Exposure indoors


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lomographix

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Feb 6, 2006
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Hi anybody encounter this problem of inaccurate exposure shooting indoors? I am using the 580ex and sometimes it over exposeses and then when I reduce the flash power by 1 stop it really underexposes the pix.
 

lomographix said:
Hi anybody encounter this problem of inaccurate exposure shooting indoors? I am using the 580ex and sometimes it over exposeses and then when I reduce the flash power by 1 stop it really underexposes the pix.

i'm no pro, but i think you have to be aware of the shooting distances vs aperture when u shoot with a flash. e.g. using F4 to shoot a subject 0.3m away will definitely overexpose.
 

darrelchia said:
i'm no pro, but i think you have to be aware of the shooting distances vs aperture when u shoot with a flash. e.g. using F4 to shoot a subject 0.3m away will definitely overexpose.

Thanks for your reply, but isnt ETTL supposed to cut off the light when its suffcient?

And if you are not boucing the flash shouldnt it calculate the amount of light required by the distance information sent to it from the lens?

Yet I get inconsitant exposure either bouncing or using direct flash.
 

lomographix said:
Thanks for your reply, but isnt ETTL supposed to cut off the light when its suffcient?

And if you are not boucing the flash shouldnt it calculate the amount of light required by the distance information sent to it from the lens?

Yet I get inconsitant exposure either bouncing or using direct flash.

technically speaking, its supposed to. But my limited experience with working with external flash, this is what i realised. Try this. When shooting very close to ur subject (around 1-1.5 meters), use F8. Of course, I could be wrong, but just sharing my experience.
 

Personally, my 580ex will tend to be underexposed even with the ETTL2. The exposure accuracy is fine if the subject is predominately black but will be under by 2/3 when the subject is predominately white. This is esp true for me when i use it indoors. Hope this is useful ;)
 

Ok since you're new here lomo I'll help u out. If you REALLY want help for these sorta thing (like VJ Jois's thread if you look around) you have to post up a picture and tell us what settings you're using.

BTW NPNT=No pic no talk.
 

Just wanting to find out if people find the exposure indoor is inconsitent.. Perhaps its due to the metering, the cam gets smoked when you have lots of black suits so the cam thinks is so dark and blow up all the faces anyway this is quite interesting

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46599
 

lomographix said:
Just wanting to find out if people find the exposure indoor is inconsitent.. Perhaps its due to the metering, the cam gets smoked when you have lots of black suits so the cam thinks is so dark and blow up all the faces anyway this is quite interesting

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46599

Just set to -2EV and spot meter on the blacks.
 

purplephoenix said:
The exposure accuracy is fine if the subject is predominately black but will be under by 2/3 when the subject is predominately white.

I have the same experience with 430EX.

But then, I experience the same behaviour is also observed when shooting without flash. I.e. correct exposure with black ; need +1EV with white. So my own conclusion is 350D's metering is skewed while its control of the flash & flash consistency is ok.
 

catchlights said:
which one more important? faces or black suits??

In general, I was under the impression that the faces turn out fine when doing this. It works for me though.
 

Use FEL with focus pt over what u want correctly exposed, then recompose and focus then take the shot. inaccurate exposure comes when u do the normal focus recompose then take the shot.

Theory is that the e-ttl is heavily biased towards the current focus pt. EG u're taking a pic of a face against a wall.If your focus pt is not over the face but over the wall when u recompose, the e-ttl will adjust the flash output to correctly expose the wall and not the face. if the wall is black u'll get overexposed pic. if wall is white, u'll get underexposed pic.
 

If you feel that ETTL isn't working for you, turn the feature off via custom functions.
Some people do that and feel that it gives more consistent results.
 

Stoned said:
Just set to -2EV and spot meter on the blacks.

This is a strange technique, would distance from subject make any difference? Oh well no harm trying to reduce post processing work... Thanks for various input guys..
 

shadowmoses said:
Use FEL with focus pt over what u want correctly exposed, then recompose and focus then take the shot. inaccurate exposure comes when u do the normal focus recompose then take the shot.

Theory is that the e-ttl is heavily biased towards the current focus pt. EG u're taking a pic of a face against a wall.If your focus pt is not over the face but over the wall when u recompose, the e-ttl will adjust the flash output to correctly expose the wall and not the face. if the wall is black u'll get overexposed pic. if wall is white, u'll get underexposed pic.

More or less been doing this or swithching the flash to M mode and shoot around 1/4, but wondering there some super bintua mode since we are spending a bomb on our gears..
 

lomographix said:
This is a strange technique, would distance from subject make any difference? Oh well no harm trying to reduce post processing work... Thanks for various input guys..

It's actually quite commonly used I think. Wedding photographers do the reverse very commonly for exposing whites. +1 or 2EV. If you're using flash, yes it makes a difference if you are 2m from the subject as opposed to 20m. If not, no.
 

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