I am restless and discontented at this stage


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I agree with Clowns and it may have been the same issue with soons as well.

If you turn on all 9-AF points, the camera tries to be smart and predict what you want to focus on. But the centre focus point is usually the sharpest (or most accurate).

So, 2 things come into play here when selecting centre-focus point:
1. Select the focus point to centre-only
2. Select AF to One-shot

Selecting One-shot AF allows you to recompose the shot after focusing. Alternatively, if you are tracking the subject, then select AI-Servo. Do not try to recompose with AI-Servo because it will AF according to where the centre focus point is being moved to. Similarly, do not try to track a subject using One-Shot because it will not re-focus itself once AF is achieved initially.

So there's your answer after 6 pages:
1. Select centre-focus AF
2. Try shooting in RAW (in RAW, concentrate on getting the trinity correct - Shutter / Aperture / ISO. The rest can be manipulated)
3. Check for lens/body calibration problems
4. Practice handholding techniques
5. Practice shooting under different lighting conditions (at home etc)
6. Read the manual when in doubt
7. Ultimate decision - if the above still doesn't convince you that the 500D + 55-250IS is decent for you, buy a 5dMkII or something else.
 

Just a further analysis... Since there were 4 squares lit up, how can we determine which is really the one that the camera caused the lens to focus on?

When this happens, I usually interpret it as the cam thinks the subject (in this case, a tiger) and the background (tree leaves) are sufficiently far for them to be close together, ie at infinity. Apparently it is not because the leaves looked sharper than the tiger in the image posted by "mindfulness".

So can we say the auto select focusing points are not reliable? Since if it is accurate enough, it should have known that the distances from the cam to tiger and cam to leaves are different, and only the focusing points on the tiger should have been lit.

What if we need to use it in sports or in AI Servo mode? Is it reliable then?
 

Just a further analysis... Since there were 4 squares lit up, how can we determine which is really the one that the camera caused the lens to focus on?

When this happens, I usually interpret it as the cam thinks the subject (in this case, a tiger) and the background (tree leaves) are sufficiently far for them to be close together, ie at infinity. Apparently it is not because the leaves looked sharper than the tiger in the image posted by "mindfulness".

So can we say the auto select focusing points are not reliable? Since if it is accurate enough, it should have known that the distances from the cam to tiger and cam to leaves are different, and only the focusing points on the tiger should have been lit.

What if we need to use it in sports or in AI Servo mode? Is it reliable then?
in short, yes the auto select is IMHO not reliable.

for sports, generally the pros will use large aperture lenses, thus the bokeh will be able to help with the focussing and tracking of the moving main subject when on AI servo mode. but still i would suggest relying on the center sensor cuz the rest of the sensors are really not reliable (apart from the 1 series body)
 

Use the Center for focusing. My 450D has a cross type for Center which is suppose to be more accurate. Your 500D is likely to be similar.
Deciding to use this Center also helps you to control your focus point rather than to leave it to the camera. Half press to focus, recompose and fire away.
Try it.
 

Hi,

The tiger shot isn't too bad. It's about there for a consumer-grade lens + hand-holding. If you want sharper shots:

a) Use a higher ISO & higher shutter speed.
b) If light is sufficient, stop down to f8 or a smaller aperture.
c) Mount the camera on a tripod.
d) Upgrade the lens -- primes are sharpest. Or consider the 70-210/L (f4 or f2.8 version depending on your budget).
e) Tiger's movement (even the slightest) will naturally blur the shots. So you just have to wait for it to stay still.

Most important, have fun!

Rgds,

MW
 

Use the Center for focusing. My 450D has a cross type for Center which is suppose to be more accurate. Your 500D is likely to be similar.
Deciding to use this Center also helps you to control your focus point rather than to leave it to the camera. Half press to focus, recompose and fire away.
Try it.

First I will like to thank everyone for the help and tips, pardon me if my newbie questions lead to many pages of diagnostic. I am glad at least my IS lenses are fine :). I learnt about using Centre metering. Is this the same as Spot metering? My cam has Evaluative, Spot, center weighted, and partial metering. Which one is best?
 

First I will like to thank everyone for the help and tips, pardon me if my newbie questions lead to many pages of diagnostic. I am glad at least my IS lenses are fine :). I learnt about using Centre metering. Is this the same as Spot metering? My cam has Evaluative, Spot, center weighted, and partial metering. Which one is best?

I think you have to just read your camera's manual from cover to cover.....don't just simply ask....do your research and those obvious questions all are all found in your manual.
 

First I will like to thank everyone for the help and tips, pardon me if my newbie questions lead to many pages of diagnostic. I am glad at least my IS lenses are fine :). I learnt about using Centre metering. Is this the same as Spot metering? My cam has Evaluative, Spot, center weighted, and partial metering. Which one is best?

AF points are different from spot metering. Consult your manual, read and comprehend, and you will surely remember for life. I find self fulfillment more exciting. And also you don't get hammered for not asking. That's how I did it and after 4 months I am still learning.
 

a recently taken macro shot with 18-55mm lens

paekamaganfront-1.jpg


I miised out to mention that if you have Font/Back Focusing malfuntion with your camera it doesn't show in close up shots or anything focus less than 2 meter distance. The longer you zoom out the more it shows This was another decieving part than lenghten my F/B focusing agony.

I am surprise that there is still so much discussion on techniques than on a possible camera failure. A simple test will reveal everything, camera test is so objective wherelse techniques is so subjective.
 

i had the same problem with you sir with my E-520. I just thought the problem is with me because of my shaky hands which is why I just can't get a really good image. But I asked a couple of friends to try out my gear and they too shot noticeable blur (or maybe oof). I also tried their gears, and I almost wanted to switch camp at that very instant :bigeyes:

So I thought my gear was the problem, but is it the lens or body? unfortunately, I'm the only Oly user in the group so I can't test other lens or body. I did my homework and then I got myself a zuiko high grade lens and I immediately saw the difference. Bottom line, kit lenses may be very good for some, but not for others.

good luck to TS and happy shooting :)

Ronin, your camera may have Front/Back focusing misalligned by just a few cm. Olympus make one of the best kit lens and they are just as sharp. The trouble with this 'desease' is they are so decieving in so many ways.

I too went out to buy a high grade SWD 50-200 lens but my problem stiill exist. The moment they (Olympus) changed a new camera for me every lens of mine were dead sharp and I have 13 lenses.

But as I said mine was off focus by 20 cm, those whose camera are off focus by 3-5 cm may live with the camera for years without knowing they have a problem. So Ronin, do a focusing test , it is so simple to do.

When I buy my next camera I will, as advice by some sifus, bring a few lens and do focusing test on the spot before signing in the Guarantee card.
 

Just a further analysis... Since there were 4 squares lit up, how can we determine which is really the one that the camera caused the lens to focus on?

When this happens, I usually interpret it as the cam thinks the subject (in this case, a tiger) and the background (tree leaves) are sufficiently far for them to be close together, ie at infinity. Apparently it is not because the leaves looked sharper than the tiger in the image posted by "mindfulness".

So can we say the auto select focusing points are not reliable? Since if it is accurate enough, it should have known that the distances from the cam to tiger and cam to leaves are different, and only the focusing points on the tiger should have been lit.

What if we need to use it in sports or in AI Servo mode? Is it reliable then?

DSLR is not a "idiot" proof compact cam. DSLR is best used with adjustment on different situations. So best is not too rely on the tech too much. Best as some say is to use just a single pt AF. Use all AF pts only when u are tracking a subject with cleaner bckground (watersport, plane flying on blue sky etc) if the BG is messy, the world best DLSR may not get it right.
 

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As already advised by others, you will need to know the basics of photography.\

Not even knowing about centre focus AF, really means your knowledge of photography and techniques is still very shallow.
I believe some of us were wondering in dismay, that instead of trying to upgrade your techniques and understand technical aspects better when you have OOF photos, your first reaction was to upgrade to 5DMKII.

A better camera is not a ticket to award winning photos...

Your 500D is more than adequate for good and sharp photos. Better understanding of your equipment will give you better photos. (You will then realised you will have a higher proportion of good photos).
 

I believe some of us were wondering in dismay, that instead of trying to upgrade your techniques and understand technical aspects better when you have OOF photos, your first reaction was to upgrade to 5DMKII.

no no, TS should upgrade to 5D, that will make him pro and get superb sharp pictures :bsmilie:

PS: I hope to see him start a new thread complaining 5D not giving him sharp pictures, whats the next body to upgrade? :bigeyes:
 

i think we all agree it is a case of PLBVF.

thread close as it is degenerating into kopitiam talk. i think TS needs to go and study the manual a bit more.
 

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