zac08
Senior Member
No. But the D40 can only autofocus with AF-S or HSM lenses. As such, most users won't want to bother to manually focus with the other lenses... (which still can be used)
Need advise for D40
- Thread starter guoliang
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No. But the D40 can only autofocus with AF-S or HSM lenses. As such, most users won't want to bother to manually focus with the other lenses... (which still can be used)
Wellz I already have the 70-300 and a 18-135.. it's the 2.8f that makes the 17-50 and the 17-55 nikon original more fun to use. The bokeh is to die for lor =P
Take already you will drool.. but too bad the 17-50 doesn't AF with D40... must buy the 17-55 for D40 users =)
cichlid
Senior Member
anybody out there using D40? i need help...
I like to use the M mode... cos can change more settings... but when ever i off my flash... set ISO to 800 so can allow more light in... and set my shutter to 200 (LOL)... but my result turn out to be DARK!!!!...
so how should I go about? at which ISO level should I adjust my shutter speed to?
I like to use the M mode... cos can change more settings... but when ever i off my flash... set ISO to 800 so can allow more light in... and set my shutter to 200 (LOL)... but my result turn out to be DARK!!!!...
so how should I go about? at which ISO level should I adjust my shutter speed to?
You need to learn about metering. ;p It's not just about choosing the shutter speed you like, the aperture you like and the ISO you like. They must match the lighting situation also.
psychobiologist
Senior Member
iso is not abt allowing more light in but just the sensitivity. depends on how dark, i dont like to raise the iso too high in lit places as there would be more noise..
the lower the ISO, you either have to have a longer exposure (i.e. slower shutter) or lower F-stop to let more light in.
let me give you two examples..
this picture was done at F10, 3 seconds, iso 400 (notice the street light at right corner)
for an equivalently bright picture...
this picture is done at F3.5, 1/3 seconds, iso 400 (notice the diff in the street light right corner)
so its how you toggle between the F-values and the shutterspeed..
a higher F-value i.e. above 10+, those streetlamps and other bright spots will be more radiant, rather than a big blotch of overexposure..
the only time i used iso 1600 or higher was for astrophotography.. when the place is like totally dark with minimal lighting, i.e. even the dark night sky was like daylight..
higher isos are used indoors, for portrait shots etc as well because must pictures of events and pictures, you cannot use too slow a shutter speed. so higher sensitivity, allow for you to use a higher shutter speed without the picture being underexposed. the same for F-stops.. those super low aperture lenses, i.e. F1.8, F1.4 allow more light in, and thus you can use a faster shutter as well, at times w/o increasing the iso too much..
the lower the ISO, you either have to have a longer exposure (i.e. slower shutter) or lower F-stop to let more light in.
let me give you two examples..
this picture was done at F10, 3 seconds, iso 400 (notice the street light at right corner)
for an equivalently bright picture...
this picture is done at F3.5, 1/3 seconds, iso 400 (notice the diff in the street light right corner)
so its how you toggle between the F-values and the shutterspeed..
a higher F-value i.e. above 10+, those streetlamps and other bright spots will be more radiant, rather than a big blotch of overexposure..
the only time i used iso 1600 or higher was for astrophotography.. when the place is like totally dark with minimal lighting, i.e. even the dark night sky was like daylight..
higher isos are used indoors, for portrait shots etc as well because must pictures of events and pictures, you cannot use too slow a shutter speed. so higher sensitivity, allow for you to use a higher shutter speed without the picture being underexposed. the same for F-stops.. those super low aperture lenses, i.e. F1.8, F1.4 allow more light in, and thus you can use a faster shutter as well, at times w/o increasing the iso too much..
another D40 user? lol... when i see the number of digits... i feel like fainting...
zac08
Senior Member
AF-S = Autofocus Silent Wave (more modern, uses a silent wave motor to autofocus the lens, very fast and quiet)
AF-D = Autofocus with distance (Slightly older version which uses the camera body's focusing motor to drive the autofocus screw on the lens and also reflects the distance of the subject from the camera's sensor. Slower and more noisy)
so which means... AF-D cannot be use on D40 right? then which tamron lens is suitable for D40?
if AF = suitable, cannot AF = not suitable, then none of the tamron are suitable :sticktong
?? i don't get you?
ok, in the first place AF-D lens CAN be used on D40... just no AF... and if no AF meant not suitable for D40, then all tamron ain't suitable.
I have already said, all the other lens can be used, but only MF on D40... if that is what you mean by not suitable, then you are making yourself stuck with the few HSM/SWM lenses. :thumbsup:
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