Newbie Starting film

[azzurri]

I have a question about the Leica M6. It seems that there are a few versions like M6 0.72, M6 0.58....could anyone enlighten me the difference. Thanks.

have a look here for an explanation on the various versions of the m6.

basically, the 0.58, 0.72 and 0.85 refers to the magnification of the viewfinder. generally, the lower magnification helps with wider lenses. if i've not mistaken, the 0.85 doesnt come with the 28mm framelines.

other version of the m6 is the m6 ttl. it's basically an m6 that has ttl flash and a >o< meter readout as opposed to the m6's ><.

 

[Yoricko]

Thanks to you and royal cheese. I have a better understanding of zone focusing and hyperfocal focusing. May I say that for zone focusing, it is used to focus on very near objects and also if you want shallow dof. For hyperfocal it is used for when you want almost everything sharp (excluding fast moving objects). I am thinking purchasing a Bessa R4 and a Leica 28mm f/2.8 Elmarit lens, would this be a good combo? Does anyone have experience with the results of this leica lens?

No, no. Zone focusing is basically distance guessing, and then adjust the focus ring based on your estimate. In my terms~ of Hyperfocal focusing (some people have different ideas about this word), it is similar to zone focusing but it is used to calculated the aperture value required for sufficient depth of field (by guessing the distance as well).

Hi royale with cheese, I saw your photos in flickr....impressive b & w. I see that you push the Tri-X 400 to 1600. What is the purpose of this and how do you process it? May I also know in your street shots, do you zone focus first before shooting especially for close subjects? Thanks for the enlightenment.

Pushing film only develops the brighter parts of the film and leave the dark areas with little activity. You can push to 25,600 if you want, you'd just have to accept detail-ess velvet black.

I will zone focus or pre-focus if I anticipate something. At night, I will avoid zone focusing (thin depth of field). I take about 0.4-0.6 seconds to focus with the rangefinder (using a 35mm &#402;2).

 

[Royale With Cheese]

Hi royale with cheese, I saw your photos in flickr....impressive b & w. I see that you push the Tri-X 400 to 1600. What is the purpose of this and how do you process it? May I also know in your street shots, do you zone focus first before shooting especially for close subjects? Thanks for the enlightenment.

Thanks.

Tri-X 400 to 1600 is lazy reasons :bsmilie:

On daylight, set my 35mm lens to F22, from 1meter to infinity, all in focus, zone focusing So basically the RF camera becomes a point & shoot.

Also I like the low details, dark images from the high contrast by pushing the film. I've tried color filters, contrast not as shoik as pushing the film.

I process the film at home myself, got the developing chemicals & kit at home. I use Kodak HC-110 for my B&W.

For close subjects depends, for daylight mostly its zone focusing. Night I go fully manual

 

[andrewtanjk]

Thanks.

Tri-X 400 to 1600 is lazy reasons :bsmilie:

On daylight, set my 35mm lens to F22, from 1meter to infinity, all in focus, zone focusing So basically the RF camera becomes a point & shoot.

Also I like the low details, dark images from the high contrast by pushing the film. I've tried color filters, contrast not as shoik as pushing the film.

I process the film at home myself, got the developing chemicals & kit at home. I use Kodak HC-110 for my B&W.

For close subjects depends, for daylight mostly its zone focusing. Night I go fully manual

Thanks for sharing your methods, it's invaluable.

So, correct me if I'm wrong.

In order to push film from 400 to 1600, i assume that you will set your ISO to 1600 in the camera setting,
and then process it as if it was set at 400?

and the effect of this is a higher contrast B&W image with little noise and without filters, great!
Therefore, if you want to use high ISO without the grainy effect, use the push method instead of getting a fast ISO1600 film?

 

[Royale With Cheese]

Thanks for sharing your methods, it's invaluable.

So, correct me if I'm wrong.

In order to push film from 400 to 1600, i assume that you will set your ISO to 1600 in the camera setting,
and then process it as if it was set at 400?

and the effect of this is a higher contrast B&W image with little noise and without filters, great!
Therefore, if you want to use high ISO without the grainy effect, use the push method instead of getting a fast ISO1600 film?

Yep, camera is set to asa1600. I process my film at 1600. There is no such thing as noise for film photography, only fine or coarse grain. Noise is a different thing all together.

High asa films are not really grainy as most think.

Superia 1600
http://www.flickr.com/photos/agnosticgary/4554496117/#

See, not grainy as most ppl think it would be.

Kodak Tri-X 400 pushed to 1600 with very mild gentle agitation
http://www.flickr.com/photos/agnosticgary/5051690536/

Kodak Tri-X400 pushed to 1600 with pretty strong agitation, very grainy stuff.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/agnosticgary/5030024648/

 

[andrewtanjk]

I will be travelling overseas and wondering how do i carry unprocessed film safely to the plane?

 

[pixelbrain]

I will be travelling overseas and wondering how do i carry unprocessed film safely to the plane?

just bring it in your handcarry.. most if not all scanners for heldheld luggage are film safe..

my films went thru the scanners at least 10 times during my last europe trip, and turned out fine..

 

[andrewtanjk]

just bring it in your handcarry.. most if not all scanners for heldheld luggage are film safe..

my films went thru the scanners at least 10 times during my last europe trip, and turned out fine..

Thanks, do i need to remove the film from the plastic canister and place it in transparent plastic bag?

 

[Benji77]

Nope, you dont have to do that.