gohfigure said:could i kindly enquire as to when would be the best time to cut the negatives to a more manageable length? just before drying? and how many frames would you consider a good length to cut at. thanks in advance.
...... developing at room temperature thread in offstone is NOT Stand Developing as your tutorial describes in this thread. That thread serves to inform as an alternative way to develop your negative using the conventional way and also, your described method, Stand developing.StreetShooter said:Then I came across the thread in Offstone about developing at room temperature, and what is now known as "stand developing"
StreetShooter said:...
First you use a syringe and draw out the appropriate amount of HC-110 developer (you can use other developers of course, but the concentrations will be different). I use only 5 ml of it. If you are using the powder or liquid preparations, you may need a measuring jug or cylinder to measure out the amounts. Then squirt it into your mixing container, and add water. I use a 500ml bottle of mineral water (so that I know it's 500 ml).
Knock the tank against the sink a couple of times to dislodge air bubbles trapped on the negatives. Then agitate for 10 seconds, using the stirrer stick that comes with the development tank and fits into the funnel. Then set your timer (note the brand loyalty) and wait. For Tri-X 400 exposed at ISO 1600, that would be about 20 minutes. Try 12 minutes for ISO 400, and 16 minutes for ISO 800.
...
chgoh said:Hi StreetShooter,
Thanks for the very informative "web demo".
Looks like you are using HC-110 at 1:100 dilution and for TriX the development times are 12min for ISO400, 16 min for ISO800 and 20min for ISO1600 at ~ 27°C-28°C. Are these the results of your experiments or were they recommended somewhere else?
TIA
chgoh @ 12:20 pm, 24 September 2003
jon33 said:hi all...
you can pull the film out of the canister without using a film picker. just a small trick i learnt, especially useful when you forget to bring your film picker.
1. use a piece of semi-hard cardboard, or any reasonably rigid material(not too thick, must be able to fit into the slot of the canister) and a piece of double sided tape (about 5cm long) pasted legthwise on one end.
2. stick the end cardboard with the double sided tape (facing down) into the canister slot, until about 3-4cm is in the canister.
3. turn the canister winder away from the cardboard slowly. if all goes well, the cardboard should move in when you turn the winder. if not, pull the cardboard out and repeat step 2.
4. slowly pull the cardboard out. the fi;m leader should come out together with the cardboard.
hope this helps.
thanks SS for the tut on developing. anyone know when CP has any stock of tri-x bulk roll now?
eddyvlad said:Any tutorial on Colour negatives and Postives?
Ah Pao said:Apparently the C-41 (for color negs) and E-6 (for color positives) processes use quite toxic chemicals. Temperature and timing is apprarently very crucial as well as color films are much more sensitive to these.
Just save the effort and spend $3 developing them at your friendly minilab!
akane said:you push you extend the developing time..
so you pull you cut the developing time? keke
me still learning..so.........
sequitur said:theoratically yes, but practically... uh.. dunno who got try before. and the results... hehhehheh... :devil: if screw up impt roll means really screw up
hahaha