Macro shooting with Panasonic GF2


I also physically move myself and the camera to adjust the focussing. Take a scenario, outside, a caterpillar on a leaf, I will use a monopod, maxed to 200mm (f5.6 -.-") to get closest texture of the caterpillar. I have a few difficulties:

1) The wind moves
2) The leaf moves
3) The insect moves
4) Maxed 200mm lens, stability in it's worst
5) f5.6, not the best aperture

All these factors already make it difficult to get the right picture, focussing should be the least worried if I have an option of an AF lens.
Of cox if it's in a studio, it is a lot easier

Are my methods correct when shooting my scenario? Got any other better ways?

You want such shallow DOF ah? I shoot macro I shoot f11 f16 lei hahahah, use flash lor, proper illumination hahaha
 

I also physically move myself and the camera to adjust the focussing. Take a scenario, outside, a caterpillar on a leaf, I will use a monopod, maxed to 200mm (f5.6 -.-") to get closest texture of the caterpillar. I have a few difficulties:

1) The wind moves
2) The leaf moves
3) The insect moves
4) Maxed 200mm lens, stability in it's worst
5) f5.6, not the best aperture

All these factors already make it difficult to get the right picture, focussing should be the least worried if I have an option of an AF lens.
Of cox if it's in a studio, it is a lot easier

Are my methods correct when shooting my scenario? Got any other better ways?

Yo bro, didn't know you are also into insects.
To answer your questions with my still raw experience, I will state what I will do with each situation.

1) Pump ISO and / or increase shutter speed.
2) If above fails, throw a diffused flash (Daiso cutting board)
3) Prefocus or have a really fast AF (still possible even with a JS)
4) Can't help you much since I'm using just the 45mm handheld without OIS (LCD suck to much battery, got to cut corner somewhere)
5) F8 - 11 (Anything higher and the m43 limitation starts to show)

Of course it doesn't mean my method is correct but it's how I normally shoot with.
 

lonewolf and spidey, i dun get the idea of using smaller Fs, will be sharper i agree, but shutter speed slower right?

I dun have flash leh, maybe should get this, LOL
New-image-of-Olympus-E-PL2-macro-spotlight.jpg



These are the samples my cousin shot with my Raynox 250.
vyt5p4.jpg


34slb1w.jpg
 

lonewolf and spidey, i dun get the idea of using smaller Fs, will be sharper i agree, but shutter speed slower right?

Shutter speed slower, but depends on ISO and the amount of light when shooting, if freaking sunny like now, ISO 100 still can give you a good enough speed, most of the macro photos I see use flash or some other form of light,shoot manual mode, smaller f stops not really say sharper only la, but also increased DOF, imagine you shoot f2.8 on something like D3, already thin enough, you go macro, shoot at f2.8,the DOF become even thinner, unless you just want to focus on example, the snail's eyes, then by all means shoot f2.8, but if you want at least until the "face" is in focus, have to stop down lor,some stack DOF images a bit like how HDR images are done (not exactly the same, but basically same as in all requires multiple images to stack, HDR multiple exposures, increased DOF requires diff focus "layers)
 

so i guess there is nothing much i can do to convert my kit lens to shoot macro with my GF2 right?
 

so i guess there is nothing much i can do to convert my kit lens to shoot macro with my GF2 right?

Put a Raynox 205 or if you feel challenged to tryout the 202.
Your 14-42mm might get something close to this bah...

I shot this JS handheld, ISO 100, 1/30, F11, no flash because its 10.35am (no raynox yet)
I think it was with OIS off but nothing to prove me right so you would just have to take my word for it.

208051_203086043047104_100000371282574_632835_6651757_n.jpg
 

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Looks a little under on my screen, but at least no blown highlights
 

spidey89 said:
Looks a little under on my screen, but at least no blown highlights

You are right, just that when I pull up the exposure the leaf will have highlights blinking everywhere. :)
 

I also physically move myself and the camera to adjust the focussing. Take a scenario, outside, a caterpillar on a leaf, I will use a monopod, maxed to 200mm (f5.6 -.-") to get closest texture of the caterpillar. I have a few difficulties:

1) The wind moves
2) The leaf moves
3) The insect moves
4) Maxed 200mm lens, stability in it's worst
5) f5.6, not the best aperture

All these factors already make it difficult to get the right picture, focussing should be the least worried if I have an option of an AF lens.
Of cox if it's in a studio, it is a lot easier

Are my methods correct when shooting my scenario? Got any other better ways?

Monopod can't do much on macro shooting. Shooting a caterpillar using f5.6 will get shallow DOF, parallel shots normally use from f11 onward. For headshot start somewhere f8, if you want to cover the whole cat then use the smallest f & that going be slow... Answer some question of yours.. don't shoot when wind blow, leaf moves use your other hand to hold it, cat moves...just give it a blow with your mouth & it will stop, 200mm with 250 is too close to the insects. Best working distance get a Raynox 150 match well with 45-200mm, pump up iso to max 400. AF is ok to lock subject 1st then MF to fine tune it. Hope this help, happy shooting.
 

just give it a blow with your mouth & it will stop

Really? Not being sarcastic or offensive, but really curious, cause usually when I blow, its either they fly away,fall off or run the other direction hahaha
 

Really? Not being sarcastic or offensive, but really curious, cause usually when I blow, its either they fly away,fall off or run the other direction hahaha
Just give a gentle blow & it will stop there. Cat fly away?? fall off when you blow too hard, run other direction... maybe you just finish smoking:bsmilie:
 

Just give a gentle blow & it will stop there. Cat fly away?? fall off when you blow too hard, run other direction... maybe you just finish smoking:bsmilie:

I see, shall try it next time hahaha, I don't smoke lei hahahah
 

I see, shall try it next time hahaha, I don't smoke lei hahahah
It works on cat & JS, beware when use this on JS.. not too close & don't open mouth wide...it might jump into it:)
 

It works on cat & JS, beware when use this on JS.. not too close & don't open mouth wide...it might jump into it:)

JS I usually chase them away ahahhaha
 

Are you 2 gays? stop blowing each other please!!!!, thank JS for the tips, i will try next time, thanks
 

Are you 2 gays? stop blowing each other please!!!!, thank JS for the tips, i will try next time, thanks

hahahah! Dang those icons,they ain't working -_-"
 

Spidey, when Ubi trip har? talked since last November leh.....
 

rwhite, didn't know you are interested in a ubin trip...
that picture was shot in Ubin, someone blow the JS a bit too hard and the leave went flying, last known location of the JS is it is sailing down some stream.

jameskkmok, i have seen my friend shoot macro with a monopod and the pictures turn out sharp.
Of course he has abs of strength while mine are toufu standard... not gay yet hoh.
 

rwhite, didn't know you are interested in a ubin trip...
that picture was shot in Ubin, someone blow the JS a bit too hard and the leave went flying, last known location of the JS is it is sailing down some stream.

jameskkmok, i have seen my friend shoot macro with a monopod and the pictures turn out sharp.
Of course he has abs of strength while mine are toufu standard... not gay yet hoh.
Need not to have abs to shoot macro, what need is more practice....monopod,tripod or handheld.
 

Someone jealous about the blowing? :bsmilie:

Joking hor!! ;p

Thanks for the blowing tip though.

I'm very new to macro and if the insect or leaves move, that really is a problem. But I don't see how AF going to help with the thin DOF, slow AF and shutter lag in m4/3.
 

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