[ Gallery ] Photos from E-P1


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maybe cause of metering? Since it is TTL,which could affect the flash output,try manual,if manual works fine,my guess is the metering
 

maybe cause of metering? Since it is TTL,which could affect the flash output,try manual,if manual works fine,my guess is the metering

but looking at his second set of shots with the bear, i would expect TTL to underexpose rather than overexpose since the background is light.
 

sigh.. i though i mentioned it performed the same in M mode and A mode..
still dont believe this ?
same discussion on Dpreview for Fl-14

I got the FL-14 yesterday and I am very disappointed. The metering is very inconsistent : it's either ok or way too bright?.
I'm used to Nikon's Flash, and i had never encounter such behaviour !


I get the same problem, which seems a bit annoying to me. I like using slow sync at nite to capture the background objects but most of the time i end up with over exposed shots, even if i lower the flash intensity. I tried adjusting ISO, EP, and others but it doesn't help.

I hope this is one of the fixes Olympus is working on for their next firmware.


http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1041&thread=32403579&page=1
 

sigh.. i though i mentioned it performed the same in M mode and A mode..
still dont believe this ?
same discussion on Dpreview for Fl-14

I got the FL-14 yesterday and I am very disappointed. The metering is very inconsistent : it's either ok or way too bright?.
I'm used to Nikon's Flash, and i had never encounter such behaviour !

I get the same problem, which seems a bit annoying to me. I like using slow sync at nite to capture the background objects but most of the time i end up with over exposed shots, even if i lower the flash intensity. I tried adjusting ISO, EP, and others but it doesn't help.

I hope this is one of the fixes Olympus is working on for their next firmware.

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1041&thread=32403579&page=1

I face similar problem too. The FL14 simply sucks and exposure goes crazy sometimes. Or maybe it is because I don't know how to use it properly. :sweat: :embrass:
 

sigh.. i though i mentioned it performed the same in M mode and A mode..
still dont believe this ?
same discussion on Dpreview for Fl-14

I got the FL-14 yesterday and I am very disappointed. The metering is very inconsistent : it's either ok or way too bright?.
I'm used to Nikon's Flash, and i had never encounter such behaviour !


I get the same problem, which seems a bit annoying to me. I like using slow sync at nite to capture the background objects but most of the time i end up with over exposed shots, even if i lower the flash intensity. I tried adjusting ISO, EP, and others but it doesn't help.

I hope this is one of the fixes Olympus is working on for their next firmware.


http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1041&thread=32403579&page=1


i believe you. if you say the same thing happens in P mode and i assume with FEC +0, then i think is really problem with the FL-14 TTL. maybe sell off the FL14 and use your nikon flash instead. ;p
 

:D call me shallow.. i bought the FL-14 just for the look.
and I hardly use on-camera flash anyway.
cheers
 

:D call me shallow.. i bought the FL-14 just for the look.
and I hardly use on-camera flash anyway.
cheers

lol...can understand that desire. too bad it doesn't perform.
 

:D call me shallow.. i bought the FL-14 just for the look.
and I hardly use on-camera flash anyway.
cheers

Hahaha! Ok ... same here :embrass:. Now the FL14 is sleeping the black soft case after 1 test run.
 

but looking at his second set of shots with the bear, i would expect TTL to underexpose rather than overexpose since the background is light.

Than I'm not sure already,maybe he metered something dark?hard to tell since I have no idea how the FL14 works:D
 

I just love this new Hoya HD CPL, very little light loss. Who uses a CPL at night ? Well, it was useful to get the glare out of this window.
The shoe cobbler painting looks real nice ...

sos-091102-1.jpg

E-P1 + Lumix 20mm f/1.7, 1/25, f/1.7, spot, ISO 800

.
 

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Bokeh ... some snapshots from E-P1 with Olympus ZD 50mm f/2 Macro (with MMF-1 adapter), all ISO 200 ...

f/2, 1/250, spot
flora-091104-1.jpg


f/2, 1/200, spot
fauna-091104-1.jpg


f/2.5, 1/800, spot
flora-091104-2.jpg



.
 

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I just love this new Hoya HD CPL, very little light loss. Who uses a CPL at night ? Well, it was useful to get the glare out of this window.
The shoe cobbler painting looks real nice ...

sos-091102-1.jpg

E-P1 + Lumix 20mm f/1.7, 1/25, f/1.7, spot, ISO 800

.

:thumbsup: Lovely!
 

mf2 adaptor?
 

Thanks for pointing out, corrected to MMF-1 adapter
 

Some IR from the E-P1, using Lumix 20mm f/1.7 lens, and Hoya R72 infrared filter. The E-P1 can still "see" through this dark filter in bright light, and AF too (except in dark shadow areas).

10 seconds, f/4, ASA 400, spot
ir-090727-3.jpg

.

How did you take Black and White without using the (POP ART) B&W Grainy?
 

Oh, this is originally in color, as I always shoot in RAW. Then convert to B&W if desired ...

If you only shoot in jpeg, then you have to set the camera first to B&W. Change the setting under Picture Mode to Monotone, and select B&W filter.

Or use the Art filter. I never use them, this is only for jpeg shooters.


.
 

Few random ones at the park yesterday with the E-P1 and Lumix 20mm.

fitzand-08-nov-09-01.jpg


fitzand-08-nov-09-02.jpg


fitzand-08-nov-09-03.jpg


fitzand-08-nov-09-04.jpg
 

<Noob Warning>

Just some shots from Lesson #2 with Phocus on Sunday.
Shot using EP1 with the 14-42mm lens.

"Children Jumping into Singapore River"
#1:
4085372775_ea4a958ec6.jpg


#2:
4085373311_88e1f0fea9.jpg


#3: (School suggested composition)
4085373501_f29a56509c.jpg


#4:
4085372367_086a9314eb.jpg


#5:
4086130876_1974787052.jpg


...
 

...

"Sir Stamford Raffles (White)"
#6:
4085373843_44582fbbca.jpg


#7: (Did PP to brighten)
4086132040_35943f8e0d.jpg


#8:
4086132126_f6e086fb3c.jpg


#9: (with Grainy B&W art filter)
4085374433_595dc8bd33.jpg


...
 

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