fatigue
Senior Member
You looked like you've just diffused a plutonium bomb! :thumbsup: Impressive!
Thanks, here's another bomb :bsmilie:

Last edited:
You looked like you've just diffused a plutonium bomb! :thumbsup: Impressive!
Thanks, here another bomb :bsmilie:
![]()
Hi Paul, first of all, welcome to Clubsnap. Im glad your 1st and 2nd posts are on the thread I started.
Your procedure is great!
Sometimes, you can take advantage of the difference in height of the 2 small metal pieces to slide-in the aperture control. If the 2 small pieces doesnt want to cooperate, then I use my sharpened chopstick.
Thank for helping me out! I find it really hard to describe the procedure of sliding the aperture control, a procedure that usually takes a few seconds to perform.
Isn't it nice to see more people stripping their lenses, bodies etc?:thumbsup:
Hey! you started it. :bsmilie:
And after this I suppose you know how to collimate it?
First time poster, long time shooter here.
Apologies for reviving an old thread, but I recently had an issue with my AF-S 28-70mm which might be similar to the one discussed in "AFS ED 28-70 F2.8 lens focus problem?" thread
When autofocussing, the lens seems to get stuck between the 3 and 5 meter mark. Sometimes when I purposely make it hunt (focus to macro and then back to infinity) the lens has a chance of getting over the 3 and 5 meter mark due to the momentum, I can see there that is some resistance as it focuses across that point. When it gets stuck, I can lightly nudge the focus ring or give it a tap and the focus will continue pass the point. It seems that something is causing the SWM to jam at that particular point in the focus track. The manual focus ring is smooth, and I do not feel any resistance when turning past 3 and 5 meters so it seems to be isolated to the SWM mechanism, which makes me think that my issue might be different to the one in fatigue's thread (just guessing). Also, my lens does not make a screeching sound when focussing. It is one of the rare few that focuses silently!
If anyone else has experienced this in the past, could you let me know if the issue was caused by the SWM? Knowing my Nikon Service Centre here, they will probably recommend replacing the SWM but that might not be the cause of the problem, especially if the loose flex circuit board is also able to cause the problem that I described above. Thanks in advance!
Thanks, here's another bomb :bsmilie:
![]()
OlyFlyer said:Admit it... you like dropping things so you can have a good excuse to pull them apart and repair them. :bsmilie:
After all, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" Isn't that so? Anyway, keep on dropping your stuff, I like to see how you are fixing them. :thumbsup:
Our brother Fatigue is a CS repair pro many of us turn to for a good service. Nice and approachable gentleman. Others drop them, he fixes others mistake.
Wow, as a 28-70mm f2.8 owner myself, I was fascinated to see what was inside 'The Beast'.. Nice work fatigue! :thumbsup:
Hi Paul, first of all, welcome to Clubsnap. Im glad your 1st and 2nd posts are on the thread I started.
Your procedure is great!
Sometimes, you can take advantage of the difference in height of the 2 small metal pieces to slide-in the aperture control. If the 2 small pieces doesnt want to cooperate, then I use my sharpened chopstick.
Thank for helping me out! I find it really hard to describe the procedure of sliding the aperture control, a procedure that usually takes a few seconds to perform.