Fuji S602Z has arrived...


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Originally posted by azone

Sure sure! Thanks in advance! :)

One more question. When you have the lens adapter on, you need to set 'adapter' in the cam menu, so the cam will disable the IR focusing. Have you tried if there is any focusing speed difference with and w/o the adapter?

there's no need to disable IR focussing if you only have the lens adaptor on.

you only need to disable it when you attach something big in front (e.g. wide-angle converter, teleconverter) that would block the IR sensor.
 

Originally posted by DanielG
A newbie question, when using a 55mm->52mm step down adapter ring, does the image get cropped due to the smaller len size?

What's the rational for using the step down ring with a 52mm filter instead of a 55mm filter?

Or is there no 55mm filter in the market?;p

Image doesn't get cropped because the actual lens (hole ;p) is smaller in diameter than 52mm. I think it's closer to 43mm.

I got the step-down ring only because I want to reuse existing 52mm filters/teleconverters ;p save money lah ;p
 

Originally posted by chronox


U can get unlimited movie from microdrive as well, tried it on my mine;)

faster CF in the future might be able to, or at least get a longer clip ;p
 

Originally posted by mpenza


Image doesn't get cropped because the actual lens (hole ;p) is smaller in diameter than 52mm. I think it's closer to 43mm.

I got the step-down ring only because I want to reuse existing 52mm filters/teleconverters ;p save money lah ;p

Thanks for the clarification. So I suppose I can go ahead and get the 55mm filters.

Can someone recommend a affordable external flash to use with this camera?
 

Originally posted by DanielG


Thanks for the clarification. So I suppose I can go ahead and get the 55mm filters.

Can someone recommend a affordable external flash to use with this camera?

any budget constraints? I'm using the Metz 32-Z1 which can bounce, swivel and is relatively powerful (GN of 32). It'll cost abt $170. There're stronger flash around like the Vivitar 285HV which costs less (~$140) but it can't swivel.
 

Originally posted by mpenza


any budget constraints? I'm using the Metz 32-Z1 which can bounce, swivel and is relatively powerful (GN of 32). It'll cost abt $170. There're stronger flash around like the Vivitar 285HV which costs less (~$140) but it can't swivel.

I guess anything below $200 is alright.

I'm not sure how external flash works order than act as a slave unit. Can you please try to explain who does the digicam trigger the Metz 32-Z1? Does it depend on the built-in flash to trigger it? Do I have to change the settings on the flash unit for different shuttle speed and aperture size? Or does it have some sensor in the hot shoe to detect the settings of the digicam etc?

BTW, what is GN of 32? How far is this flash effective?
 

Originally posted by DanielG


I guess anything below $200 is alright.

I'm not sure how external flash works order than act as a slave unit. Can you please try to explain who does the digicam trigger the Metz 32-Z1? Does it depend on the built-in flash to trigger it? Do I have to change the settings on the flash unit for different shuttle speed and aperture size? Or does it have some sensor in the hot shoe to detect the settings of the digicam etc?

BTW, what is GN of 32? How far is this flash effective?

The digicam triggers the flash through the hotshoe when the external flash mode is enabled (just like in a normal SLF camera). It does not depend on the internat flash. In fact, the internal flash is disabled when you enable the external one.

You have to get a flash that allows you to set the aperture. There's no communication between the flash and the camera other than the trigger. So, you have to set the correct aperture setting for the camera and flash to get the right exposure. It's fairly easy actually.

GN = distance x aperture. The 32 I listed is in meters (some use feet) and for ISO 100. e.g. for ISO 100 and aperture of F2.8, the max effective distance of the flash = 32/2.8 = 11.4m.

Since the S602Z uses higher ISO, the effective range will be further. I think for every doubling of the ISO, the effective range increase by 1.4 time.
 

Originally posted by mpenza


The digicam triggers the flash through the hotshoe when the external flash mode is enabled (just like in a normal SLF camera). It does not depend on the internat flash. In fact, the internal flash is disabled when you enable the external one.

You have to get a flash that allows you to set the aperture. There's no communication between the flash and the camera other than the trigger. So, you have to set the correct aperture setting for the camera and flash to get the right exposure. It's fairly easy actually.

GN = distance x aperture. The 32 I listed is in meters (some use feet) and for ISO 100. e.g. for ISO 100 and aperture of F2.8, the max effective distance of the flash = 32/2.8 = 11.4m.

Since the S602Z uses higher ISO, the effective range will be further. I think for every doubling of the ISO, the effective range increase by 1.4 time.

Thanks for the explaination, mpenza. At least now I understand how the hotshoe works. Know where to find the ratings of the GN scale for different ISO?
 

Originally posted by chronox
U can get unlimited movie from microdrive as well, tried it on my mine;)

i can see the results stats on Dpreview, but hands on has anyone tried with Microdrive ? how does it feel ? if i'm looking for big memory should i get a 256 CF, 256 SM or 340 micro ? or 1gb micro ?

how much is each ? i read SM faster but more ex right ? Micros are much slower as shown on the site, but in real life, is it tediously slow ?
 

Originally posted by DanielG


Thanks for the explaination, mpenza. At least now I understand how the hotshoe works. Know where to find the ratings of the GN scale for different ISO?

it's on the flash itself :) Fotoguide (beside Cathay) quoted me $170 for the Metz 32 Z-1. Cathay Photo's a bit higher.
 

Originally posted by shawntim

how much is each ? i read SM faster but more ex right ? Micros are much slower as shown on the site, but in real life, is it tediously slow ?

SM is not more ex. It's just more limited in capacity. Currently, the largest SM is 128MB.
 

just received an equote from Cathay Photo:

1) Fujifilm S602Z @S$1,270.00
2) Fujifilm wide-angle converter kit @ S$210.00

at least I got it cheaper at MS Color ;p
 

When attaching the wide-angle/telephoto conversion lens, is it possible to attached a UV filter? If so, which comes first? The 55mm filter then the conversion lens (1)? Or the conversion lens then a bigger UV filter (2)? Any difference?

(1) S602->UV->conversion lens
(2) S602->conversion lens->UV

I read on Hoya website that they recommend a PL-CIR filter unless using a manual focus camera which has no beam splitter. I figure a digicam uses CCD, so don't have prism beam splitor right? So I should get a linear polarizing filter right? Any problems with using a circular polarizing filter?

Also, is it possbile to attached multiple filters together (eg UV + polariser?
 

Originally posted by DanielG
When attaching the wide-angle/telephoto conversion lens, is it possible to attached a UV filter? If so, which comes first? The 55mm filter then the conversion lens (1)? Or the conversion lens then a bigger UV filter (2)? Any difference?

(1) S602->UV->conversion lens
(2) S602->conversion lens->UV

due to the design of the Fujifilm wide-angle converter, you can't put on the UV filter. I'll show you later tonight with a pic. I guess they designed it this way purposely to make it incompatible with other cameras. I thought of a way to get around it but it would require some 55-55mm rings. There's also no thread in front of the wide-angle converter.

I'm not sure about the teleconverter but probably will be the same.

3rd party converters shouldn't have the same issue.

Originally posted by DanielG

I read on Hoya website that they recommend a PL-CIR filter unless using a manual focus camera which has no beam splitter. I figure a digicam uses CCD, so don't have prism beam splitor right? So I should get a linear polarizing filter right? Any problems with using a circular polarizing filter?

Also, is it possbile to attached multiple filters together (eg UV + polariser?

I was told that linear polarisers would interfere with autofocus (not sure how much it applies for digicams), so I got a circular polariser and used it without problems.

You could attach CP to UV :)
 

Originally posted by mpenza


due to the design of the Fujifilm wide-angle converter, you can't put on the UV filter. I'll show you later tonight with a pic. I guess they designed it this way purposely to make it incompatible with other cameras. I thought of a way to get around it but it would require some 55-55mm rings. There's also no thread in front of the wide-angle converter.

I'm not sure about the teleconverter but probably will be the same.

3rd party converters shouldn't have the same issue.

So is it still possible to attached the UV filter to the digicam 1st then the wide-angle conversion lens on top of that? Any concerns for this setup? Or will it defects the purpose of the filter?
 

Originally posted by DanielG


So is it still possible to attached the UV filter to the digicam 1st then the wide-angle conversion lens on top of that? Any concerns for this setup? Or will it defects the purpose of the filter?

without additional rings, it can't be done cos the wide-angle conversion lens has a part that protrudes back. it'll break the UV filter if you screwed it in.
 

The noise level is good ... but the pics seem a bit soft to me? :dunno:
 

Originally posted by HOCL
The noise level is good ... but the pics seem a bit soft to me? :dunno:

should be soft ;p cos I use soft setting for sharpness.
 

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