Kodak ISO Max 400

[ckiang]

Originally posted by Shadus


Agree.
However, using a tripod will solve part of his problem here. As he's taking action photography. Hence, using a tripod will get him sharp static objects. But for those moving ones, it'll still be blurified

Only solution -> Fast lens, Fast film, hope its sufficient.

In such situations, a tripod will not help at all, unless you are shooting night scenes of inanimate objects. In this case, the performers are moving.

Also forgot to add in my reply above that this unintended effect is also caused by 'front curtain flash'. The flash froze the object, but because of the slow shutter speed, there are also effects of camera shake, motion blur and ghosting of the subject all on one frame.

Regards
CK

 

[hackie]

Originally posted by ckiang


Huh? 1/400s is definitely NOT the slowest you can go on ISO 400. It's the slowest you can go on 400mm lens. The lowest hand holdable shutter speed does not have anything to do with the ISO rating of the film.

In such low light situations, the best bet is to use a high speed film like the Press 800 you mentioned and fast lenses (e.g. f/2.8 and faster).

Regards
CK

hehee... pai seh... got mixed up with the 1/focal length... :embrass:

 

[makan007]

I am using a Canon zoom lens of 28-80mm. Where to get a faster lens for my Canon EOS 500N?

 

[Shadus]

Originally posted by makan007
I am using a Canon zoom lens of 28-80mm. Where to get a faster lens for my Canon EOS 500N?

You asked a very dangerous question

This is where all the evil starts...

 

[hackie]

Originally posted by Shadus


You asked a very dangerous question

This is where all the evil starts...

:bsmilie: :bsmilie: :bsmilie:

 

[makan007]

Originally posted by Shadus


You asked a very dangerous question

This is where all the evil starts...

:bwhat: Recommend leh. My budget not high.

 

[Shadus]

Think the 50mm f1.8 is the most basic lens that nearly all photographers have. Its super fast (ie f1.8), its super light (one tiny thing), and its super cheap (only $130).

Get this lens first. The rest, only after u've grown further than consider. No point pouring money in many lens now until you've more or less know wht you want.

 

[Bluestrike]

Originally posted by makan007

:bwhat: Recommend leh. My budget not high.

Well... the 50/1.8 Mk II is a very solid piece of len...I don't believe it at first, but after trying out Docile's and Shadu's..... I went to get it liao!hehhee...

No regret!

Oso, if you think that $$$ is a problem, maybe you can try 3rd party lens.

 

[ckiang]

Originally posted by makan007
I am using a Canon zoom lens of 28-80mm. Where to get a faster lens for my Canon EOS 500N?

The cheapest way is to get the Canon 50mm f1.8. That's probably the best lens you can get for < $150.

If you want a zoom and have the money, go for the Canon EF 28-70mm f2.8L.

If you want a zoom in that class but not much money, go for the Tokina AF 28-70mm f/2.6-2.8 ATX Pro (II). ($650). Or if you like Sigma, the 24-70mm f2.8 EX DG whatever.

Regards
CK

 

[makan007]

Originally posted by Shadus
Think the 50mm f1.8 is the most basic lens that nearly all photographers have. Its super fast (ie f1.8), its super light (one tiny thing), and its super cheap (only $130).

Get this lens first. The rest, only after u've grown further than consider. No point pouring money in many lens now until you've more or less know wht you want.

What is f1.8? Why must I get a 50mm lens when I hav a 80mm lens? :bwhat:

 

[makan007]

Originally posted by Bluestrike

Well... the 50/1.8 Mk II is a very solid piece of len...I don't believe it at first, but after trying out Docile's and Shadu's..... I went to get it liao!hehhee...

No regret!

Oso, if you think that $$$ is a problem, maybe you can try 3rd party lens.

3rd party such as brands that are not manufacture by Canon rite?

 

[ckiang]

Originally posted by makan007

What is f1.8? Why must I get a 50mm lens when I hav a 80mm lens? :bwhat:

Because that 50mm is cheap and excellent.

f1.8 refers to the maximum aperture. Smaller number = bigger aperture = more light can come into the film = high shutter speed.

Your 28-80 is f/5.6 at the 80mm end. Assuming that gives you a shutter speed of 1/8 under the lighting conditions you experienced. The 50mm f/1.8 will let you shoot at about 1/80s. This effectively solves all your problems.

Regards
CK

 

[makan007]

Originally posted by ckiang


Because that 50mm is cheap and excellent.

f1.8 refers to the maximum aperture. Smaller number = bigger aperture = more light can come into the film = high shutter speed.

Your 28-80 is f/5.6 at the 80mm end. Assuming that gives you a shutter speed of 1/8 under the lighting conditions you experienced. The 50mm f/1.8 will let you shoot at about 1/80s. This effectively solves all your problems.

Regards
CK

Ok. Which is the best place to get it? Any website that I can further enhance my camera knowledge. Thanks to all. :thumbsup:

 

[Shadus]

Lets talk about the most basic thing about photography.

Photography is all about light. Photographers have 3 ways to control the amount of light falling on his film. Taking types of film into account.

1. Shutter speed.
Often, you see things like 1/125sec. This is how long your camera shutter remains open to let in light to the film. Naturally, the longer shutter speed, the more light is let into the film.

2. Lens Aperture
In your camera, you'll see things like f2.8 or f5.6 etc. This is the aperture size opening in your lens. The smaller the number, the bigger the lens opening. For example, f2 means that the lens opening is half the size of the whole lens area. f16 is 1/16 the size etc.

3. Film ISO rating
The higher the number, the more sensitive the film is to light. High ISO films like ISO 400, ISO 800 reacts to light very fast. Hence, they require less light compartively to lower ISO to properly expose an image

In photography, we talk about 'stops of light'. This is the measurement we talked about in photographer.

for example,

Shutter speed 1/30 lets in one stop more light than 1/60 etc....ie
... 1/2 -> 1/4 -> 1/8 -> 1/15 -> 1/30 -> 1/60 -> 1/125 -> 1/250 -> 1/500 -> 1/1000 ....

Film ISO (per stop of light)
... ISO 50 -> ISO 100 -> ISO 200 -> ISO 400 ...

Aperture (per stop of light)
... f2.8 -> f4 -> f5.6 -> f8 -> f11 -> ...

 

[Shadus]

With reference to your 'problem'.

Since you need faster shutter speed to effective 'freeze' those motions. And very 'unfortunately', light condition in the area isn't the most. So the 2 elements you can control is

1. Go to larger aperture (smaller f number)
2. Get faster film (higher ISO)

 

[Shadus]

And as ckiang hv mentioned, 50mm f1.8 can gives u aperture up to f1.8 (wow!) That's why its a super lens to get.

 

[makan007]

Shadus, thanks for the input. Really appreciate it. Lastly, where to get it?

 

[makan007]

Originally posted by Shadus

And very 'unfortunately', light condition in the area isn't the most.

Ermm... you mean there's not enough light in the surrounding?

 

[Shadus]

Recommend
-----------------
MS Color in AMK
Cathay photo in Peninsula
John 3:16 in Funan

EF 50mm f1.8 should cost about $130.

Highly recommend.
-----------------------
Join people from this forums who regularly go for photoshoots. This will enable u to pick up more things more quickly.

 

[makan007]

Do I need to bring my camera along to try out the new lens? Confirm can fit onto any models of camera?