Minolta 80-200 f2.8 APO black version (Include DIY tips)


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hey, u mean u have both versions of the 80-200mm APO! wow! that's great man!
now, got to start hoping to strike toto ;p ;p
 

is that an older version of the 70-210?
 

in the end u still din say how much u selling...
 

Hi Agetan,

Was just curious... How did you set up the lightings for the lens pics? Not bad... was it studio lights?
 

Drudkh said:
is that an older version of the 70-210?

i think yes...its at F4 ...sharp lens....
:thumbsup:
 

ileaf said:
hey, u mean u have both versions of the 80-200mm APO! wow! that's great man!
now, got to start hoping to strike toto ;p ;p

hehe.. got the 70-210 f4, 80-200 f2.8 APO (black) and 80-200 f2.8 APO G HS (white version)

Sorry... forgot to mention... hehe... looking for $1250 - $1300... reasonable price?

Hart
 

grado said:
Hi Agetan,

Was just curious... How did you set up the lightings for the lens pics? Not bad... was it studio lights?

Just using a 5600HS flash mount of the camera actually... no studio lighting...

Hart
 

Agetan said:
Just using a 5600HS flash mount of the camera actually... no studio lighting...

Hart

I see... How come there's no harsh shadows or intense burnt out highlights?
 

grado said:
I see... How come there's no harsh shadows or intense burnt out highlights?

he is doing this... :gbounce::rbounce:
 

grado said:
I see... How come there's no harsh shadows or intense burnt out highlights?

Bounce flash lor... what else...

Hart
 

Did u use a bounce card? I see that there is fill-in flash...
 

Really just bounce flash only? Weird... I did try a shot with bounce card on the camera. I still got quite harsh shadows, not like yours...

This was a fun shot on film using a 90mm macro lens...

http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=2210363&size=lg

Could it be you used a very big bounce card, or the white back drop bounced back light onto the shadows? For my shot, the white back drop was only at the horizontal level, maybe perhaps thats why it has nothing to bounce against, resulting in harsh shadows?

Oh... Maybe you bounce against the top ceiling? Haha! I forgot about that possibility too... Didnt read properly, maybe bouce against the wall/ceiling, not against the bounce card, haha...
 

grado, I believed he bounced the main light off the ceiling and caught some of the fill light using a card... that softens the shadows immensely as I have experienced myself... actually using a larger completely opaque bounce card causes stronger hotspots while using a more translucent bounce card results in softer shadows... reason is that not all the fill light is caught and directed towards the shadows... for that reason I prefer to use the white corrugated cardboard because it does not reflect all the light from the flash...
 

I think he bounced it off the ceiling... The ceiling becomes a huge "bounce card" and hence the shadow is softer. I don't think he used any bounce card on flash for fill, as the lens look a little dark from the front, and it will create harsh shadows, unless I am wrong... Never tried ceiling bounce before for small items as I thought the distance might be too big from the table top to the ceiling to bounce flash, but I think I will try next time.
 

grado said:
I think he bounced it off the ceiling... The ceiling becomes a huge "bounce card" and hence the shadow is softer. I don't think he used any bounce card on flash for fill, as the lens look a little dark from the front, and it will create harsh shadows, unless I am wrong... Never tried ceiling bounce before for small items as I thought the distance might be too big from the table top to the ceiling to bounce flash, but I think I will try next time.

Well done... yes, it is bounce off ceiling... and yes, I use a very small white card and hold it so it only show a little bit, that way only small amount of fill will shows on the object and won't result in any harsh lighting.

I have white ceiling and white wall and white background. If I show you my work area, you will laugh at me... so primitive.. but works fine...

Hart
 

grado said:
I think he bounced it off the ceiling... The ceiling becomes a huge "bounce card" and hence the shadow is softer. I don't think he used any bounce card on flash for fill, as the lens look a little dark from the front, and it will create harsh shadows, unless I am wrong... Never tried ceiling bounce before for small items as I thought the distance might be too big from the table top to the ceiling to bounce flash, but I think I will try next time.


I saw your shot of the Bulova shot and there were very harsh shadows beneath the watch (if that is the shot u were referring to). Reason is the light is coming from the top and shadows will be cast beneath it. The bounce card will catch some of the light and eliminate the shadow areas... u will then get very balanced lighting with little shadow... but this means the shot also looks very flat cos there is little or no depth, so little spatial information is present... it might be better to do it like what Agetan does to reduce the amount of light caught to soften the shadow and not eliminate it completely...
 

TME said:
I saw your shot of the Bulova shot and there were very harsh shadows beneath the watch (if that is the shot u were referring to). Reason is the light is coming from the top and shadows will be cast beneath it. The bounce card will catch some of the light and eliminate the shadow areas... u will then get very balanced lighting with little shadow... but this means the shot also looks very flat cos there is little or no depth, so little spatial information is present... it might be better to do it like what Agetan does to reduce the amount of light caught to soften the shadow and not eliminate it completely...

Yups, that was my first macro shot with flash, which I used with an external flash mounted on the camera with bounce card. At that time I didnt have a digital camera so didnt know much about small product shoots. I know not so long ago only that one way to get softer shadows is to have a bigger light source, perhaps bigger than the subject itself. For agetan's case, the ceiling used is bigger than the subjects he was using. Anyway I did try another setup since I got a DSLR, and here is one with flash bounced off a cheap white umbrella, haha!

7565airplant3.jpg
 

Aha, 70-210/4, fantastic lens, way better than what it costs. My favorite (focal length wise, I prefer this better than 80-200/2.8G white).
 

Agetan said:
There is only one version of black Minolta 80-200 f2.8 APO. Even with white one, it doesn't have "G" word on it... the only way to tell it is a "G" is the gold ring.

Main different is the speed and the focus hold button.

I will post the pictures of both lens together to compare it.

Hart
Hi Hart,

Your version of the 80-200 seems a little different with the copy I'm using now. The "AF" characters are in red in your 80-200 APO black. The copy i have has white "AF" characters. It could be a prior transition to the white version.

I guess your copy had the gold ring stripped off already right? The little groove right above the focus ring is where the gold ring is located.

BTW, i got this lens not in its "what i would like it to be" condition. So i put it through a round of "overhaul". Now the focusiing ring is damped and less lower level of "knocking" sound when it reaches its focus stops at the minimum focus and infinity.

Great glass......very low dispersion......and the metal hood "rings"

I like it..

rgds,
sulhan
 

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