Fujifilm F200EXR is a GEM


For this picture, the discoloration is not obvious. For analysis purpose, I have up the blue and red gamma to reveal the areas. Blue noise covers most area while red has none.
The good news is the blues are fine spread out instead of patches, which is why not so visible.

DSCF0624-blue.jpg


DSCF0624-red.jpg


Hi guys, can you comment whether the unsightly blotches for the below-attached picture (produced by F31fd at ISO400) is as unsightly as andikong's pictures? I also used Photobucket to resize my photos. Thanks.
 

I did a Google search and could not find your portfolio. Can you please direct me? Thanks!

(By the way, most professional photographers are not rich, they are just passionate - being able to buy a car with your photos does not prove that your photos are better.)

As what I meant a Professional photographer don't need a DSLR to make a good living, a simple tool of a PnS camera can also make it big and to live a comfortable life. And I have proof it to myself since the start of the PnS camera era. For you information I don't even use strobe lights to do all my work, 2 simple 100w light bulbs is enough for all my works. ( I own 3 units of Bowen, now left it as antiques).

And buying expensive DSLR camera can also never make you a good photographer, it only helps you to improve your work. Some just for show only (Sorry for being offensive). As I have said earlier in this forum, its the person behind the camera and not the equipment you used.

Don't bother to do the google search, for I don't like to show off my work on the web, only to valuable clients, customers and friends only.

And when I post my pic in this forum it is just to air my view and opinion on certain issue and technical point, not to prove anything. I am a advertising man and I don't favour any brand of camera, and I make sure the camera caters for all my professional needs, thats all.

Now I am perfectly happy to continue my professional photography with this superb $470 PnS camera and no way I will buy a DSLR, for I don't need it.
No further replies will be entertained and my opnion is final. Happy snapping all photographer.:angel::):D
 

One more shot for your viewing pleasure.
IMO, F200EXR is capable rendering buttery smooth images that is candy to the eye and at the same time able to preserve lots of detail, both in highlight and shadow areas ;)
DSCF2311.JPG
 

One more shot for your viewing pleasure.
IMO, F200EXR is capable rendering buttery smooth images that is candy to the eye and at the same time able to preserve lots of detail, both in highlight and shadow areas ;)
DSCF2311.JPG

Thanks for sharing, but I think this camera should not have any problem taking good pictures in bright daylight. The main concern is whether it performs as well as or even better than the F31fd and F30 that it replaced. Expectation is that the F200EXR should perform much better, since it is using the latest technology. Try to take some shots under incandescent light or low light and let's see the results. I like Fujifilm products, but when I see something amiss with any of their products, I will voice out without hesitation, as this is the forum for discussion of Fujifilm products.
 

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As my shots (ice cream vendor) was a candid one taken manual at a split of a few sec. No time for white balance and other adjustment

Your overall bedroom pic is not even sharp in focus at full aperture F2.8. No fine details of the bedroom and small items.

andi, your icecream shot really looks smudgy compared to thechef's bedroom shot. granted you shot the photo at higher iso than he did and the noise reduction algorithm problem contributed to the smudge but his bedroom looks fine to me.
 

I was curious too and had me wondering. It seems to me that the photo has some pixels shifting being done, while moving subjects become more defined but too many pixel shift resulted in the artefacts in stationary ones. At 1/4 sec how can the face and hands still be so clear?

andi, your icecream shot really looks smudgy compared to thechef's bedroom shot. granted you shot the photo at higher iso than he did and the noise reduction algorithm problem contributed to the smudge but his bedroom looks fine to me.
 

I was curious too and had me wondering. It seems to me that the photo has some pixels shifting being done, while moving subjects become more defined but too many pixel shift resulted in the artefacts in stationary ones. At 1/4 sec how can the face and hands still be so clear?

possible if the subjects were relatively still. anyway the exif does say 1/4s.

the artifacts look as though they were caused by the camera's noise reduction algorithm.
 

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Hi all, I can only achieve the above but was trying to create the focus seen in the first photo of this link: http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488899&page=11
Focus on 1 figurine and the other figurines are out of focus.

For some camera brands, ithave touchscreen functions which can create this easily. Or have area focus or pre-setting focus area function to create this.

How can I do this with f200exr? Thanks for all advice.
 

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Hi all, I can only achieve the above but was trying to create the focus seen in the first photo of this link: http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488899&page=11
Focus on 1 figurine and the other figurines are out of focus.

For some camera brands, ithave touchscreen functions which can create this easily. Or have area focus or pre-setting focus area function to create this.

How can I do this with f200exr? Thanks for all advice.

Have you tried macro mode?
 

Have you tried macro mode?

Hi Chef. I tried macro but it doesn't work. As per the menu, if macro is on, the camera will only focus on the subject in the center of the monitor. I tried macro on and did pre-focus but still it didn't work.

I believe it is my own photography skill problem. Hopefully someone can enlighten me. Thanks thanks. ^^.
 

Hi Chef. I tried macro but it doesn't work. As per the menu, if macro is on, the camera will only focus on the subject in the center of the monitor. I tried macro on and did pre-focus but still it didn't work.

I believe it is my own photography skill problem. Hopefully someone can enlighten me. Thanks thanks. ^^.

Read the manual. You will find that you can become an expert in handling this camera too.
 

You can use continuous focus to lock on a subject and reposition your camera to test the blur effects. SP and low iso may help to open up the aperture to further reduce DOF.

LX3 has an advantage of track focusing without having to keep pressing shutter button.

Hi Chef. I tried macro but it doesn't work. As per the menu, if macro is on, the camera will only focus on the subject in the center of the monitor. I tried macro on and did pre-focus but still it didn't work.

I believe it is my own photography skill problem. Hopefully someone can enlighten me. Thanks thanks. ^^.
 

Hi all, I can only achieve the above but was trying to create the focus seen in the first photo of this link: http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488899&page=11
Focus on 1 figurine and the other figurines are out of focus.

For some camera brands, ithave touchscreen functions which can create this easily. Or have area focus or pre-setting focus area function to create this.

How can I do this with f200exr? Thanks for all advice.

Hi, i suppose you are not too sure on how to use the focus-lock function when your main subject is not placed at the center.
This URL shows you an animation on how to do that (scroll down).
http://web.canon.jp/imaging/enjoydslr/part2/2Fa.html
Hope it helps.
 

I tried focus-lock previously but can't replicate the blur/out of focus effect. I will try again today. I tried continuous focus also. Nonetheless, I will try again tonight. ^^.
 

I tried focus-lock previously but can't replicate the blur/out of focus effect. I will try again today. I tried continuous focus also. Nonetheless, I will try again tonight. ^^.

To maximize the background blurr effect, move as close as possible to your subject, and push/place your background as far as possible. It's a pity that F200 starts with F3.3, which reduces the blurr effect.

By the way, you might have already known this - to do macro with pns, you should not use any zoom when taking the picture.
 

You talking about this? F2.0 Panny LX3 (I don have F200EXR), focus lock on front Duracell battery, macro (no zoom).

I tried focus-lock previously but can't replicate the blur/out of focus effect. I will try again today. I tried continuous focus also. Nonetheless, I will try again tonight. ^^.

P1010132_1.jpg
 

what is the best price for a package of F200exr in the market now? MScolor ? Cathay?

What is inside the package?

Would owner help to provide such pre-buying info.

thanks
 

You talking about this? F2.0 Panny LX3 (I don have F200EXR), focus lock on front Duracell battery, macro (no zoom).



P1010132_1.jpg

Yup. Previously, as per any photo-taking, I focus lock on one figurine (in your case, duracell battery) and then shift back to centre of frame. The issue I have is both figurines (in your case, both the nimh2700 and duracell) ended up having same focus level/sharpness. On your photo, I can see the other battery (nimh2700) is blur.

p.s. I didn't try yesterday. Will find some time to do so. Work is hectic.
 

what is the best price for a package of F200exr in the market now? MScolor ? Cathay?

What is inside the package?

Would owner help to provide such pre-buying info.

thanks

last week I ask to John and they reply as 470 + standard pkg
 

The further you move the sharper the back becomes, stick to the frame distance. Try to use macro and low iso with biggest aperture. Your figurines should be further apart due to their size then the batteries.

By focusing on bottom of the Duracell, I achieve more blur than the level focus. Alternatively, place the smaller figures in front and larger one behind but further away. At level they will look about the same height and distance.

If all fails, just buy some cheap software like arcsoft impression 6.5 gold to blur them off professionally. Skip the trouble.

Yup. Previously, as per any photo-taking, I focus lock on one figurine (in your case, duracell battery) and then shift back to centre of frame. The issue I have is both figurines (in your case, both the nimh2700 and duracell) ended up having same focus level/sharpness. On your photo, I can see the other battery (nimh2700) is blur.

p.s. I didn't try yesterday. Will find some time to do so. Work is hectic.
 

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