You are not wrong to want a system camera ie: having interchangeable lenses.We have to be
sensitive to the person who ask these questions about what cameras are suitable.Don't want
to force our opinions down people's throats either especially newbies.There are a lot of
technical details to work out in order to buy the "right" camera.Right in what sense?
To me it's always about specifications.We all want the "best" for the little money we are
willing to pay as I'm a cheapskate..haha. After you work out the specs. then comes
the handling or ergonomics/ease of use but this is secondary to specs as when you
work within a small budget you actually don't have much choice but to accept the camera
as it is but rest assured the design have been carefully thought out by the manufacturer.
They want a saleable product.
At first when you said that your budget is between $1 - 1.5K I thought ah.. this person
wants a good first camera but when you said you are using a Xiaome smartphone then it
means you are a frugal person who don't spend frivolously.You are circumspect.
I do understand the expression " You get what you pay for", chinese equivalent is
"Pay 1 cent, get 1 cent's worth".
OK..back to the nitty gritty of camera selection.I can honestly say with your budget you
need not compromise and still get the camera new.You just need to know what's available
and the type and requirements of the pictures you want to shoot.I'll bet you'll say a
little bit of everything..haha.How is a newbie suppose to know what @#$%&! camera?
The wise master will say "Do your reasearch" or aquire the knowledge and make an informed
choice/decision.Again how does a newbie do that in a short span of time like eg. "I'm
flying off on holiday so..how?".
1. Firstly sensor size and resolution.In fact the majority of picture makers
are smartphone and point-n-shoot camera users.Can they do the job? Very much so.
P-n-S cameras can print up to 10 X 12 inches if you want to hang on the wall but majority
keep them in their PCs or burn them on recordable media to do slide shows for friends
and relatives plus share them online.We won't talk about DSLRs as they are big and heavy
although APSC sensors in compact bodies like Sony Nex/ Alpha bodies are another choice if
you so want that extra resolution and quality.Still possible with your said budget.
2.M4/3 for enthusiasts who want a small,lighter package to bring along on holiday or
carry with them to roam the streets although not necessarily lighter on their financial
pockets.For landscape with kit lens/zoom 14-42mm or 12-50mm, 35mm equivalent 28-84mm,
24-100mm respectively.At the wide angle end it's not much of a problem as greater
depth of field (DOF) and detail/sharpness are inherent at wide angles for outdoor and
indoor lighting situations.
Now comes the perculiar "limitation" of M4/3 format,say from 20mm to short telephoto
that's portraiture territory and you want to have the nice blurry background popularly
termed as "bokeh" to isolate your subject be it a plate of food, lovely girlfriend/wife
or beloved child/pet the widest F3.5 may not render as nice an effect as full frame or APSC
sensors can for that professional look.This is where the wide aperture prime lens come to
the rescue at extra cost of course.Even then a little insider info will greatly extend
the effectiveness of your prime lens.That is the range of ISO and shutter speed available
on particular M4/3 models.The base ISo on M4/3 sensors is 200 ISO but with software it can
go down to 100 ISO. In so doing you will get to open at least 1 stop wider and in
conjuction with a top shutter speed of 8000th/sec in daylight scenes as inverse
relationship with ISO. So choose a camera that can go down to 100 ISo and have a
top speed of 8000th/sec.Most higher end models have it but check the specs.
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Another tip regarding bokeh and balancing flash with available/ambient light scenes is
maximum flash sync speed and most high end models go up to 1/250sec.This will be an
advantage when balancing ambient light with fill flash to light up shadow areas.If you
only have 1/160 or 1/180sec.you may not be able to do so resulting in subject not
sufficiently illuminated.Of course you can light entirely by flash but that will produce
hard light or shadows which don't look nice and the background can be in darkness.
Your shortlist example of olympus EM5 mk1, this comes with built in viewfinder.There are
the more compact equvialent EPL5 or EP series.Same sensor and processor chip but without
viewfinder.You can add viewfinder as extra to it's accessory port.The latest compact is
EPL7 and possibly EPL8 on the way.There's the Panasonic/Lumix line of cameras to choose
from too.GH (evf), GX ( no evf).The choices are plentiful.You may need to choose one
model or two behind current ones if new but if you are not aversed to buying used you can
have good deals and savings.A camera body and kit lens is possible.Just be patient and
look out for good deals.
As for me I got 2 M4/3 cameras used..EPL1 and Lumix G1 1st generation yes but they still
work and only 12Mp but it's good enough for me.I do have apsc Dslr and 8 vintage manual
lenses.1 autofocus for apsc and kit lens for M4/3.The lenses from flea market all have
fungus but I can clean them and live with them.They include 2 prime 50mm,various short zooms,
1 wide angle,1 macro and a 300mm prime but they all double in focal lenth when mated
with M4/3 with suitable adapters.Also have 3 vintage auto flashes and I check that their
voltage is 5 volts or less so that they don't kill the digital cameras..haha.
Can I make the pictures I want? You bet.It's a mindset thing know? The best thing is my
budget is less than yours.

Take care.