om 1. cant find an 'n' on it.
i use SR44 (silver oxide) 1.5v batt. the voltage output is more consistent that LR44. then check yr meter with yr dslr. the difference it constant over the exposure range so just need to compensate about 1/3 stop thru the iso scale. eg, set iso 125 instead of 100 for 100 film.
i actually see no real difference when using with my nikomat FTN so i don't think its worth the extra cost of getting the original batt
it might also be v simple to do the adjustment yrself. i ll check n let you guys know
to add on:
i ve checked my om-1, and the variable resistor is only accessible thru the top plate which might be abit more difficult if yr new to this. however, the battery compartment is very easily accessible and there is more than enough space (alot actually) for you to put in the schottky diode to reduce the input voltage from 1.5v to about 1.35v.
have a good read of this first. i ve posted it before but just incase any of u guys missed it. http://www.rokkorfiles.com/conversion.htm
you ll need the diode (1N5711 Schottky Diode. about 30c from simlim tower, not square), a + screw driver and a soldering iron.
remove the 4 screws holding the base plate on, and you will see this:
the brown wire at the bottom right hand corner is the one we're interested in (under the batt compartment)
now unscrew the 2 screws holding the batt compartment in. they re at the 10 and 5 o clock position.
you can then take the compartment out and remove the (-) battery contact. you ll get something like this :
the diode goes in between the brown wire and the battery contact. there is alot of space (compared to other cameras) so its not a difficult job to do. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE POLARITY right. if not yr meter wont work at all and you gotta do it all over again. i would post examples of the completed product, but i dont have the stuff i need with me now.
please be aware that the battery casing is used to hold the film take up spool. make sure it is properly lined up before putting it back in.
if this is too much for you to do, just remove the bottom plate and battery contact, then bring the camera to one of the vendors in simlim tower and ask them to help you solder. it shouldnt cost more than $5 or so. i ll try to draw up a diagram and post it up soon so it ll be easier to understand.
this wills ave you ALOT of $. cos usually the shops will charge you the full CLA even if u want just this mod.
hope it helps =)
just a disclaimer(i really wish i din need to put this but sometimes **** happens): i post this as a GUIDE to what you need to do. i do not assure 100% results as it depends on your workmanship. and action taken on yr part is at your own risk and i will not be held liable for any damage to your camera(very unlikely) nor any injury to yrself.
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Anthony Lee
Senior Member
i think i got the om 1. cant find an 'n' on it.
i use SR44 (silver oxide) 1.5v batt. the voltage output is more consistent that LR44. then check yr meter with yr dslr. the difference it constant over the exposure range so just need to compensate about 1/3 stop thru the iso scale. eg, set iso 125 instead of 100 for 100 film.
i actually see no real difference when using with my nikomat FTN so i don't think its worth the extra cost of getting the original batt
it might also be v simple to do the adjustment yrself. i ll check n let you guys know
to add on:
i ve checked my om-1, and the variable resistor is only accessible thru the top plate which might be abit more difficult if yr new to this. however, the battery compartment is very easily accessible and there is more than enough space (alot actually) for you to put in the schottky diode to reduce the input voltage from 1.5v to about 1.35v.
have a good read of this first. i ve posted it before but just incase any of u guys missed it. http://www.rokkorfiles.com/conversion.htm
you ll need the diode (1N5711 Schottky Diode. about 30c from simlim tower, not square), a + screw driver and a soldering iron.
remove the 4 screws holding the base plate on, and you will see this:
the brown wire at the bottom right hand corner is the one we're interested in (under the batt compartment)
now unscrew the 2 screws holding the batt compartment in. they re at the 10 and 5 o clock position.
you can then take the compartment out and remove the (-) battery contact. you ll get something like this :
the diode goes in between the brown wire and the battery contact. there is alot of space (compared to other cameras) so its not a difficult job to do. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE POLARITY right. if not yr meter wont work at all and you gotta do it all over again. i would post examples of the completed product, but i dont have the stuff i need with me now.
please be aware that the battery casing is used to hold the film take up spool. make sure it is properly lined up before putting it back in.
if this is too much for you to do, just remove the bottom plate and battery contact, then bring the camera to one of the vendors in simlim tower and ask them to help you solder. it shouldnt cost more than $5 or so. i ll try to draw up a diagram and post it up soon so it ll be easier to understand.
this wills ave you ALOT of $. cos usually the shops will charge you the full CLA even if u want just this mod.
hope it helps =)
just a disclaimer(i really wish i din need to put this but sometimes **** happens): i post this as a GUIDE to what you need to do. i do not assure 100% results as it depends on your workmanship. and action taken on yr part is at your own risk and i will not be held liable for any damage to your camera(very unlikely) nor any injury to yrself.
HI Ben,
Really appreciate this information and tutorial. I use LR44 batteries and I have to set ISO 200 for ISO 100 film on my OM-2SP. Do you have any idea whether this modification is the same with the OM-2SP. Thanks once again.
no problem. the mod will work for any camera that used a mercury 1.35v batt. if yr camera used 2*1.35v battery, then just put 2 diodes. the diode will take away 0.15v. im not sure about the internal layout of the om 2sp, but if u put the diodes in the right spot it ll work.
i think it varies from camera to camera. best to check the exposure with your dslr and see how. use a blank wall with even lighting and try to get same fl lens so that differences in the metering system don't affect.
anyway, heres the diagram. hope it makes things clearer.
A) shows which screws to remove, B is to show what the diode looks like. there is a black(sometimes red) band which indicates the + side. this side connects directly to the (-) battery contact. if u put it in the wrong way, it wont work.
and C shows what it should look like finally before you put everything back together. just make sure that any bare wire doesnt touch the camera casing cos the casing is the (+) terminal. you can use black tape and tape over the whole diode and any bare wire before putting it in. you can also coat the bare wire in white glue and let it dry out. thats a very good insulator.
as mentioned before, if you re not confident but understand exactly what to do, you can bring to a shop at simlim tower and explain to them to help you do. i usually go to the basement. alot of nice ppl there.
FOR ALL OTHER CAMERAS: please make sure you put it on the negative battery terminal. the (-) side is the start of the circuit. if u put it on the + side, it wont make a difference cos thats the end of the circuit.
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Anthony Lee
Senior Member
Suggest you scroll down to "market Place/ Price guides" and surf this section. Most shops mentioned in the price guides are reliable, email them to find out the availability and price of items you need.
Welcome.
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