High contrast black & white film

[monty]

anyone know where to get series 7 filter?

 

[newghost]

anyone know where to get series 7 filter?

Sent you a PM... i may have 1 or 2 sitting around

 

[FBA]

Hokay...alot of good advice here...let me put some sense into this:

note: in analog photography, there is a lot of rule-of-thumb advice,
ie. shortcuts that work for people but it doesn't mean that it will
work for everyone else. this is very different from digital photography
where photoshop instructions are very deterministic.

okay, back to your question: How do you get High Contrast photos.

1. Some films are naturally high contrast. eg. Fuji Acros 100.

2. Compared with old single coated lens, modern lenses are naturally higher in contrast.
eg. Nokton 35/f1.4 MC multi-coated is higher in contrast. Nokton 35/f1.4 SC single coated
is lower in contrast.

3. Underexposure + Over-Development = increase in contrast.

eg. Neopan 400 is supposed to be shot at iso 400, but you expose it at 1600 iso, (ie. 2 stops from 400 -> 800 -> 1600)
and you develop it as-if it were a 1600 film, this is known as pushing.

Increased in Agitation while developing will increase in contrast.

4. The printing part can be adjusted to increase in contrast. In the ole days,
you would take a negative and enlarge it to make a print. Depending on the paper
or the enlarger you can increase the contrast. eg. grade 1 to 5. where 5 is high contrast.

In the modern world, we now scan negatives with our scanner. Increase in contrast
can of course be done digitally through the scanning software or through Photoshop.

5. Other variables:
* Choice of Developer also affects the contrast, eg. Universal developer like PQ Developer results in higher contrasts.
* Your lighting and expsoure
* Filters increase contrasts.

here is an example:

Leica CL with canon 50/f1.9 with yellow filter.
film is tri-x 400, pushed one stop to 800 iso
and developed in t-max developer.

(how many higher contrast elements did you count in there ?)

Hi bro,

This image was it developed iat EI 800 or 400? I noticed you mentioned the box speed is ISO400. Since my aim is to eliminate most of the greys, would a yellow or red filter be better for this purpose?

Thanks!

Fari

 

[raytoei]

pushed 1 stop from 400 to 800, and developed at 800.
i dun use filter so much, so i can't comment.
the one time i use RED filter on taking people shots: they look like ghost,
skin white white, hair and eyes black black...

Hi bro,

This image was it developed iat EI 800 or 400? I noticed you mentioned the box speed is ISO400. Since my aim is to eliminate most of the greys, would a yellow or red filter be better for this purpose?

Thanks!

Fari

 

[enivre]

the one time i use RED filter on taking people shots: they look like ghost,
skin white white, hair and eyes black black...

Red filters usually are not meant to be used to shoot people. It's usually meant to get contrast between the clouds and the blue sky.

A red filter doesn't = more contrast

I forgot what's the "maths" behind it, but other coloured filters can be used for other things as well, like a green filter if I remember correctly to separate the different shades of green when shooting a forest scene for example.

In any case it all depends on what colour your subject is.

 

[Riotbmx]

Newbie here so please don't take what I say too seriously because I prolly don't know what I'm talking about.

I got pretty good results from the Agfa APX100. Pushed 2 stops with orange filter. The scan quality is bad (I used a really low quality scanner), but still look pretty decent to me(maybe I haven't aquired good taste yet). These are straight out of scanner, no edit of contrast and exposure digitally.

This is shot without filter on the same roll

 

[zgim80]

Just be careful of overdoing it, high contrast negs also might mean that they contain less information to pull out down the line.

I'm a little rusty with all the B&W film development stuff, but I remember my preference was to have neutral negs which are easier to scan and then bump up contrasts in post (either in the darkroom or in lightroom).

But this method doesn't mean you can do without filters, no amount of post can get you the look of having a red filter on.

100% agree. For portraiture, slightly higher contrast can hide slight imperfections, but intense contrast will result in a sadako photo-shoot. Unless that's what you're looking for hehe. Perhaps for architectural wide-angles, high contrast would be most beneficial (if details are not as pertinent).

But then again, you should always shoot according to your preferences.