samieme
New Member
Thanks lioneldude! = )
Exploring G12...
- Thread starter samieme
- Start date
Thanks lioneldude! = )
tikiman
Senior Member
For the G12, u will need to goto Camera Menu -> Folder 1 -> AF Frame
there u can choose:
1. FlexiZone - which means u can move the focusing box to do selective focusing
2. Face AiAF - Keep a face in focus
3. Tracking AF - keep what u choose in the box focus after u 1/2 press the shutter button, work on subjects that are not human faces.
hope this helps.
samieme
New Member
hey tecnica, thanks for the advice!
see my attempt... .. .
My new attempt of Joo Chiat night shot
ISO100 - 13s - f8
My previous attempt as posted earlier
M mode: ISO2500 - 0.5s - f4.5
Hey guys, is it better?
samieme
New Member
raydio
Senior Member
This is indeed an improvement... no more noise.
If you would like to continue experimenting, try taking a photo after the sun sets. There is a special time when the sky takes on a royal blue colour (not seen by the eye but recorded by the sensor). It is the best time to take a night photo. You may have to experiment with the precise time as atmospheric conditions may affect the best or optimal time to shoot. I would advise to set your camera up on a tripod and spend 30 minutes taking a photo about 5 minutes apart. When you catch the sky at its optimum, the results are outstanding.
samieme
New Member
lioneldude
Senior Member
Why not u observe before and after the sunsets on a blue sky day?
raydio
Senior Member
Best time would be after the sun sets but you can begin before if you would like. The optimum time however is after the sun sets and usually up to 30 to 45 minutes after it has set.
Although the following photo is not the greatest example it does show the "royal blue" sky that is achievable during the "blue hour". To the human eye it actually looks like a black sky but the camera is still able to pick up faint rays of light. This photo was taken in August during the closing ceremonies of the Youth Olympic Games. From the EXIF information, I can see that it was taken at 7:35 pm. However, this will vary depending on the time of year and atmospheric conditions.
samieme
New Member
Best time would be after the sun sets but you can begin before if you would like. The optimum time however is after the sun sets and usually up to 30 to 45 minutes after it has set.
Although the following photo is not the greatest example it does show the "royal blue" sky that is achievable during the "blue hour". To the human eye it actually looks like a black sky but the camera is still able to pick up faint rays of light. This photo was taken in August during the closing ceremonies of the Youth Olympic Games. From the EXIF information, I can see that it was taken at 7:35 pm. However, this will vary depending on the time of year and atmospheric conditions.
wow! nice! i'll try to take some shots and post it here...
on top of this, I'd recommend allocating AI Servo for the shortcut button, so that u can have access to it, jus by pressing the shortcut button.
not bad! maybe you can expose your pic for a longer period, so that the pic can be brighter?
anyway, the twilight hour aka blue hour is roughly between 7pm - 8pm. i share some pics with you:
7.47pm
8pm
try shooting during blue hour, the colours are really very nice~
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the free gift is same as canon, 8GB + case.
Most of the shop i ask is around $730 - $760.
And the 'MillionDollar Question' .... Which shop in SLS ? In most people's experience, there are only 2 worth a second look, the rest have more often than not questionable modus operandi ... :nono:
heheh
very soon,Samie, my bro-in-law, u will be investing in DSLR...
anyway here are some tips for u..
Higher ISO [ more sensitive to light, allow for bigger apertures (smaller F numbers) and shorter(faster) shutter speeds to achieve the correct exposure ]
However, as ISO goes higher, your picture will turn out less sharper.
Higher F numbers (aka smaller apertures) will result in sharper pictures but will require shutter speeds to be longer to achieve the correct exposure.
Faster shutter speeds will prevent handshake blur and reduce subject motion blur but will require an decreasing F number [ larger apertures ] in order to achieve the correct exposure.
On the other hand, slower shutter speeds is sometimes preferred to capture the motion blur intentionally [ ie moving headlights on road at night ]
this formula served me well
perfect exposure = (F number)/(Shutter speed)
ie Shutter speeds are inversely proportional to the aperture.
And if the metering system of the camera still shows that the pic is under or over-exposed when u have reached the limits of both the apertures and shutter speeds of the camera and still unable to achieve the correct exposure...
It's time to up the ISO.
My advice.
indoors during the day : ISO400
indoors at night with fluorescent lighting : ISO800 (ISO400 if using external flash)
outdoors during sunny day : ISO100
outdoors during overcast day : ISO200
outdoors during night : ISO800 and above depending on intended exposure time(shutter speed) and flash or non flash
For long night exposure outdoors, can try ISO100 for landscape with long exposures.
so when are we going to go shoot on late nights?
very soon,Samie, my bro-in-law, u will be investing in DSLR...
anyway here are some tips for u..
Higher ISO [ more sensitive to light, allow for bigger apertures (smaller F numbers) and shorter(faster) shutter speeds to achieve the correct exposure ]
However, as ISO goes higher, your picture will turn out less sharper.
Higher F numbers (aka smaller apertures) will result in sharper pictures but will require shutter speeds to be longer to achieve the correct exposure.
Faster shutter speeds will prevent handshake blur and reduce subject motion blur but will require an decreasing F number [ larger apertures ] in order to achieve the correct exposure.
On the other hand, slower shutter speeds is sometimes preferred to capture the motion blur intentionally [ ie moving headlights on road at night ]
this formula served me well
perfect exposure = (F number)/(Shutter speed)
ie Shutter speeds are inversely proportional to the aperture.
And if the metering system of the camera still shows that the pic is under or over-exposed when u have reached the limits of both the apertures and shutter speeds of the camera and still unable to achieve the correct exposure...
It's time to up the ISO.
My advice.
indoors during the day : ISO400
indoors at night with fluorescent lighting : ISO800 (ISO400 if using external flash)
outdoors during sunny day : ISO100
outdoors during overcast day : ISO200
outdoors during night : ISO800 and above depending on intended exposure time(shutter speed) and flash or non flash
For long night exposure outdoors, can try ISO100 for landscape with long exposures.
so when are we going to go shoot on late nights?
if I may quote.
taking a photograph is like filling a bucket of water..[ aka achieving correct exposure ]
How long you wanna open the tap for [ shutter speed ]
and
What is the diameter of the water pipe outlet [ aperture ]
The 2 critical factors and have different values and will eventually fill up the bucket..
The only question left is how fast you wanna fill it up.
taking a photograph is like filling a bucket of water..[ aka achieving correct exposure ]
How long you wanna open the tap for [ shutter speed ]
and
What is the diameter of the water pipe outlet [ aperture ]
The 2 critical factors and have different values and will eventually fill up the bucket..
The only question left is how fast you wanna fill it up.
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