had not tried concert, but took it for the slingers match. No bad as was shifting btw 70-200 and 55-250 and the light for the match is bright enough at indoor stadium. Use it to take the Aoshen match at Toa Payoh Stadium, it is abit too slow to freeze the action. So it may not be fast enough to capture concert when lets say the singer is dancing.
EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS has arrived
- Thread starter vincentong
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had not tried concert, but took it for the slingers match. No bad as was shifting btw 70-200 and 55-250 and the light for the match is bright enough at indoor stadium. Use it to take the Aoshen match at Toa Payoh Stadium, it is abit too slow to freeze the action. So it may not be fast enough to capture concert when lets say the singer is dancing.
have gone thru my photos taken....agree with keyuan...lotsa blurry movements but thats because the lighting at the performing centre can be better...even have to shoot at 1/13 so you can imagine the end results...out of 400shots..about 60 usable only...
ditikolon
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This lens was clearly made for different usage.... It moves into f/5 at 135mm, and f/5.6 at 200mm.
I'd have 135mm f/2L or 70-200 f/2.8L for a concert with such dim lighting conditions...This lens has IS, but can it stop motion? A shutter speed of 1/13 is far from stopping motion... more like for taking waterfalls.
I'd have 135mm f/2L or 70-200 f/2.8L for a concert with such dim lighting conditions...This lens has IS, but can it stop motion? A shutter speed of 1/13 is far from stopping motion... more like for taking waterfalls.
jamestan_33
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ditikolon
Member
IS is for tackling the handshake issue, not for freezing actions.
Ya, exactly the point I'm driving at. We must be aware of the limitations of this lens!
I know...just that for some of the performers...lighting was too horrid....need to capture more light...so HAD to set shutter at 1/13....to me some blurry hand movements are better than no picture at all....
ditikolon
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If that is acceptable to you, then by all means!
You weren't allowed to use your Speedlite at the concert ah.If that is acceptable to you, then by all means!
ya lor....goodthing I am not main shooter...main shooter kenna based far away and he says his 70-200 too short somemore....
due to the positioning...my shots are all of the performing artistes' side views....did have one or 2 gems....hopefully selected for publication morrow....will post them on my flickr after morrow...
Agree! :thumbsup:
Not to mention some are plain sore u got an L and they don't.. then when they have it eventually, they'll make up different story.. Well, I just ignore them and continue shooting.. no time for such nonsense ;p
nope... used the basic setting Large/Fine. may i know what would be better in terms of sharpness.
i made mistakes in shutter speed, iso and forgetting to adjust exp comp. yesterday.. ;p
ditikolon
Member
To me focusing is NOT that slow. But I don't really require USM-fast focusing anyway. Motor noise is more of an issue for me, but this lens has a quiet and relatively fast motor.
But anywayy, I think when shooting sports in good light (like daytime soccer/frisbee), a safe bet would be 70-200 f/4L USM if you find yourself being serious about shooting good images from sports. The ability to attach a teleconverter is quite useful. Plus this lens is sharp wide open, and focuses quick and fast. If you're on a budget, this lens should be fine enough la. Not the best, but make the most out of your situation!
Actually sharpness generally depends on the quality of the lens (and sometimes other factors like handshake, etc.). But there are some parameters that you can adjust in-camera... for best image quality I shoot in RAW where I can get a 12-bit ouput file and tweak the parameters on the computer with more brightness levels. You can use anti-sharp mask in Photoshop or the sharpness control in the camera or in DPP that can help a little.
Did you use a tripod? I find that I CMI without tripod de =x
Your photos look abit blurry.. You used shutter priority?
# Exposure Time (1 / Shutter Speed) = 1/40 second = 0.025 second
# Lens F-Number/F-Stop = 14/1 = F14
Maybe try aperture priority, F5.6? Usually telephoto is for bokeh animals right?
Usually very small apertures (F11 onwards) will give rise to soft pics due to diffraction... For this lens stick to the 4-5.6 range can liao, with IS, can get awesome results... Although pics will not be as contrasty and colorful as 70-200, but this can be overcome using PS.
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