Lens Talks


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erizai

Senior Member
Hi there,

Having notice the lens with attributes like f3.5-5.6, or f4-XX and etc...

The price could be so much different if f2.8 and smaller...

Anyone can enlighten me on this?:dunno:
 

coz smaller f number need larger lens elements and they cost more. If you are talking about fixed aperture lens like the 70-200/2.8, they can maintain that aperture throughout the range instead of going from f3.5 to f5.6 as you zoom out.
 

But the price different can be 4 to 5 times that the normal lens!

But anyway thanks for answering...:sweatsm:
 

harder to make mah
and also usually the constant f-stop F2.8 is professional grade lens
 

act its coz at 2.8, the relative size of the aperture is alot larger than say at 3.5 or above.... thus it lets in more light, and allows u to use the lens at a higher shutter speed (but wider aperture) in dim light conditions....

that's y 2.8 lenses (especially the constant ones) are in such high demand...esp for telezooms... with a longer focal lenght..if u stick by the 1/focal lenght rule for shutter speed, a wider aperture will help u achieve the faster shutter speed....

cheers...
 

Witness said:
the 1/focal lenght rule for shutter speed, a wider aperture will help u achieve the faster shutter speed....

cheers...
For the 1/focal lenght rule for shutter speed of telezooms, do we need to take the FOV multiplier into consideration? For example on a 1.6X FOV camera, will we need to set the shutter speed to 1/320 sec. or the usual 1/200 sec. when we are shooting using a 200 mm lens? :confused:

Thanks.
 

Canew said:
For the 1/focal lenght rule for shutter speed of telezooms, do we need to take the FOV multiplier into consideration? For example on a 1.6X FOV camera, will we need to set the shutter speed to 1/320 sec. or the usual 1/200 sec. when we are shooting using a 200 mm lens? :confused:

Thanks.

that rule is just a rough guide

use whatever shutter speed u can manage
 

erizai said:
But the price different can be 4 to 5 times that the normal lens!

But anyway thanks for answering...:sweatsm:

at the telephoto end of that lens a f2.8 aperture instead of a f5.6 implies 2 f stops which translates into 4 times the amount of light ~ 4 times the cost ;)
 

user111 said:
that rule is just a rough guide

use whatever shutter speed u can manage
Thanks, user111.
 

Witness said:
act its coz at 2.8, the relative size of the aperture is alot larger than say at 3.5 or above.... thus it lets in more light, and allows u to use the lens at a higher shutter speed (but wider aperture) in dim light conditions....

that's y 2.8 lenses (especially the constant ones) are in such high demand...esp for telezooms... with a longer focal lenght..if u stick by the 1/focal lenght rule for shutter speed, a wider aperture will help u achieve the faster shutter speed....

cheers...

Add on to this, for a bigger aperture (smaller F stop). The lens can focus faster. Because lens are focus wide open and stop down during shutter release.
 

Canew said:
For the 1/focal lenght rule for shutter speed of telezooms, do we need to take the FOV multiplier into consideration? For example on a 1.6X FOV camera, will we need to set the shutter speed to 1/320 sec. or the usual 1/200 sec. when we are shooting using a 200 mm lens? :confused:

Thanks.

honestly this is debatable.... but if we take the censor size as a guide to the "real focal length" then i guess yes.... but i erhm dun follow this rule and still get great results hahaha

cheers..
 

Canew said:
For the 1/focal lenght rule for shutter speed of telezooms, do we need to take the FOV multiplier into consideration? For example on a 1.6X FOV camera, will we need to set the shutter speed to 1/320 sec. or the usual 1/200 sec. when we are shooting using a 200 mm lens? :confused:

Thanks.
I think no need to take 1.6X multiplier into account. Just shoot at 1/200 sec will do...cos you're still shooting at 200mm...

It's just that the sensor is smaller, cropping the image to a smaller field of view.
 

tincup said:
I think no need to take 1.6X multiplier into account. Just shoot at 1/200 sec will do...cos you're still shooting at 200mm...

It's just that the sensor is smaller, cropping the image to a smaller field of view.
as the image is cropped, so is the blur due to camera shake. steady hands with tripod and/or VR/IS/OS will give blur-free images most of the time. with my 70-200vr@200mm, i can handhold @1/20sec. of course VR/IS/OS lenses are considerably more expensive
 

Thanks everyone, for all the comments.
 

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