Lenses for the D100
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Hmmm.... i understand that long zooms will not be as sharp n fast compared to shorter ones, more so if they are 3rd party ones. But is it so noticeable that with just one look at the screen or print, you can tell the difference? I wish I could, but I definitely can't afford 2.8 stuff, unless I win the TOTO today...
Perhaps the AF Zoom-Nikkor 28-200mm f/3.5-5.6D IF, would be an acceptable compromise? It's Nikon... and 200mm(300mm after 1.5X) is good enough. Costs around $750...
(Java_Guru) About the Tamron 28-300mm XR, I tot it's a new lens? There's another 28-300mm, but no XR. Check out Tamron's website.
One thing that got me thinking. Does the 'unsharpness' of long zooms only show up at the farthest zoom setting, or does it apply to the whole focal length, be it at wide angle or in the middle zone?
Thanks for the offer to try out the lenses on your cams. Perhaps at the next SEED... . Oh yeah, I'm still new to the board, but I did read up on what goes on during the SEED. Two questions though. What on earth does SEED stand for? Another thing is, is CP the only place you guys have the SEED at? How come? Loyalty to the shop or got previous arrangement with them to let you fellas try their stuff out?
Perhaps the AF Zoom-Nikkor 28-200mm f/3.5-5.6D IF, would be an acceptable compromise? It's Nikon... and 200mm(300mm after 1.5X) is good enough. Costs around $750...
(Java_Guru) About the Tamron 28-300mm XR, I tot it's a new lens? There's another 28-300mm, but no XR. Check out Tamron's website.
One thing that got me thinking. Does the 'unsharpness' of long zooms only show up at the farthest zoom setting, or does it apply to the whole focal length, be it at wide angle or in the middle zone?
Thanks for the offer to try out the lenses on your cams. Perhaps at the next SEED... . Oh yeah, I'm still new to the board, but I did read up on what goes on during the SEED. Two questions though. What on earth does SEED stand for? Another thing is, is CP the only place you guys have the SEED at? How come? Loyalty to the shop or got previous arrangement with them to let you fellas try their stuff out?
Hi finkster,
Perhaps we approach the equipment question from another angle:
1. What do you absolutely must shoot?
2. What do you like to shoot?
3. What would you eventually like to shoot?
In any case, a 28-200 lens does sort of cover the range, but not the wide end, as reiterated by the previous posts.
Since you are not making an immediate purchase, you would have the benefit of having time to save and think through before spending, and to test out the combos yourself.
Perhaps we approach the equipment question from another angle:
1. What do you absolutely must shoot?
2. What do you like to shoot?
3. What would you eventually like to shoot?
In any case, a 28-200 lens does sort of cover the range, but not the wide end, as reiterated by the previous posts.
Since you are not making an immediate purchase, you would have the benefit of having time to save and think through before spending, and to test out the combos yourself.
I am not a pro, but love photography. I travel alot to meet my client often. I always bring along my Nikon 80-200mm. The down side for this lens is heavy but sharp. My recommend combo for you to get 24-85mm and 80-200mm. Lkie Darren was saying it will cost you lot.
Nikon 24-85mm - S$550.00
Nikon 80-200 - S$1850.00
or may be to wait for 70-200mm VR lighter but more expensive.
Nikon 24-85mm - S$550.00
Nikon 80-200 - S$1850.00
or may be to wait for 70-200mm VR lighter but more expensive.
Hi igpenguin,
Well... I guess I'm still considered a 'multi-purpose' photog. Landscape, buildings, objects, people, action shots... I like to dabble in all of them. Did a little wedding photography before, but not as the official photog, since my primary job that time was as a videographer.
Fashion shoots, studio, modelling shots is something I'm interested to try, but got zero experience. Need to look for opportunities to learn the ropes slowly and without pressure first...
The occasional car show(Sg motorshow), event shoot(Chingay), stuff like that, is where I normally practice my shooting. Not much time to do much so far due to lack of proper equipment and lack of kaki. I felt if I wanted to progress to DSLR's, I had better learn how to handle my current P&S digicam before jumping into the serious stuff. That's Y I've been shooting manual on it for a few months already.
The main reason with my choice of a 28-200mm(approximately around there), would be because of it's versatility. I want to be able to just have one lens, with the ability to zoom far to capture a distant shot if the need arises. I don't think I have the time to change lenses each time something happens far away. Not that I want to shoot all the time with just one lens, but for now, it's due to budget constraints.
Hopefully, I can join you fellas for the next SEED so I can evaluate the pics and compare. I'll bring my laptop down so we can view it immediately.
Well... I guess I'm still considered a 'multi-purpose' photog. Landscape, buildings, objects, people, action shots... I like to dabble in all of them. Did a little wedding photography before, but not as the official photog, since my primary job that time was as a videographer.
Fashion shoots, studio, modelling shots is something I'm interested to try, but got zero experience. Need to look for opportunities to learn the ropes slowly and without pressure first...
The occasional car show(Sg motorshow), event shoot(Chingay), stuff like that, is where I normally practice my shooting. Not much time to do much so far due to lack of proper equipment and lack of kaki. I felt if I wanted to progress to DSLR's, I had better learn how to handle my current P&S digicam before jumping into the serious stuff. That's Y I've been shooting manual on it for a few months already.
The main reason with my choice of a 28-200mm(approximately around there), would be because of it's versatility. I want to be able to just have one lens, with the ability to zoom far to capture a distant shot if the need arises. I don't think I have the time to change lenses each time something happens far away. Not that I want to shoot all the time with just one lens, but for now, it's due to budget constraints.
Hopefully, I can join you fellas for the next SEED so I can evaluate the pics and compare. I'll bring my laptop down so we can view it immediately.
The XR lens is 2-3 years old. I believe the newest version that is <1 yr old that is 62 mm filter size. This is mine.
The 28-300 has also a new version but it isn't an award winner. The distortion and lack of sharpness is significantly more I read.
The 28-200 is sufficiently sharp for general purpose outdoorshoots of GF, family, outings etc when printing is limited to 4R (I haven't tried 8R on it yet).
PS : Havent any of u got complaints of lenses/DSLR being too sharp that it reveals all the wrinkles/pimples compared to to usu P&S shots? I have quite a few
The 28-300 has also a new version but it isn't an award winner. The distortion and lack of sharpness is significantly more I read.
The 28-200 is sufficiently sharp for general purpose outdoorshoots of GF, family, outings etc when printing is limited to 4R (I haven't tried 8R on it yet).
PS : Havent any of u got complaints of lenses/DSLR being too sharp that it reveals all the wrinkles/pimples compared to to usu P&S shots? I have quite a few
Yeah, I agree with everyone actually. What I mean is due to budget constraints for now, I have to survive on one good lens for about a year before I can spend on a better one. Definitely on my list are a 50mm F1.4 and a wide-angle one, probably somewhere around the 14,16,18mm range.
I go for bicycle touring too, so I dun think lugging a pack full of lenses is a good idea. Gotta travel light too. I also want to be able to just chuck the camera case in my backpack, with lens attached and go. Portability is a factor.
Java_Guru, what u said about the convenience is absolutely how I feel. About the Tamron lens again, I believe it is the 28-300mm F3.5-6.3 XR, the new one, that is the EISA award winner. Their website says so pretty clearly leh...
I go for bicycle touring too, so I dun think lugging a pack full of lenses is a good idea. Gotta travel light too. I also want to be able to just chuck the camera case in my backpack, with lens attached and go. Portability is a factor.
Java_Guru, what u said about the convenience is absolutely how I feel. About the Tamron lens again, I believe it is the 28-300mm F3.5-6.3 XR, the new one, that is the EISA award winner. Their website says so pretty clearly leh...
Hi SzennyBoy,
slightly OT but still camera related... i would like to attach panniers to my bike to carry some equipment. What would you recommend... side panniers over say front/rear panniers and what types? Also, any tips about cycling with panniers/keeping them secure would be appreciated.
I have an old Cannondale F900 (circa 1998 i guess)
I know u didn't ask me erwinx, but if u dun mind, maybe i could say my 2cents worth.
I've done bike touring in Perth, with a P&S cam along. If I had an SLR, I would rather put it on my body than on the bike, for a few reasons.
One is, road vibration n shock will be transmitted to the camera if it's carried in the panniers. U will need padding to adequately cushion it.
Two, if it is in your panniers, digging it out to take a photo along the way will be troublesome. U might be reluctant to take it out.
Three, by leaving your cam in bags on your bike, the risk of theft & losing everything is higher.
Four, crashing might cause greater damage to your cam than if it were carried on your body, although it can swing both ways.
Options to consider:
1. Small backpack. light n portable, goes with u everywhere u go.
2. Handlebar bag. easier access, but still on bike. can get quick attach/disconnect types to facilitate off-bike carrying. might affect steering too much though.
3. Rack trunk. similar to handlebar bag features.
U could try carrying the cam on your body in a backpack, with lenses n accessories in a rack trunk. That's my choice.
Another thing to note. Never rely on the built-in system that holds your panniers to the rack. Use rope/long toe straps to provide extra security in case u hit major bumps. My panniers almost flew off twice, luckily, it was held on by my nylon straps. BTW, does your cannondale have rack eyelets on the dropouts?
I've done bike touring in Perth, with a P&S cam along. If I had an SLR, I would rather put it on my body than on the bike, for a few reasons.
One is, road vibration n shock will be transmitted to the camera if it's carried in the panniers. U will need padding to adequately cushion it.
Two, if it is in your panniers, digging it out to take a photo along the way will be troublesome. U might be reluctant to take it out.
Three, by leaving your cam in bags on your bike, the risk of theft & losing everything is higher.
Four, crashing might cause greater damage to your cam than if it were carried on your body, although it can swing both ways.
Options to consider:
1. Small backpack. light n portable, goes with u everywhere u go.
2. Handlebar bag. easier access, but still on bike. can get quick attach/disconnect types to facilitate off-bike carrying. might affect steering too much though.
3. Rack trunk. similar to handlebar bag features.
U could try carrying the cam on your body in a backpack, with lenses n accessories in a rack trunk. That's my choice.
Another thing to note. Never rely on the built-in system that holds your panniers to the rack. Use rope/long toe straps to provide extra security in case u hit major bumps. My panniers almost flew off twice, luckily, it was held on by my nylon straps. BTW, does your cannondale have rack eyelets on the dropouts?
circa 1998... your frame, if bought in S'pore, would have come from us (one of our family business at that period was bicycle importing and we were the sole wholesale distributors for Cannondale in S'pore before they decided to come on their own)!!!
Anyhow, I digress...
Panniers on racks definitely use the rear ones. More balance during up-hill climbs and also down-hill coasting!!! I never liked the front racks because of the balance issue. Can easily get your fork off-balance when you least expect it! The rear panniers I use (old Cannondale ones) have locking mechanisms but allow easly release when I get off the bike. Some of my friends use additional elastic cords with hooks for extra fastening (The type you use in SAF to secure vehicle camo-nets). I/We ALWAYS remove the panniers from the bike(s) when I/we have to leave the bike(s)... after locking them up of course. The only front load I have is a handlebar bag which I keep fairly light stuff in... again for balance issues. It is also very useful on rides because of the clear map pouch on the top for navigation purposes.
SEED is an acronym for Shopping for Equipment and Expendables Day. It was coined by Adam Goi.
SEED has normally been held at Peninsula Plaza where the majority of camera retailers (Cathay, Ruby, John3:16, Fotoguide, Anthony's Collection) and 2nd hand retailers (TCW, Prime, Alex and some in Adelphi) are all within a stone's throw from each other. We don't have particular allegiance, but most often, Cathay comes up as they are the biggest and normally have the most equipment for members to test out (and ultimately buy, we hope). Plus their salespeople are very friendly and knowledgeable. Win-Win situation for everyone.
Thanks SzennyBoy and Finkster for the information. I think i'll carry my camera in my backpack. But one thing I want to do is to have a top loading easy to access pannier mainly to put my 550EX+flash extender attached. I want to cut down setup time of my camera equipment....
Plus maybe water bottle, small supplies. Am planning to cycle on relatively good ground - unpaved roads.
Also, I don't have a rear rack yet. Any tips on buying both a rack and a topload pannier in Singapore? (how to tell quality of the rack? weight?)
Plus maybe water bottle, small supplies. Am planning to cycle on relatively good ground - unpaved roads.
Also, I don't have a rear rack yet. Any tips on buying both a rack and a topload pannier in Singapore? (how to tell quality of the rack? weight?)
Why sacrifice image quality? Isn't image quality what you want in the first place when you bought a DSLR? So why waste the DSLR on a relatively mediocre lens like any superzoom? If a superzoom is all you want, and covers your needs, then why not save the money and buy something like a Minolta DiMAGE 7HI or similar with 8-10X zoom? :devil:
And like I said, if all you want is 4R, and the lens sharpness at 4R is good enough for you, why buy a DSLR in the first place? And in any case, the cost of any DSLR + a 28-200 can buy you a much better film camera + much better lens as well. In fact, you can get either something like a Nikon F80 + AF-S 28-70/2.8, or the Canon equivalents for example. And that will beat the DSLR in terms of image quality, as you have a "not-as-good" lens on the DSLR. Too many people fall into the trap of buying "all in one" lenses. Convenient yes, but that's about all.
Lenses winning awards is no indication that it is good. In fact, I'd rather think the other way. The lens is not good enough by itself that it requires awards to make people buy them. Ever seen Canon or Nikon promoting their AF-S ED and L lenses as having won any award? No right? A good analogy is handphone accessories. Do you realize the supposedly original ones has the big words "ORIGINAL" where the real mcCoy either doesn't, or has it in smaller print? :bsmilie: :bsmilie: :bsmilie:
Regards
CK
Agreed! Instead, start with a general purpose lens like a AF-S 24-85mm f3.5-4.5G IF-ED to get yourself familiarize with the camera, tune up your skill, develop your photo "muscles" and let you learn and setup your workflow. Then look into buying the more "interesting" lens, either a telephoto or the other way, a wide angle/fisheye.
This is the advantage of a SLR: you can change the lens to focus (pardon the pun) on your specialize needs. If all you need is to take the usual photos like group shots with friends and family or portaits, then get the much cheaper consumer DC; some have great zoom features, can do most (if not all )of the things you want with a camera and still be much cheaper.
To rebute the points in this healthy disccusion.
(1) Having a super zoom doens't preclude u from owning and using an L lense or similar lens. Use the appropriate lense for the appropriate occassion and requirements. See my single dimension view point commment on lenses. Ability to grow in photo skills is also important and an SLR gives u that.
(2) It is cheaper to buy a super zoom at 400+ THAN a proconsumer DC. The only problem is the DLSR is a little heavier, however the longer range is great.
THese are my opinions so don't flame me.
(1) Having a super zoom doens't preclude u from owning and using an L lense or similar lens. Use the appropriate lense for the appropriate occassion and requirements. See my single dimension view point commment on lenses. Ability to grow in photo skills is also important and an SLR gives u that.
(2) It is cheaper to buy a super zoom at 400+ THAN a proconsumer DC. The only problem is the DLSR is a little heavier, however the longer range is great.
THese are my opinions so don't flame me.
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