I am restless and discontented at this stage


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Hmm ... let's not get into that debate, because there are exemplarary photographers in all camps, and just like religion and politics, and sex even, there will never be an 'answer' to satisfy everyone.

I do know, however, of some self-proclaimed 'artists' or 'artistic-photographers' who simply are too lazy or for various reasons, not able to grasp or master the technicalities.

Some produce very interesting work and that was what they intended, and for others, whatever super blur lah wrong colour casts etc etc etc I suspect were not a matter of deliberate design and plans, but random haphazardness.

Who are we to argue that their work has no artistic merit, or has artistic merit? Even art critics and connoisseurs fall into different camps, ideologies etc etc etc.

Similarly, many technically super slick works may tend to be repetitive and boring to other audiences. Look into any of the major mainstream editorials and so much fashion and advertising work look similar. If you've been around mainstream commercial photographers and know the behind closed doors chatter, .. oh well, if you know, you know.

What it boils down to is, I guess, a requirement to fufill different criteria for different purposes and target audiences. Try submitting a blurred, badly exposed photograph to a panel of salon masters and see that photo get rejected without as much as a second glance. Submit editorial work for Interview or some other alternative publication and if it's a technically perfect piece, it might just get hoo-harred as being void and soul-less and a product of mass-capatilism or whatever super vouge but vauge verbosity etc etc etc.

Anyways, I am a noob in these areas. As someone mentioned, 'I just too damn free!' :bsmilie:
 

;p

Oi! just pulling yr lens lah!!:bsmilie:

Arts is meant to be subjective lah. Not subjective then call it "Science" already..

so which is more important to you? Arts or Science?
 

Just to share, I think the sharpness is not there ... using the EFS 55-250mm:

tiger.jpg


tiger2.jpg


pp can helps a bit la.. just my try.. :)
 

"I believe my handheld technique is good enough to take sharp photos but the results rather not to my liking."

I like your confidence but :D I think many pros will not dare to make a claim like this.

At a zoom of 154mm and shutter speed of 125, camera shake is a very likely reason your image is blur. The IS system, when turned on, will actually decrease sharpness.

If I were you, I will get a good tripod or monopod before I start blaming my camera.
 

As far as I am concerned, there is no issue with sharpness in 500D.

I took this with my 100mm Macro and pop up flash. Resized and added the 100% crop with GIMP and added the 'SPECIMEN' text as required by law. No sharpening applied.

3622061775_ff14ce7208.jpg


Bigger File

Original Image

Note that the note lies unevenly on my bed, this explains why parts of it is out of focus. Where it is in focus, the sharpness is very good.

Camera: 500D with 100mm f2.8 Macro
Autofocus
Manual Mode
ISO 200
Shutter Speed 1/125
f5.6
Flash Fired
 

The kit lens is actually not that bad lah, not good, but still usable, I guess. I just got my first dslr 2 days ago and I had to go for the kit lens due to budget constraint. After two days of exploring, I think it is still usable, but if I have the budget, I will definately go for the 5DII and all the red rubber bands.:bsmilie: End of the day, as long as you are happy, why bother about what we say right?

A few photos I took with my kit lens as a totally new newbie...all shot in jpg with zero post processing.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39401710@N02/3622995631/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39401710@N02/3623860276/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39401710@N02/3623032049/in/photostream/

Most importantly...
3622990097_45e5af511d_b_d.jpg
;p
55mm on kit lens @f/5.6 w/o pp or sharpening.
Sorry for the two white reflection patches, a bit distracting.
 

To TS, I, too, own the 500D and 55-250IS, but issues like PQ and sharpness are subjective.

What's sharp to me may not necessarily be what you are hoping to achieve and what looks "acceptable" may look like trash to you. :)

Having said that, my personal take on the above combi is that it's pretty decent. It could all boil down to handling, settings, time of day (afternoon is usually not a very good time to take pics at the Zoo, as compared to morning or evening - the sunlight creates a kind of "flat" environment - or at least, that's my personal take on it).

Here's my 500D + 55-250IS taking a shot of my sharpness/calibration-check sheet:

IMG_0592_1.jpg


Had to resize cos the image was way too big.

EXIF:
3456x2304
72dpi
Canon EOS 500D
f/4.5
1/15sec (handheld)
ISI-400
0 step Exposure bias
90mm focal length
Partial metering
Aperture Priority
Auto WB

100% crop:
IMG_0592_2.jpg
 

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tiger2.jpg


pp can helps a bit la.. just my try.. :)

thanks, the pic looks better, what settings do you adjust? care to share eg what software, etc. Have you used Canon ex-zoom browser before?
 

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Allow me to say something of my similar experience here. I too am a dslr newbie having stop film photography for 15 or so years. I am now 57 yrs young. I suspect Mindfulness may have the same problem.

When I first got my Dslr (Olympus e520) I took some sharp pictures but mostly blurred or oof pictures. I used to take very sharp pictures in my film camera days and I could do hand held even in slow shutter speed so Initially I thought I have aged since and either my eye sight or/and my nerve have since gave way. I was looking for all kinds of reasons, myself, wrong function settings, my lens being a kit lens, or my camera brand as I compared with my friends' C n N on those same shots. I even bought a Tripod and a Monopod to steady my shots and but then many more shots were still blurred. Finally I took the bravery to post my pictures in two forums, one I kena "hantam kau kau" of no standard and all kinds of insults but on the other a kind sifu immediately pointed out I may have front focusing problem by 20cm.

Immediately I searched and read up on this Front/back focusing thingy and I followed and did the test and true enough I have a "deseased camera" , I took it back to Olympus for warranty and after much lengthy repair , change parts, to and fro of three trips it still failed to focus correctly and I finally got a new camera replacement (thanks to Olympus). Now my pictures are (mostly) all in focus.

What I am saying here is, there is one out of every thousand (or hundred) cameras that is manufactured have this problem. The worst thing about this F/B focusing malfunction is 1. everything look sharp on the focusing screen and this will fool you. 2. some pictures you got it right ( I believe this are the ones that would be wrong if your camera is right) 3. It is harder for you to realise it if your F/B focusing is only 3-5 cm off. I was lucky because mine was off by 20 cm.

Mindfulness, do a test too and see if this is your problem too. As I can see here we are looking for all kind of reasons , going into the lack of skills, attitudes of expectations and what nots. I have kena 6 months of self doubts and "hantam" untill I discover the real problem.

Wish you the best.
 

my try...
PP'ed in irfanview to correct WB and to boost contrast and sharpening.
113739491.jpg
 

my try...
PP'ed in irfanview to correct WB and to boost contrast and sharpening.
113739491.jpg

thanks for the attempt .. but in reality using the naked eye at the time of shootingi the tiger in the cloudy evening, the version by ascerpic is closer to reality especially the tiger's skin has a yellowish tone than white in reality and I must add, the original take by the camera also showed yellowish skin tone :)
 

thanks for the attempt .. but in reality using the naked eye at the time of shootingi the tiger in the cloudy evening, the version by ascerpic is closer to reality especially the tiger's skin has a yellowish tone than white in reality and I must add, the original take by the camera also showed yellowish skin tone :)
Whatever photo captured, the camera will apply a White balance setting to correct the view and make the white areas as white as possible. When set to Auto mode, the camera attempts to determine by itself what levels of correction it needs to do. Most of the time, that is pretty ok. But there will be times when one has to personally choose a different setting, instead of the camera's decision, to get the desired output.

One quick method to help oneself determine the "correct" WB value is to carry a pure white card during photo-taking. Under the current lighting conditions, take a full-blown photo of the white card, and tell the camera to use that photo as the Custom WB setting.
 

Whatever photo captured, the camera will apply a White balance setting to correct the view and make the white areas as white as possible. When set to Auto mode, the camera attempts to determine by itself what levels of correction it needs to do. Most of the time, that is pretty ok. But there will be times when one has to personally choose a different setting, instead of the camera's decision, to get the desired output.

One quick method to help oneself determine the "correct" WB value is to carry a pure white card during photo-taking. Under the current lighting conditions, take a full-blown photo of the white card, and tell the camera to use that photo as the Custom WB setting.

thanks for the WB tip .. what if the object is faraway say under a shade which lighting condition is not the same as where you are, the white cardboard test works?
 

thanks for the WB tip .. what if the object is faraway say under a shade which lighting condition is not the same as where you are, the white cardboard test works?

Tinker with it during RAW post processing.
 

thanks for the attempt .. but in reality using the naked eye at the time of shootingi the tiger in the cloudy evening, the version by ascerpic is closer to reality especially the tiger's skin has a yellowish tone than white in reality and I must add, the original take by the camera also showed yellowish skin tone :)

Question is - what do you want to capture?

The helpful many who have tried PP'ing your pic for you are doing so based on what they feel are positive enhancements to your picture, and their attempts are to show you what can be done after taking them.

Is Zaren's PP'ed picture a possible representation of the white tiger? Definitely so. And so are the rest.

Instead of telling them that their representation are wrong or not what you had in mind, it would be more constructive to see the difference and acknowledge the improvements or possibilities.
 

IMHO, sometimes is due to how to hand held correctly, how to focus correctly. Then lran about the light... Me still learning.
 

Thanks for the information discussed here.
I am facing the same problem with my previous 450D with a 9X Zoom lens and a 50mm F1.8 prime lens.
For the prime lens, I notice that I always focus on the wrong thing. (sian)
As for the 9X Zoom lens, it seems that at 200MM, it is kind of poor quality I feel.
In the end, I sold the DSLR away, due to outstanding school fees, sticking back to my Cannon S5 IS.

When I have the bucks, I really wish to try out 500D. Darn... or is it going to be 550D already?? Lolx
However, based on my experience with 450D, I am really wonder if I am too lousy to use 500D or future DSLR, since I could take decent photos on S5 IS, but I cannot produce similar images on my previous 450D. :/
 

Thanks for the information discussed here.
I am facing the same problem with my previous 450D with a 9X Zoom lens and a 50mm F1.8 prime lens.
For the prime lens, I notice that I always focus on the wrong thing. (sian)
As for the 9X Zoom lens, it seems that at 200MM, it is kind of poor quality I feel.
In the end, I sold the DSLR away, due to outstanding school fees, sticking back to my Cannon S5 IS.

When I have the bucks, I really wish to try out 500D. Darn... or is it going to be 550D already?? Lolx
However, based on my experience with 450D, I am really wonder if I am too lousy to use 500D or future DSLR, since I could take decent photos on S5 IS, but I cannot produce similar images on my previous 450D. :/

The longer the zoom....the poorer the quality is going to be. This days I prefer primes if you want quality. A 50F1.8 will beat 28-300L hands down in terms of quality even thought 28-300 is a L lens.
 

simple lah. can sense TS not convinced. let him be, let him learnt an expensive lesson, go whack and buy 5D, it confirm make him pro and gave him superb sharp pics. :bsmilie:

but what happens later he starts another thread and not happy with 5D? :sweatsm:
 

The longer the zoom....the poorer the quality is going to be. This days I prefer primes if you want quality. A 50F1.8 will beat 28-300L hands down in terms of quality even thought 28-300 is a L lens.
I always tend to focus on the wrong subject when I am using 50mm F1.8.

Also, it is normal for photographers to stop down to F3.2/F4 to get a clearer image from the 50mm F1.8 Lens right? Most of my 50mm F1.8 shots are pretty soft at ISO 800, indoor without flash.

*Phail*
 

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