Shadowleong
New Member
The neg looks alright. But i dunno whats that funny band at the side. The picture looks like its disintergrated.
Larger Format Photography
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wootsk
Deregistered
Much better than mine. Did reversal on Maco 820IR, the photo turned out good till my finger accidentally swipe across. Guess I will have to mix some hardener stop bath as the film could be designed for developing with modern fixer where there are hardener already.
wootsk
Deregistered
Did the B&W long ago with no issue. Guess it is due to me being too noob.
I did some adjustment for developing with Shanghai 100 (I compiled a lot of own data on it) and adjusted the first developer timing for Maco 820IR. The end result came out very good if not for the emulsion too soft and wet and my finger went accidentally across it. (I already keep bleach timing and temperature short already) Guess me still too newbie.
My conclusion is:
Illford FP4+ and HP5 (Petty good emulsion which doesn't soften much even against strong bleach and not very high staining)
Shanghai 100 (Soft and chance of small emulsion wash off. Works with a revised bleach timing and low temperature, emulsion still stays)
Neopan series (Slightly soft and emulsion stays with normal bleach, but need careful handling. Else will need Shanghai 100 revised bleach timing)
Maco 820IR (Even with Shanghai 100 revised bleach timing and low temperature, emulsion still too soft. Require ultra careful handling or Alum hardener stop bath)
That's light leak.. usually happens when you develop it at the lab. They need to extract the first part of the 120 film to feed into the machine..
Nikkornos
Senior Member
Is that your roll film back? Chances is there is light leak. Possibly cracked, or something loosen. Check.
If there is light leak, the best film on earth will become Lomo aka Holga. Sorry my previous note refers to light leak.
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Shadowleong
New Member
I think its the lab fault cause its the first image and it only appeared on one frame.
Film used is Kodak pro 160. Very disappointing results maybe my exposure off too much.
Maybe gonna just stick with B&W. Just finished my 4x5 shanghai 100.
No LF for me for awhile i guess. gonna try some 120 B&W since i can develop myself but then again i still need a scanner.
Maybe buy myself a canonscan 9000f for Christmas haha
Film used is Kodak pro 160. Very disappointing results maybe my exposure off too much.
Maybe gonna just stick with B&W. Just finished my 4x5 shanghai 100.
No LF for me for awhile i guess. gonna try some 120 B&W since i can develop myself but then again i still need a scanner.
Maybe buy myself a canonscan 9000f for Christmas haha
wootsk
Deregistered
Everything can wait till you have a full complete set where everything is reliable and you do not need to go through guessing game. I am thinking that a good Loupe is still missing and maybe there are others before a scanner comes. If you just count back the amount of film wasted or spoiled due to guessing game.
BTW, I tested shanghai 100 @ city hall and there is no issue of the film with any color or light. The issue is due to unable to meter pin point of the area and apply a accurate zone system. (There are quite a big gap between the building light and the building that will affect judgement a lot if you meter in a dark surrounding) Also, the reciprocity failure of long exposure in shanghai 100 plays a big part.
losheng
New Member
Hey, guys! and so the loot has arrived!
I'll email you guys the final amount, and please go ahead and arrange a time with me to pick up your order!
Hey, guys! and so the loot has arrived!
I'll email you guys the final amount, and please go ahead and arrange a time with me to pick up your order!
wow can see my share on the left.
had paid and email you. see you soon!
jepoycapot
New Member
Guys,
I'm an overseas sales for fotoman camera. We just launched our new product(Dmax) recently and we have a wide range of products for LF and MF camera in place.
Right now we're trying to penetrate the Asian market, mainly Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand, for anyone who are interested please contact me @jeffrey_hartanto@yahoo.com. Our company mailbox is being upgraded due to some problem with the webmaster, I will post my company mailbox as soon as everything clears up.
Any suggestion where to put our ads/Thread @clubsnap.com?
I'm an overseas sales for fotoman camera. We just launched our new product(Dmax) recently and we have a wide range of products for LF and MF camera in place.
Right now we're trying to penetrate the Asian market, mainly Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand, for anyone who are interested please contact me @jeffrey_hartanto@yahoo.com. Our company mailbox is being upgraded due to some problem with the webmaster, I will post my company mailbox as soon as everything clears up.
Any suggestion where to put our ads/Thread @clubsnap.com?
Hey Jeffrey,
You can contact a mod to put up some ads. You could probably look for http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/members/cactus-jack.html
You can contact a mod to put up some ads. You could probably look for http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/members/cactus-jack.html
jepoycapot
New Member
Mamyoko,
Thanks for the advice. After reading the rules and regulations, it is to my understanding that commercial advertising is not allowed in this forum.
I will try to contact the moderator and the webmaster. Again, thanks for your help.
Thanks for the advice. After reading the rules and regulations, it is to my understanding that commercial advertising is not allowed in this forum.
I will try to contact the moderator and the webmaster. Again, thanks for your help.
tell us more about the DMAX as i know fotoman ceased operations a while back. Are they back in business and still operating out of china?
jepoycapot
New Member
Actually it never ceased the operations. After 3 years of developing a new products, Fotoman China decided it is time to penetrate the overseas market once more.
Maybe you can send me an e-mail at jeffrey_hartanto@fotoman.cc and I'll send you our latest products quotation, as I'm afraid talking more about Dmax will be counted as a commercial operation by the moderators.
hi all LF guru, experts and newbies,
after some reading, it seems that Rodenstock 150mm f5.6 is one of the best normal lens for 4x5, am i right? pls advice
links of the the lens below, i think they are the same lens right? I have doubt because keh.com didn't say Sironar
Rodenstock 150mm f/5.6 Apo-Sironar-S Lens 160702 B&H Photo Video
Large Format 150 F5.6 SINARON-S MC SINAR WITH BOARD, DB MOUNT (4X5) LARGE FORMAT VIEW LENS - KEH.com
i am considering this 150mm lens and nikkor 90mm f8 SW as a start. I read that most architecture shoots use the 90mm.
pls advice. tks alot
after some reading, it seems that Rodenstock 150mm f5.6 is one of the best normal lens for 4x5, am i right? pls advice
links of the the lens below, i think they are the same lens right? I have doubt because keh.com didn't say Sironar
Rodenstock 150mm f/5.6 Apo-Sironar-S Lens 160702 B&H Photo Video
Large Format 150 F5.6 SINARON-S MC SINAR WITH BOARD, DB MOUNT (4X5) LARGE FORMAT VIEW LENS - KEH.com
i am considering this 150mm lens and nikkor 90mm f8 SW as a start. I read that most architecture shoots use the 90mm.
pls advice. tks alot
wootsk
Deregistered
I'm using the Rodenstock 150mm F5.6 N version. The main difference between the N and S lies on the Image circle coverage. Frankly speaking, there is alot of coverage for the 150mm N version already.(From my POV, varies between people to people) I used to try the Nikkor 90mm F8 in the past, but sold it due to financial reason.(One of the best 90mm I tried). But the issue I have with it is that my noobish eye has a hate for F8 and above even with a fennel glass. Again that varies between people (I'm just a vege bird, you might be the one with the force and a pro.
)Frankly speaking, from my experience, except certain exceptional lens, all LF lens are quite the same. But I personally prefer Japan lens over European lens. (A warning that most reputated brand european old glass uses old cement method to join the glasses and as they are very old, they are like a time bomb where you won't know when the cement will weaken) I've shown some of those who went with me for shoot how my Schneider 90mm looks like with the de-cement. Still working fine now since I often use it with small aperture. Wonder how long more can it hang on before it request for a retire.
losheng
New Member
Well, welcome to the idiosyncrasy of confusing large format lens naming - Sironars and Sinarons with the various suffix designations are not the same. See the thread here. So the Sinaron S is Apo-Sironar N, and Apo-Sironar S is Sinaron SE. If you head begins to hurt trying to make sense of the different series - you are perfectly normal.
The general advice I see from most large format forums is to start with just one lens. Shooting with the large format has a different feel, so there's no need to invest in more than one lens right from the start. Get something cheap to start with, most 150mm and 135mm lens are very cheap - and then decide on your next lens after shooting with the first one for a while. Caltar lens are rebadged Schneider and Rodenstocks, and they are very value for money, so are the Fujinons. If you want to start with the 90mm, watch out if your camera needs a bag bellow or recessed lens board.
BTW - unless you are using the Sinar DB system, the second lens you listed might not be what you want. Otherwise you will have to spend more looking for a compatible shutter with calibrated aperture scale to remount the lens.
The general advice I see from most large format forums is to start with just one lens. Shooting with the large format has a different feel, so there's no need to invest in more than one lens right from the start. Get something cheap to start with, most 150mm and 135mm lens are very cheap - and then decide on your next lens after shooting with the first one for a while. Caltar lens are rebadged Schneider and Rodenstocks, and they are very value for money, so are the Fujinons. If you want to start with the 90mm, watch out if your camera needs a bag bellow or recessed lens board.
BTW - unless you are using the Sinar DB system, the second lens you listed might not be what you want. Otherwise you will have to spend more looking for a compatible shutter with calibrated aperture scale to remount the lens.
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