How to shoot banquet?

[CreaXion]

creaxion,
ok ok:sweat: :sweat: :sweat:

so HOW do i match my d200 'okaylah' pics with print pics?
but as long as i see screen ok, print should be ok right?
else?how do i go about doing it?please teach me.
:lovegrin:

To give an eg. Sometimes, when u look at photos on the screen, the yellowishness or warmth of the photo on screen looks nice however, when send for print, the photo looks totally different from what is expected.

Sometimes, colour failure also occurs which cannot be detected on screen.

U need not send all your pics for print as it is quite expensive but rather chose a few to know whether your settings are correct. However, u cannot send to those shops like Photo Finish or else your photos also finished. Send it to reputable labs for print. Where are u staying and maybe some forumers can introduce u to some labs. After u print, u will notice a big difference between screen and print.

When u are able to differentiate what is wrong with your photo, then u can shoot better. Another reason why u send for print is to let the developer tell u what is wrong with your colour. That is how I tune my camera settings so that I can get the pics I want. However, that is provided your shooting is consistent so that the problem can be identified.

 

[jeanie]

ok, so i must send my prints to be printed first before i adjust my camera to 'correct' the color difference?
that's ASSUMING the print lab machine is consistent too right?i heard they can correct the colors on their machine?what if they correct everytime i send for prints?then it wont be consistent also rite?

 

[CreaXion]

ok, so i must send my prints to be printed first before i adjust my camera to 'correct' the color difference?
that's ASSUMING the print lab machine is consistent too right?i heard they can correct the colors on their machine?what if they correct everytime i send for prints?then it wont be consistent also rite?

U ask very gd qns and that is why we think that u have gd potential. Photography is a mix of logic and aesthetics. From your posts, I noticed you ask relevant qns pertaining to your problem.

Good lab developers are consistent. They can give u gd feedback abt your photos. Give u an eg. When I try out my new settings on my camera and shoot it in different environment so as to test consistency, my developer will tell me whether I seem to have too much of a certain colour like yellow or what. He will tell me that he has reduce or increase what colours to my photos. From there, I tune my camera. Sometimes, the issues may be a matter of whitebalance. In a certain way of speaking, I have already done some post processing to my images.

Hope u can understand better.

 

[jeanie]

U ask very gd qns and that is why we think that u have gd potential. Photography is a mix of logic and aesthetics. From your posts, I noticed you ask relevant qns pertaining to your problem.

Good lab developers are consistent. They can give u gd feedback abt your photos. Give u an eg. When I try out my new settings on my camera and shoot it in different environment so as to test consistency, my developer will tell me whether I seem to have too much of a certain colour like yellow or what. He will tell me that he has reduce or increase what colours to my photos. From there, I tune my camera. Sometimes, the issues may be a matter of whitebalance. In a certain way of speaking, I have already done some post processing to my images.

Hope u can understand better.

i understand.thanks.
but that also means i have to learn how to tune my camera.phew!:bigeyes:
i need 8 days in a week to really get more serious about photography.
given my work schedule and such...sigh...

 

[CreaXion]

i understand.thanks.
but that also means i have to learn how to tune my camera.phew!:bigeyes:
i need 8 days in a week to really get more serious about photography.
given my work schedule and such...sigh...

Welcome to the world of photography. It sucks u in.

 

[MDZ2]

Agree with Creaxion. Sometimes its good to make friends with people in photolab. Especially now with digital. Give you an example. I recently did some family and couple studio shoots for my in-laws, went home and started adjusting the brightness and contrast until I thought the pictures looked good. After that, I sent to the lab and noticed many things.
1. if you do too much adjustment to JPEG pics (even simple things like brightness) the colour fallout can become very obvious and look artificial.
2. Using Lasso tool also not a good idea. Even though you set the feather to very fine gradation, if you play around with contrast too much, you will see a very clear border between the adjusted and non adjusted areas. Very ugly.
There are a few more things which I can't seem to think off right now, but I'm sure you get the picture. have to qualify, though, that above is restricted to JPEGs only as I have no experience with RAW or TIFF (my TIFF all converted from JPEG, as recommended by some forumers to prevent data loss during PS).
My point being, all these things, you will not notice on your own monitor. Must print out to notice. so if you think you are never going to print out your pictures, then probably won't need to be so critical on your exposure and stuff. But then what's the point right?

Oh BTW regarding using Manual mode, most of the people recommend manual mode in flash photography is because with flash photography, the shutter speed is taken out of the equation in so much as the flash exsposure is concerned. So setting to aperture priority will become pointless since the shutter speed is fixed to max sync speed (Not counting FP mode of course). So basically, what most people would do is set the shutter and aperture to match ambient condition to get as much BG as possible (while maintaining a high enough shutter speed to prevent motion blurr. Eg. 1/30), and let the TTL flash correctly expose the subjects.
Hope this helps.

 

[ortega]

if you want to edit,

edit the big file
and then resize the the size of your print
then USM
then "save as" lowest compression jpeg

 

[MDZ2]

if you want to edit,

edit the big file
and then resize the the size of your print
then USM
then "save as" lowest compression jpeg

Actually what does USM do?

 

[DeWei]

USM = Unsharp Mask

 

[MDZ2]

USM = Unsharp Mask

Know what it stands for, but what does it do exactly/technically?

 

[Cheesecake]

Agree with Creaxion. Sometimes its good to make friends with people in photolab. Especially now with digital. Give you an example. I recently did some family and couple studio shoots for my in-laws, went home and started adjusting the brightness and contrast until I thought the pictures looked good. After that, I sent to the lab and noticed many things.
1. if you do too much adjustment to JPEG pics (even simple things like brightness) the colour fallout can become very obvious and look artificial.
2. Using Lasso tool also not a good idea. Even though you set the feather to very fine gradation, if you play around with contrast too much, you will see a very clear border between the adjusted and non adjusted areas. Very ugly.
There are a few more things which I can't seem to think off right now, but I'm sure you get the picture. have to qualify, though, that above is restricted to JPEGs only as I have no experience with RAW or TIFF (my TIFF all converted from JPEG, as recommended by some forumers to prevent data loss during PS).
My point being, all these things, you will not notice on your own monitor. Must print out to notice. so if you think you are never going to print out your pictures, then probably won't need to be so critical on your exposure and stuff. But then what's the point right?

Oh BTW regarding using Manual mode, most of the people recommend manual mode in flash photography is because with flash photography, the shutter speed is taken out of the equation in so much as the flash exsposure is concerned. So setting to aperture priority will become pointless since the shutter speed is fixed to max sync speed (Not counting FP mode of course). So basically, what most people would do is set the shutter and aperture to match ambient condition to get as much BG as possible (while maintaining a high enough shutter speed to prevent motion blurr. Eg. 1/30), and let the TTL flash correctly expose the subjects.
Hope this helps.

1stly, calibrate ur monitors. can do this by getting spyder pro and such.

2ndly, learn how to use Photoshop the expert and right way. Scott Kelby's Photoshop CS2 for Digital Photographers is available in RiceBall. highly recommended.

3rdly, it is good to haf a systematic way of editing ur fotos. maybe most ppl would always start with the original size and edit away. cropping and resizing along the way, and save the edited version seperately and then resize for prints.

lastly, shooting in Manual mode for night time flash photography is simply becos the fotographers can adjust and compensate quickly after the first take. i dare say most who use manual modes know wat they're doing and wat they'll be getting.

 

[Cheesecake]

Know what it stands for, but what does it do exactly/technically?

simply sharpens ur foto.

 

[ortega]

Know what it stands for, but what does it do exactly/technically?

do a google on unsharp mask

in short it visually sharpens your image
but do a google on how it is achieved
and what the settings does

 

[CreaXion]

Generally, I dun do PS for events. Reason is that I sux in my consistency of getting the same colour tone. If colour tone different, then the photo album will sux. Usually, what I do is I select what I need and print. After printing all the pics, I may have 1 to 3 pix that needs to PS. That is when I will PS and then send for print again.

 

[Chris Lim]

hey guys pardon my noob question. I've experienced some green tinge in some of my shots indoors during my first shoot. I know that when the inhouse tungsten light mixes with the flash light a green tine is form. Is there a consistency that i can achieve and prevent the green tinge from happening? Also i use the dome indoors and realise that for some shots the photos turn out terribly underexposed and for some just nice even though they might be just 2 shots apart at the same distance and subject. Has this got to do with my AE?

 

[CreaXion]

hey guys pardon my noob question. I've experienced some green tinge in some of my shots indoors during my first shoot. I know that when the inhouse tungsten light mixes with the flash light a green tine is form. Is there a consistency that i can achieve and prevent the green tinge from happening? Also i use the dome indoors and realise that for some shots the photos turn out terribly underexposed and for some just nice even though they might be just 2 shots apart at the same distance and subject. Has this got to do with my AE?

Wat configuration of the cam u are using?
What dome are u referring to?
What settings do u shoot in for that kind of situation u mention?

 

[catchlights]

hey guys pardon my noob question. I've experienced some green tinge in some of my shots indoors during my first shoot. I know that when the inhouse tungsten light mixes with the flash light a green tine is form. Is there a consistency that i can achieve and prevent the green tinge from happening? Also i use the dome indoors and realise that for some shots the photos turn out terribly underexposed and for some just nice even though they might be just 2 shots apart at the same distance and subject. Has this got to do with my AE?

tungsten give you yellow,
fluorescent give you green,
so which one you are talking?

 

[DT_]

whaa.. this thread now consist of A-Z of shooting banquet tables.. from how to switch on your dslr, ...., shooting tech, ...., post processing, ..., to final print presentation.. how comprehensive..

 

[DT_]

This might ease a little, Angle Finder.

../azul123

cannot leh.. no use to the up down left right.. make me giddy wait i faint...

 

[MDZ2]

1stly, calibrate ur monitors. can do this by getting spyder pro and such.

2ndly, learn how to use Photoshop the expert and right way. Scott Kelby's Photoshop CS2 for Digital Photographers is available in RiceBall. highly recommended.

3rdly, it is good to haf a systematic way of editing ur fotos. maybe most ppl would always start with the original size and edit away. cropping and resizing along the way, and save the edited version seperately and then resize for prints.

lastly, shooting in Manual mode for night time flash photography is simply becos the fotographers can adjust and compensate quickly after the first take. i dare say most who use manual modes know wat they're doing and wat they'll be getting.

I agree that monitor calibration is important to get get as close to the correct exposure and colour correction. But what I was refering to was the colouration that is not obvious on LCD monitors. It wasn't apparent on the lab's monitor as well. It was my friend at the lab who clued me in on those subtleties of photo editing that don't print very well, and I think it has to do with the limitations of the LCD monitor in capturing these. Or perhaps its because we are using cheap monitors :dunno: Also will check out the book you recommended. Thanks.