MOON - How to TAKE ???
- Thread starter chiduc2004
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i'm in melbourne TRYING to watch the eclipse. the clouds have just covered the sky and moon. i even have a perfect view from my room window =(
Here's my very fast attempt at shooting the partial eclipse of the moon using a friends 90-300mm. I only had the chance to take one or two shots before it was covered in clouds again.
300mm, f/5.6, 3.2s, ISO400
300mm, f/5.6, 3.2s, ISO400
Good try 
At least you "got something", given the circumstances.
Been raining almost whole day here (in S'pore) plus with the thick cloud cover...
At least you "got something", given the circumstances.
Been raining almost whole day here (in S'pore) plus with the thick cloud cover...
Here's my very fast attempt at shooting the partial eclipse of the moon using a friends 90-300mm. I only had the chance to take one or two shots before it was covered in clouds again.
300mm, f/5.6, 3.2s, ISO400
shot from Wollongong, totally cloudless evening..
did not have a tripod to mount my camera on though, the following 2 shots are made using handholding + cropping.. (135mm @ 1.6x fov or 198mm @ 35mm fov) :sweat::sticktong
Eclipse in progress
Full Eclipse..
did not have a tripod to mount my camera on though, the following 2 shots are made using handholding + cropping.. (135mm @ 1.6x fov or 198mm @ 35mm fov) :sweat::sticktong
Eclipse in progress
Full Eclipse..
Something like this?
Shot taken recently. Uncropped.
300mm with 2 pieces of 2X TC, a nikon TC201 and Tokina RMC 2X, on a D200, mounted on tripod.
Shot taken recently. Uncropped.
300mm with 2 pieces of 2X TC, a nikon TC201 and Tokina RMC 2X, on a D200, mounted on tripod.
Something like this?
Shot taken recently. Uncropped.
300mm with 2 pieces of 2X TC, a nikon TC201 and Tokina RMC 2X, on a D200, mounted on tripod.
Wow... that is beautiful.... the 2 pieces of 2X TC reall helps in the increase of your 300mm.
Tonight's moon is bright and the night sky is pretty clear, anyone captured any shot?
I took some shots using only 200mm lens, still haven't got the guts to look at the photos in PC yet. Haha... Cause don't think it will turn out too well and likely need to crop to see a bigger moon. Haha... :bsmilie:
I took some shots using only 200mm lens, still haven't got the guts to look at the photos in PC yet. Haha... Cause don't think it will turn out too well and likely need to crop to see a bigger moon. Haha... :bsmilie:
Mine was a flop! :cry:I just done-ed. Same as last night's. Wish I have a 2x extender also
Even taken under ISO 100 or bulb mode, the moon still appeared to be all bright and white, no matter how I adjust through PS, still useless. Ya, wish I have the teleconverter also...
To get a proper exposure (being not blown out completely or too dark) of a clear full moon, the exposure is 1 stop +/- around
F/8
1/125-1/250
ISO 100.
That means that if you use F/5.6, then bracket around 1/250-1/500, ISO 100. If you use F/11, then bracket around 1/60-1/125, ISO 100.
Actually with the moon so far away, sufficient DOF isn't an issue. So just use the aperture which is the sharpness for your lens.
White balance can be tricky and so it's better to shoot in RAW for temperature adjustment later. Using Auto WB may give the moon colour not what you want.
(p.s. the exposure required varies slightly with the different phases of the moon. It's a little more exposure required when the moon is not full).
I've taken the moon quite a few times in the past and the most recent being last Sunday with my Fujifilm S6500fd. Of course, with the longest focal length at only 66.7mm and using a 2x digital zoom, not much details have been captured in this heavily cropped picture below. The craters on the moon surface are more apparent when it is not a full moon and so, if you want craters in your picture, then take when the moon is a not full.
F/5.6
1/160
ISO 100
The dynamic range of light between the clouds and a bright moon is too great to be captured in one exposure. So if you want both to be seen, you would need to capture them in a few different exposures in different frames and combine them in post-processing (such as HDR or different layers or simply cut and paste etc.)
F/8
1/125-1/250
ISO 100.
That means that if you use F/5.6, then bracket around 1/250-1/500, ISO 100. If you use F/11, then bracket around 1/60-1/125, ISO 100.
Actually with the moon so far away, sufficient DOF isn't an issue. So just use the aperture which is the sharpness for your lens.
White balance can be tricky and so it's better to shoot in RAW for temperature adjustment later. Using Auto WB may give the moon colour not what you want.
(p.s. the exposure required varies slightly with the different phases of the moon. It's a little more exposure required when the moon is not full).
I've taken the moon quite a few times in the past and the most recent being last Sunday with my Fujifilm S6500fd. Of course, with the longest focal length at only 66.7mm and using a 2x digital zoom, not much details have been captured in this heavily cropped picture below. The craters on the moon surface are more apparent when it is not a full moon and so, if you want craters in your picture, then take when the moon is a not full.
F/5.6
1/160
ISO 100
The dynamic range of light between the clouds and a bright moon is too great to be captured in one exposure. So if you want both to be seen, you would need to capture them in a few different exposures in different frames and combine them in post-processing (such as HDR or different layers or simply cut and paste etc.)
Here is an interesting moon picture taken by
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial]Noel Carboni[/FONT]
His website : http://ncarboni.home.att.net/Astrophotography.html
A medium resolution picture (there is a high resolution 15MB picture on his website link above) :
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial]Noel Carboni[/FONT]
His website : http://ncarboni.home.att.net/Astrophotography.html
A medium resolution picture (there is a high resolution 15MB picture on his website link above) :
Thanks for sharing on tips in taking the moon.To get a proper exposure (being not blown out completely or too dark) of a clear full moon, the exposure is 1 stop +/- around
F/8
1/125-1/250
ISO 100.
That means that if you use F/5.6, then bracket around 1/250-1/500, ISO 100. If you use F/11, then bracket around 1/60-1/125, ISO 100.
Actually with the moon so far away, sufficient DOF isn't an issue. So just use the aperture which is the sharpness for your lens.
White balance can be tricky and so it's better to shoot in RAW for temperature adjustment later. Using Auto WB may give the moon colour not what you want.
(p.s. the exposure required varies slightly with the different phases of the moon. It's a little more exposure required when the moon is not full).
I've taken the moon quite a few times in the past and the most recent being last Sunday with my Fujifilm S6500fd. Of course, with the longest focal length at only 66.7mm and using a 2x digital zoom, not much details have been captured in this heavily cropped picture below. The craters on the moon surface are more apparent when it is not a full moon and so, if you want craters in your picture, then take when the moon is a not full.
F/5.6
1/160
ISO 100
The dynamic range of light between the clouds and a bright moon is too great to be captured in one exposure. So if you want both to be seen, you would need to capture them in a few different exposures in different frames and combine them in post-processing (such as HDR or different layers or simply cut and paste etc.)
Will try again soon.
Wow! Very nice shot of the moon, it's so huge! :bigeyes:Here is an interesting moon picture taken by
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial]Noel Carboni[/FONT]
His website : http://ncarboni.home.att.net/Astrophotography.html
A medium resolution picture (there is a high resolution 15MB picture on his website link above) :
But then the colour looks a little unnatural leh, cause from the photo, it look like there are water or ocean in the moon. :think:
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