Morning with Joffyn

[ijnek]

focus at the eyes...cos the eyes is the window to the soul...hehhe

most of us would normally look at the face 1st and look at the eyes

 

[akszaksz]

Whats wrong with manual focus ?

i think he meant that the photographer accidentally triggerred Manual Focus mode without knowing it & thinks he's on Autofocus mode.

 

[kineticworks]

Whats wrong with manual focus ?

It will be OOF when you set to MF without using the focus ring. You may not have noticed it through the viewfinder at that moment. It happened to me once with a 70-200m lens.

 

[jonathann]

dude shoot at f16 with bounce flash next time. you should be able to yield 90% of in focus shot.

 

[beeth9]

The Sigma zoom has a AF/MF clutch that is quite tight but I may have accidentally triggered it unknowingly during zooming. Will take note next time. Here's a photo of Fion with centre focus point just below eye level.

#5
85mm f1.8 1/160. iso1000.
PS with clarity +10, vibrance +50 color temp +200

 

[tirimasu]

Waaa practise ur focusing first pal..

 

[jlpteltd]

Bro, Ur main problem is ur focusing... also maybe u can try adjusting more of ur cam's aperture... make ur aperture smaller so as to capture more sharper image. eg f4 to f8 or even smaller... play around... ur concept is there already... just the focusing only... hopes this can help abit...

 

[weegk]

and why set your ISO till 1000 ?

 

[beeth9]

I use Av with flash. iso set to auto. Would lower iso higher shutter give a better tonal range? Maybe I should just start with f4...

 

[jlpteltd]

Bro, try not to use iso auto... try at iso 400 and WB set to daylight once outdoors mode u can continue to use Av and set ur focus at center metering aperture adjust till u can get the best effect out from numerous shots.

 

[wootsk]

What happen could be a image degrade due to the filter infront. Try shooting without a UV filter mounted. If you look carefully, the eyebrow to nose section is the most focused part of the photo. While people in digital era get cheap UV filters to protect the lens as there isn't a need to filter UV light with digital sensor, poor quality filter can lead to more stop of light loss as well as poorer image quality.

 

[iRolly]

got nice model did not capture well.

photos are really soft and off focus. i think even a digital cam can easily shoot clearer photos than yrs

 

[MrLens]

It seems to be OOF. But no worries. It's a lesson learn and don't stop trying. Given enough effort, your photos will come good :thumbsup:

 

[jlpteltd]

Yup Just keep trying and trying... Dun Give up Bro!

 

[wootsk]

Those who think that the photo is OOF can try pointing out where the most focused area is in the photo before coming to this conclusion. The conclusion that I came up as filter degrade is because I have such experience with cheap protector which seems innocently clear but actually soften my image.
http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/...5-lens-filters-versus-flare-ghost-images.html

 

[wksoh]

You need SLT..... got face detect..

Sorry,..I'm just kiddin,......

 

[foofoo]

when shoot people.. u aim at the eyes

like to have some advise ; as follow:
if shooting a group of people; what aperture should i use? if 5 people(in a group) i aim at the center of the people? thanks in advance.

 

[NineEleven]

got nice model did not capture well.

photos are really soft and off focus. i think even a digital cam can easily shoot clearer photos than yrs

This is a very offensive post. :thumbsd:

An slr or dslr may yield poorer results if user does not know how to control the functions so it's practising & understanding. Nothing wrong with that, at least he's brave to post & ask for opinions to learn.

I use Av with flash. iso set to auto. Would lower iso higher shutter give a better tonal range? Maybe I should just start with f4...

I'll share with what I've learnt & may not be right, if you want quality pictures, never set the ISO to auto unless it's for quick travel snaps. Shoot more & understand your cam's capabilities & limits such as results from ISO100~1600 in the same situation then compare them on your screen. Higher ISOs usually degrade colors & of course grain unless it's for the purpose in BW. So, we usually try to shoot @ the lowest ISO possible but this will be limited by lighting condition which comes into the lens on hand if it's "fast" enough (wider apertures above 2.8)

I usually aim @ the nose bridge between the eyes then re-compose.

Flash light changes WB, colors, shadow etc. so leave that later. Try to shoot with ambient light first then learn the art of flash balance control.

Have the subjects to face the light so you'll have an easier time & remember, never under direct light or you'll get hot spots & hard shadows.

Worry about the poses later.

My Sigma 50mm has an annoying MF/AF switch that often causes accidental switch over. It's a design flaw but if you're careful, it should be fine. Not sure if it's the same prob on your model.

Anyway, shoot more & ask more.

 

[beeth9]

Yes, the 24-70mm as a clutch type MF/AF too. Will be extra careful next time. Thanks for the suggestions.

This is a very offensive post. :thumbsd:

An slr or dslr may yield poorer results if user does not know how to control the functions so it's practising & understanding. Nothing wrong with that, at least he's brave to post & ask for opinions to learn.



I'll share with what I've learnt & may not be right, if you want quality pictures, never set the ISO to auto unless it's for quick travel snaps. Shoot more & understand your cam's capabilities & limits such as results from ISO100~1600 in the same situation then compare them on your screen. Higher ISOs usually degrade colors & of course grain unless it's for the purpose in BW. So, we usually try to shoot @ the lowest ISO possible but this will be limited by lighting condition which comes into the lens on hand if it's "fast" enough (wider apertures above 2.8)

I usually aim @ the nose bridge between the eyes then re-compose.

Flash light changes WB, colors, shadow etc. so leave that later. Try to shoot with ambient light first then learn the art of flash balance control.

Have the subjects to face the light so you'll have an easier time & remember, never under direct light or you'll get hot spots & hard shadows.

Worry about the poses later.

My Sigma 50mm has an annoying MF/AF switch that often causes accidental switch over. It's a design flaw but if you're careful, it should be fine. Not sure if it's the same prob on your model.

Anyway, shoot more & ask more.

 

[beeth9]

Hmmm... you may be right. I recently started using a uv filter on my 85mm for the last 2 shoots. Before this, no comments about the softness thingy. As for the newly acquired Sigma lens, it had the filter on day one. Will vary the setup and compare.

Also before that, the shooting style on my 50d was set to Protrait and color space to Adobe, but was changed to Neutral and standard color space. With Neutral, do I need to adjust the clarity/sharpness upwards in PS?

Focus pt for picture #4 is just above her index finger. On the camera LCD, sharpness was acceptable (to me) but after PS and down-sizing it color/sharpness seemed to have deterioriated(?). Do you use auto adjust in PS?

Those who think that the photo is OOF can try pointing out where the most focused area is in the photo before coming to this conclusion. The conclusion that I came up as filter degrade is because I have such experience with cheap protector which seems innocently clear but actually soften my image.
http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/...5-lens-filters-versus-flare-ghost-images.html