K7 Tips and Tricks

[Gengh]

Ok I think im getting the hang of correctly exposing my shots but still getting blur shots even when SR is on ... Is it normal to get blur shots at speeds of about 1/25 to 1/50 ? I can feel the sr in LV but when I take long exposures like 10 secs I cant feel anything when I move the camera ... Anything to be worried about ?

Sounds like you're using the kit lens. You should be able to get sharp pics most of the time at 1/25 or 1/50, as long as your subject is not moving much. Do all your shots turn out blur, or just some of them? I'm just wondering if it might be OOF blur instead of handshake blur.

 

[Recoil3d]

actually im using a sigma 18-200mm f3.5-6.3 and most of my shots come out blur at the stated speeds

 

[henrywoo1978]

I am using the kit lens and I am facing this problem where when the object shift abit, the picture becomes blur. So is there any way which I can get shape image for this kind of situation?

TIA.

 

[Recoil3d]

I am using the kit lens and I am facing this problem where when the object shift abit, the picture becomes blur. So is there any way which I can get shape image for this kind of situation?

TIA.

if the objects/person moves i understand but i am taking shots of still objects in room lighting with lights off . i try to keep real still but still get blur pics ;( only if i make shutter speed higher but get dark shots or if i on the flash ...:sticktong

 

[teruranse]

if the objects/person moves i understand but i am taking shots of still objects in room lighting with lights off . i try to keep real still but still get blur pics ;( only if i make shutter speed higher but get dark shots or if i on the flash ...:sticktong

with lights off chances are the shutter will increase. you can confirm by checking the flash symbol flashing on and off in your viewfinder. to get sharp shots you can mount you camera on a tripod and use the timer control. this way you can control your aperture and shutter speed without the need to up your iso.

minimum requirement for stead shots is that your shutter speed must be bigger then your focal length.

 

[nameless1]

if the objects/person moves i understand but i am taking shots of still objects in room lighting with lights off . i try to keep real still but still get blur pics ;( only if i make shutter speed higher but get dark shots or if i on the flash ...:sticktong

In that case , use a tripod or pump up the ISO......

I am using the kit lens and I am facing this problem where when the object shift abit, the picture becomes blur. So is there any way which I can get shape image for this kind of situation?

TIA.

Sound like shutter not fast enough to capture the motion and very shallow depth of field using large aperture(easly lead to an out of focus).
Try make sure shutter speed alway pair with or above the value of the focal length, for example 200mm * 1.5 Crop factor = 300mm ~ use speed 1/300 sec or above.

 

[henrywoo1978]

Wah.. another poison detected.. think will die die have to buy a tripod this Friday when I go down to Funan. Any good recommendation?

TIA.

 

[Recoil3d]

thanks for the info but im still paranoid if my SR is faulty!!:think: also wanna ask when i set iso auto 100-800 in the menu when i press the info button why dosent the iso change by itself? it always stays the same whether bright or dark but the info menu show auto 100-800 ?? and i have to change it manually by pressing the button and cranking the e dial....

 

[darrrrrrrrrr]

if the objects/person moves i understand but i am taking shots of still objects in room lighting with lights off . i try to keep real still but still get blur pics ;( only if i make shutter speed higher but get dark shots or if i on the flash ...:sticktong

To avoid dark background when using flash, switch to M mode. Set the aperture and shutter speed combo (ISO 400-800, f5.6, 1/30s thereabouts as a starting point) to slightly underexpose the ambient and the flash will illuminate the foreground subject.

 

[woefulwabbit]

actually im using a sigma 18-200mm f3.5-6.3 and most of my shots come out blur at the stated speeds

It would be a lot helpful if you post some pics to show us what you mean, because blur can be caused by so many different things.

Sigma lenses are known to require AF calibration, so it could be uncalibrated AF. In which case you need to take it down to the Sigma service center somewhere in Bukit Merah and get it calibrated. It's free with warranty.

 

[cleonbong]

Wah.. another poison detected.. think will die die have to buy a tripod this Friday when I go down to Funan. Any good recommendation?

TIA.

Try cathay photo.Seen lots of tripods inside

 

[clownpo09]

thanks for the info but im still paranoid if my SR is faulty!!:think: also wanna ask when i set iso auto 100-800 in the menu when i press the info button why dosent the iso change by itself? it always stays the same whether bright or dark but the info menu show auto 100-800 ?? and i have to change it manually by pressing the button and cranking the e dial....

you would need to press the shutter for the iso to automatically adjust.

 

[Gengh]

I am using the kit lens and I am facing this problem where when the object shift abit, the picture becomes blur. So is there any way which I can get shape image for this kind of situation?

TIA.

If it's your object that's moving, there's nothing you can do about it. You'll just have to find a way to increase your shutter speed enough to freeze the motion. There're charts and formulas to calculate the shutter speeds required, but probably better to just trial and error a bit each time. Try something like 1/60 for a person walking normally, 1/200 if he's running. Shutter speed also needs to be faster if he's nearer, and can be slower if he's further away.

 

[Gengh]

actually im using a sigma 18-200mm f3.5-6.3 and most of my shots come out blur at the stated speeds

What focal length were you at when you took the pics at 1/25 or 1/50 shutter speed and found that they are blur? nameless1 explained just a few posts above the rule of thumb for choosing shutter speed at different focal lengths, and SR can give you an advantage of maybe 2-3 stops (ie. shutter speed can be slower by 4-8 times than the "rule of thumb" shutter speed). But SR doesn't do magic, and I personally find it less effective at longer focals. You still need to have good handholding techniques to get sharp pics near these borderline shutter speeds.

Anyway room with lights off is not exactly ideal for handheld photography, try adding a bit of light and you'll see big improvements.

 

[pinholecam]

Ok I think im getting the hang of correctly exposing my shots but still getting blur shots even when SR is on ... Is it normal to get blur shots at speeds of about 1/25 to 1/50 ? I can feel the sr in LV but when I take long exposures like 10 secs I cant feel anything when I move the camera ... Anything to be worried about ?

Might be easier if you started a separate thread for the issues you encounter.
Some sample picts of the issues you encountered would help a big deal as well.

Here is a novel way to know if your SR is working.
Go to the menu and adjust the focal length of your lens to 500mm, even though you are using a 28 or 50mm. Shoot your photo at below 1/200 in a well lit area that you are sure your shutter speed will prevent camera shake. You will notice your picts will still be very blur even though its not supposed to be so. This is due to the SR over compensating with the sensor counter movement for a 500mm lens rather than for a 28mm lens.

 

[Recoil3d]

you would need to press the shutter for the iso to automatically adjust.

I think its because i was using the p mode?:embrass: because if i use TAV mode it automatically changes wherever i point the camera ,dont need to af. btw i aslo think most of my blur shots come from shots that are zoomed to 200mm ...added to the fact the it was indoor with longer shutter speeds ... :sweat::sweat:

 

[woefulwabbit]

Metering starts when you half press the shutter release, and continues for 10 seconds after that (can be changed).

In P mode the ISO usually doesn't change much since when there is enough light, ISO 200 will be chosen and the Aperture and Shutter Speed is usually selected to change. When it gets dimmer, and the aperture cannot get any wider, and the shutter speed drops below the 1/focal-length rule, then P mode will choose to increase ISO.

In TAv mode, the aperture and shutter speed is fixed, so ISO is the only thing that can change automatically.

 

[Recoil3d]

Metering starts when you half press the shutter release, and continues for 10 seconds after that (can be changed).

In P mode the ISO usually doesn't change much since when there is enough light, ISO 200 will be chosen and the Aperture and Shutter Speed is usually selected to change. When it gets dimmer, and the aperture cannot get any wider, and the shutter speed drops below the 1/focal-length rule, then P mode will choose to increase ISO..

but it dosent change for me :bigeyes: if I set it to 800 when in a dark place the when i go into the sun and take photos of the sun "burns my eyes":bigeyes: the iso still remains at 800 and i have to manully adjust to iso100.... after that when i go into a dark room iso still remains at 100... even after half pressing it only increases my shutter and apertures ...

 

[woefulwabbit]

You have to set ISO to auto for it to automatically change.

 

[Recoil3d]

You have to set ISO to auto for it to automatically change.

does that mean when you go into the menu it say auto iso and you can change the range and also when you press info and they show iso 100-1600 ? becaus this is what i am doing now but it is not automatic:angry: ...