EF-S 10-22mm f3.5-4.5 USM, AT-X 11-16mm f2.8 or AT-X 12-24mm f4 Pro DX?

EF-S 10-22mm f3.5-4.5 USM, AT-X 11-16mm f2.8 or AT-X 12-24mm f4 Pro DX?


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I'm also in a dilemma between choosing the EF-S 10-22mm and the Tokina AT-X 11-16mm f2.8. Since there are quite a number of comment stating that for landscape, we don't need F2.8. How about for indoor group shot? I have seen event where the photographer use the EF 16-35L/ F2.8 lens through out the event. As such, does it mean it's better to get the Tokina AT-X 11-16mm f2.8 if we gonna use it for indoor shoot?
 

I'm also in a dilemma between choosing the EF-S 10-22mm and the Tokina AT-X 11-16mm f2.8. Since there are quite a number of comment stating that for landscape, we don't need F2.8. How about for indoor group shot? I have seen event where the photographer use the EF 16-35L/ F2.8 lens through out the event. As such, does it mean it's better to get the Tokina AT-X 11-16mm f2.8 if we gonna use it for indoor shoot?

For group shots, you'd still stop down as f/2.8 runs the risk of having too shallow DOF to render the whole group in-focus.
 

For group shots, you'd still stop down as f/2.8 runs the risk of having too shallow DOF to render the whole group in-focus.

I felt this comment logic, but one thing in my mind (correct me if I'm wrong), just a theoretical thought:
Usually, most lens (not all) not sharp at aperture wide open, so
Tokina f2.8 (14mm) - down to f4.0 probably sharp?
Canon f4.0 (at 14 mm) - down to f5.6 probably sharp?

so tokina still have a wider aperture that will deliver almost equal sharp?
Is this wider aperture important / good to have? (As someone already mentioned shallow DOF not for landscape)

I do not own or tried either lens, just base on my idea...
 

I felt this comment logic, but one thing in my mind (correct me if I'm wrong), just a theoretical thought:
Usually, most lens (not all) not sharp at aperture wide open, so
Tokina f2.8 (14mm) - down to f4.0 probably sharp?
Canon f4.0 (at 14 mm) - down to f5.6 probably sharp?

so tokina still have a wider aperture that will deliver almost equal sharp?
Is this wider aperture important / good to have? (As someone already mentioned shallow DOF not for landscape)

I do not own or tried either lens, just base on my idea...

Your logic for stopping down for group shots is flawed. The point is not stopping down to get optimum sharpness.

The point is stopping down so you get enough depth of field.
 

Your logic for stopping down for group shots is flawed. The point is not stopping down to get optimum sharpness.

The point is stopping down so you get enough depth of field.

ok understood about this enough DOF (so everyone in the photo get a clear face),

But iirc, some website actually said that stepping down can get better sharpness?....:confused:
 

But iirc, some website actually said that stepping down can get better sharpness?....:confused:

Most lenses are at their sharpest when stopped down one stop from maximum aperture. Many lenses are at their finest at f/8 - f/11. At smaller apertures you start to get diffraction effect.

Having the lens at its sharpest does not matter if your subject is not all in focus. However, the ultrawides have a huge DOF.
 

ok understood about this enough DOF (so everyone in the photo get a clear face),

But iirc, some website actually said that stepping down can get better sharpness?....:confused:

Its true that some lenses will perform better stopped down but just don't confuse depth of field with sharpness.
 

Most lenses are at their sharpest when stopped down one stop from maximum aperture. Many lenses are at their finest at f/8 - f/11. At smaller apertures you start to get diffraction effect.

Having the lens at its sharpest does not matter if your subject is not all in focus. However, the ultrawides have a huge DOF.

its a dilemma chiising between the 2. frankly i go with tokina for f2.8, you never when you need it. maybe you be taking just your girlfriend on the bed. then there is a need to be focusing on a specific area but keeping all else in the picture too.

correct me if wrong, its quite right to say indoor group shots mainly f/8 - f/11 to get all clear faces. so then you throw high iso which degrades the quality or light the flash which in that case doesn't matter which lens you buy.
 

Using a DOF app with the values, F2.8, 14 mm, focus distance of 4 m comes up with:

Hyperfocal Distance 2.32 m
Near limit: 1.47
Far limit: Unlimited
Total DOF: Unlimited.

At, F8, 14 mm, focus distance of 4 m comes up with:

Hyperfocal Distance 0.83 m
Near limit: 0.68
Far limit: Unlimited
Total DOF: Unlimited.
 

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Using a DOF app with the values, F2.8, 14 mm, focus distance of 4 m comes up with:

Hyperfocal Distance 2.32 m
Near limit: 1.47
Far limit: Unlimited
Total DOF: Unlimited.

At, F8, 14 mm, focus distance of 4 m comes up with:

Hyperfocal Distance 0.83 m
Near limit: 0.68
Far limit: Unlimited
Total DOF: Unlimited.
??? could you bring it down to the uneducated level? thanks:)
 

??? could you bring it down to the uneducated level? thanks:)

Is it so hard to understand DoF calculations? No complex formalae is being used here. Instead of staying at the uneducated level, why not go educate yourself?
 

Is it so hard to understand DoF calculations? No complex formalae is being used here. Instead of staying at the uneducated level, why not go educate yourself?

Never tried a tokina or tamron before.. but i like sigma's gold band, makes the ah beng in me buy it. Service wise sigma has good support here. My next aim is the sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6 EX DC HSM.
 

Get the Canon 10-22 especially when you're using it for landscape. Been using it for 6 months now. Helped me in alot of situation. The drop in price is good too =)
 

Is it so hard to understand DoF calculations? No complex formalae is being used here. Instead of staying at the uneducated level, why not go educate yourself?
and already it's clearly evident that it is out of your grasp.

Thanks for the links 2evans.
 

I have a Canon 24-105mm, it seems logical to complement it with a 10-22mm, however the Tokina f2.8 seems an attractive feature to me. Wanted to consult you guys how useful is f2.8 when shooting indoor? Thanks.
 

I have a Canon 24-105mm, it seems logical to complement it with a 10-22mm, however the Tokina f2.8 seems an attractive feature to me. Wanted to consult you guys how useful is f2.8 when shooting indoor? Thanks.

Shouldn't you be asking how useful it is to you? Do you need the added brightness of f/2.8 indoors?
 

I have a Canon 24-105mm, it seems logical to complement it with a 10-22mm, however the Tokina f2.8 seems an attractive feature to me. Wanted to consult you guys how useful is f2.8 when shooting indoor? Thanks.

When shooting indoors with your 24-105, do you find F4 a limitation for you?
 

budget was the main issue...wanted to try on UWA and not willing to spend as much..gotten my tokina 12-24mm F4 at $550 in b/s...

its a good lens...to be frank..i am using it more for street candid..and i am please with the range and yes..maybe one day when i use it for landscaping, i might find that the 2 mm in comparison to canon 10-22mm might be useful..for now, price vs quality...i am please with it.

heard sigma 10-20mm is a good lens, but becos of the constant F4, i chose tokina F4 over the 2mm...like i say, im using it for candids and some times, shooting under low light...which came in handy...if i can afford the F2.8, i would have..but for now..this is good enough for me.

my opinion, u got to find out what kind of use, u r planning for this lens..and choose the one that fits ur needs. If its strictly for landscaping..then the aperture wont really matter, since will be shooting at a higher aperture..
 

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Sigma has launched the 10-20 f3.5.....Almost reach Sg, but not sure when.....
In the Sigma forum someone already said he got quote from shop, $890.... Just don't know how this lens will perform...

Edit: the $890 is a wrong info.
 

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