Newbie Starting film


I started shooting B&W film recently. There's definitely a difference between self processed & self scanned film with those done at the shops. For once, I've to say DIY is clearly better.

The threads under traditional darkroom section is a good place to start reading how to self processed? a fellow CSer told me can even use the storeroom to process instead of having a dedicated darkroom? true?
 

Where is the RF meeting held and what time on Saturday? Is it every Saturday.
When you say that you can get to try the cameras, do you mean the member's cameras?
That would be great to go, perhaps i can get some good advice.
I have just tried the M8 and found that it has the digital feel and the photo that appears on the LCD is so-so.
Also when you zoom, it is initially pixalated, it takes a while to appear - i have only seen this in the Sony Cybershot 15 yrs ago!
So, looks like i'm back on track with film based equipment...Leica or Bessa....
What is a good scanner for film?

check out this thread for the timing & venue:
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774837

Yep, trying other member's cameras, please be careful with their darlings....

M8 the LCD is :thumbsd: Gotta view the pictures on the computer to get the full proper view.

I'm using canon 8800f, I think currently there is an updated version, canon 9000

Most of the guys use epson V700, I think its about 800++

My canon cost about 280-300, much cheaper & does a good job ;)
 

The threads under traditional darkroom section is a good place to start reading how to self processed? a fellow CSer told me can even use the storeroom to process instead of having a dedicated darkroom? true?

Hmmmm actually you dont need a dark room to process B&W film.

There are daylight tanks available & unloading of films can be done in a changing bag.

Dark room is more for wet prints on the enlarger
 

If you are NSman, just join SAFRA photography club. Development plus printing services available for use for a meagre membership at mount faber outlet.
 

I think we got bewildered by the statement “to make a digital photo film-like”. It is in my opinion pointless, simply because digital and film have different fundamentals, it is only photography that is the same thing. We need not even ‘try’ to emulate either, or detest or despise either. They can be both entertaining on their own.

When i PP a digital photo, i am merely enhancing this particular RAW photo, in order ( i Hope...) to achieve a better effect, my usual 2 decisive factors are(my memory of that shot when i fired in that instance and what i wish to portrait in this shot, and that’s all, it is never to turn a digital photo into a film look”.

Whichever RF u are ‘feeling’ now, ( yes it’s the feel..) if u think u are ready,( consider schedule, cost & mood), then just go get yourself a RF be it digital or film, just note the different work flow, process and also note that your final work will be different.

Likewise when i shoot film with a really sharp lens i have no intention to hope to get a digital effect, if they so happened to be similar, then so be it.

Welcome to RF, go get that brand that won’t depreciate much in value.. u will end up there anyway..
 

Thanks all for your replies.

I have recently tried the Leica and Bessa RFs in the shops and i must say that the manual focusing of the lens takes a while to get used to. For a stationary object, focusing is easy. For a moving object (say a person walking), how is it possible to be able to focus accurately, because in the RF we have to merge the two images to form one image for it to be in focus, which is kinda tough if an object is moving. Does the two images have to merge on the dot accurate to be in focus or is there an allowance? How if any would the aperture settings play a part in the focusing (i mean in terms of ease of focusing)? I would like to know how to deal with such situations. :dunno:

I would also like to process film myself, does anyone know where i can sign up for a darkroom processing course in Singapore?
 

I just completed shooting my first roll of film recently and went to pick up the results today.

Have to say I really like what I see.At least got feeling for me :angel:

I have been shooting on digital for the past 1 year on my d90 and now d700. Suddenly I feel like spending more time on film instead of big bodies...

Anybody in this shoes before? :bsmilie:

Started photography in flim era, now digital is my main focus, but whenever i go oversea, i always have my FM2 and a few rolls of film with me. :)
 

Thanks all for your replies.

I have recently tried the Leica and Bessa RFs in the shops and i must say that the manual focusing of the lens takes a while to get used to. For a stationary object, focusing is easy. For a moving object (say a person walking), how is it possible to be able to focus accurately, because in the RF we have to merge the two images to form one image for it to be in focus, which is kinda tough if an object is moving. Does the two images have to merge on the dot accurate to be in focus or is there an allowance? How if any would the aperture settings play a part in the focusing (i mean in terms of ease of focusing)? I would like to know how to deal with such situations. :dunno:

I would also like to process film myself, does anyone know where i can sign up for a darkroom processing course in Singapore?

ok the beauty of RF is the fundamentals of photography will apply to it which much people wouldnt pay attention to because of AF on DSLR or other modern day cameras.

Moving objects you still can capture them fast using manual focusing, just a lot of pratice to know which direction you should be turning.

The other easier matter is by using the depth of field of the lens. Zone focusing enables you to cover this. See this picture

zone-focus.jpg

Currently the lens is set to F8. Look at the DOF on the lens, 1.5m-3m, pics are in focus.
Read more here:
http://www.markushartel.com/blog/learn-from-markus/zone-focusing

Depends on what F stop you are using & the distance you are away from your object, the further you are away, DOF is wide, slight mis-focus will not affect at all. Abit hard to explain, best to meet the guys & a quick demo, its easier to understand.

Dark room processing I think objectifs does it, safra also should have. If you just want to learn how to process B&W, that one no need go for course la, youtube can already.

Unless you are out for wet printing, that one is kinda advisable to go for the course as wet room prints require a dark room etc.


A read on DOF:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field
 

Thanks all for your replies.

I have recently tried the Leica and Bessa RFs in the shops and i must say that the manual focusing of the lens takes a while to get used to. For a stationary object, focusing is easy. For a moving object (say a person walking), how is it possible to be able to focus accurately, because in the RF we have to merge the two images to form one image for it to be in focus, which is kinda tough if an object is moving. Does the two images have to merge on the dot accurate to be in focus or is there an allowance? How if any would the aperture settings play a part in the focusing (i mean in terms of ease of focusing)? I would like to know how to deal with such situations. :dunno:

I would also like to process film myself, does anyone know where i can sign up for a darkroom processing course in Singapore?

Hi andrewtanjk, welcome to the world of RF, just hyperfocus the lens to take care of moving objects, once you do that and set the exposure, the cam becomes almost a P&S. Film also have enough latitude to take care of varying light conditions, its simpler and more intuitive than you think.

Film processing? its really, really easy, check out the threads in this forum or just drop by some of the RF.SG gatherings and/or GTG, I am sure we would be happy to show you how. If you have any questions, drop me a PM, happy to help and teach you the basics.
 

Learnt something new today :)

yup... learn something new :p

But if i dont have DOF on the lens, only appearture and distance ctrl ( i using oly 35 RC ), I will just have to estimate the distance, then see target, adjust the lens and shoot?

Sigh.. i really wish i can come down join the outing this sat too... but I am catching The Millennium marathon at GV leh... :embrass:
 

yup... learn something new :p

But if i dont have DOF on the lens, only appearture and distance ctrl ( i using oly 35 RC ), I will just have to estimate the distance, then see target, adjust the lens and shoot?

Sigh.. i really wish i can come down join the outing this sat too... but I am catching The Millennium marathon at GV leh... :embrass:

Hmmm.... I'm not very sure lei, havent actually used the olympus 35rc so cant comment.

Basically you need the distance scale(shown in the pic above) to assist you. If not just manual focus all the way?

Manual focus is acutually pretty fast even for a moving object. Even faster if the throw of the focusing ring on the lens is short.

Usually for F4/F5.6/F8/F11/F16/F22, slight mis focus doesnt really matter as the dept of field is still there, depth is even "wider" if your subject is further away ;)
 

Hmmm.... I'm not very sure lei, havent actually used the olympus 35rc so cant comment.

Basically you need the distance scale(shown in the pic above) to assist you. If not just manual focus all the way?

Manual focus is acutually pretty fast even for a moving object. Even faster if the throw of the focusing ring on the lens is short.

Usually for F4/F5.6/F8/F11/F16/F22, slight mis focus doesnt really matter as the dept of field is still there, depth is even "wider" if your subject is further away ;)

ok... actually i really do enjoy MF.. my thinking is, if its a bit off, sometimes may even turn out some interesting feel? haha! just shoot and be happy! :D
 

yup... learn something new :p

But if i dont have DOF on the lens, only appearture and distance ctrl ( i using oly 35 RC ), I will just have to estimate the distance, then see target, adjust the lens and shoot?

Sigh.. i really wish i can come down join the outing this sat too... but I am catching The Millennium marathon at GV leh... :embrass:

I have a Stanley Handyman Tape rule, Contractor grade, 25 meters in length, can T loan to you. No need to estimate distance, measure will do. Accuracy is +-0.5 cm max.:bsmilie:
 

I have a Stanley Handyman Tape rule, Contractor grade, 25 meters in length, can T loan to you. No need to estimate distance, measure will do. Accuracy is +-0.5 cm max.:bsmilie:

thks.. so nice of u leh... :sticktong
 

Same here, still love shooting with film
 

I have a Stanley Handyman Tape rule, Contractor grade, 25 meters in length, can T loan to you. No need to estimate distance, measure will do. Accuracy is +-0.5 cm max.:bsmilie:

Mine a bit more advance... I use Hilti brand infra-red meter to derive at the distance! Sometimes can also calculate area and volume too! and its weather proof! ;)
 

Hi andrewtanjk, welcome to the world of RF, just hyperfocus the lens to take care of moving objects, once you do that and set the exposure, the cam becomes almost a P&S. Film also have enough latitude to take care of varying light conditions, its simpler and more intuitive than you think.

Film processing? its really, really easy, check out the threads in this forum or just drop by some of the RF.SG gatherings and/or GTG, I am sure we would be happy to show you how. If you have any questions, drop me a PM, happy to help and teach you the basics.
Thanks to you and royal cheese. I have a better understanding of zone focusing and hyperfocal focusing. May I say that for zone focusing, it is used to focus on very near objects and also if you want shallow dof. For hyperfocal it is used for when you want almost everything sharp (excluding fast moving objects). I am thinking purchasing a Bessa R4 and a Leica 28mm f/2.8 Elmarit lens, would this be a good combo? Does anyone have experience with the results of this leica lens?
 

I have a question about the Leica M6. It seems that there are a few versions like M6 0.72, M6 0.58....could anyone enlighten me the difference. Thanks.
 

Hi royale with cheese, I saw your photos in flickr....impressive b & w. I see that you push the Tri-X 400 to 1600. What is the purpose of this and how do you process it? May I also know in your street shots, do you zone focus first before shooting especially for close subjects? Thanks for the enlightenment.
 

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