albertri
Senior Member
All Oly 4/3 lenses are f22... was this due to 4/3 sensor or buy design???
E620 grainy
- Thread starter Dailo
- Start date
All Oly 4/3 lenses are f22... was this due to 4/3 sensor or buy design???
Not just Olympus, many other lenses are as well, manual lenses smallest is f16 for those I have :bsmilie: I'm sure there are others smallest is 16 as well, I don't think its due to 4/3 sensor size, since OM is film of FX or FF for Nikon and Canon, FX still has f32 and FF still has f22,so msot likely its by design of lenses or something else along that line
albertri
Senior Member
yeah looks like by design
would be nice sometimes to have slightly more to smaller f so you could get more details during bright and for night shots... I have problem with Marina Merlion at night due to it's color (white) and strong yellow/white light... most of the time I over expose the shots.. if I do make the shutter speed faster i start to lose background details and the water shine effects... if I open the aperture like f4-f7 i also need to increase the shutter speed, i could get more background but the water shine effect is not much there....
How do you do in such occasion???
Blu-By-U
Senior Member
yeah looks like by design
I have problem with Marina Merlion at night due to it's color (white) and strong yellow/white light... most of the time I over expose the shots.. if I do make the shutter speed faster i start to lose background details and the water shine effects... if I open the aperture like f4-f7 i also need to increase the shutter speed, i could get more background but the water shine effect is not much there....
How do you do in such occasion???
Pop in an ND filter and use spot. Maybe spot and i-Enhance may give it a better dynamic range.
albertri
Senior Member
yeah my bro also told me to get ND filter he said guage 4 and 8 would be a keeper.. any recomendations from Oly users???
An ND filter will not increase dynamic range. The best way I can think of is to use some form of HDR technique.
Another method is to use spot metering, and meter for the brightest point. Then use Auto Tone correction during post processing. This method will have more noise though.
yeah looks like by design
I have problem with Marina Merlion at night due to it's color (white) and strong yellow/white light... most of the time I over expose the shots.. if I do make the shutter speed faster i start to lose background details and the water shine effects... if I open the aperture like f4-f7 i also need to increase the shutter speed, i could get more background but the water shine effect is not much there....
How do you do in such occasion???
Do what Blu-By-U said, that's how photographers in the past did it, my OM1 has only up to 1/1000 of a sec and lens smallest aperture is f16, how do they get images that don't suffer from diffraction as well as slow shutter speed, use many filters, stack like 3 3 stops filter to get 9 stops total?
Example the right exposure at ISO 100 is f8 at 1/250 sec, 9 stops ND filter makes the right exposure, if my calculations are right, ISO 100 f8 2 secs
But of course, take care not to have vignetting when using 3 filters or more
and the spot metering part is also important
Blu-By-U
iEnhance is found on the E-620?
he didn't say ND filter will increase dynamic range. I can also only think of HDR if you want to see all the details, but our eyes can't match HDR, so I'd rather have the Merlion slightly over exposed and the rest all dark,then process to be slightly brighter to get back shadow details,much closer to how our eyes see
albertri
Senior Member
he didn't say ND filter will increase dynamic range. I can also only think of HDR if you want to see all the details, but our eyes can't match HDR, so I'd rather have the Merlion slightly over exposed and the rest all dark,then process to be slightly brighter to get back shadow details,much closer to how our eyes see
thanks to all bro who provided feedbacks
really help...
I think he wanted as slow a shutter speed as he can get so f22
Blu-By-U
Senior Member
Been 1 year since I disposed of that E-620..must have mixed up with my E-PL1.:embrass:
ahahahha,no worries, I was kinda shocked that the E-620 supposedly has iEnhance and I never realize it, hence my question
albertri
Senior Member
here's what I mean look at the merlion even at 10sec still over expose
Both same setting except Shutter speed
f22
ISO-200
10sec
20sec
then its times like this the tools of post processing are needed! We need dodge and burn! But seriously, shoot in RAW, then burn(darken) the highlights, but of course,there is a limit to how much one can do, seems there's still noise, did you use noise filter? I like the 10 sec exposure better
Last edited:
albertri
Senior Member
hmmm i dont think i've change any noise filter settings but I did notice the longer shutter has more noise hehehe strange...
Its not actually,its the limitation of sensor though I might be wrong to call it the limitation of sensors, films will have a color cast with exposure longer than a sec IIRC, sensors I can't remember,is it 1 or 2 secs? will have a lot of noise, whatever brand,whatever sensor size, all will have noise with long exposure even at the lowest ISO setting, have a look here
albertri
Senior Member
wow thanks for the article really helps to understand more about our cam...
No problem,probably can go read up on dodge and burn techniques for your merlion over problem, I'm still trying to find good books on that to read up, only book I have that focuses specifically on post processing is my "Adobe Photoshop CS3 For Photographers" :bsmilie:
albertri
Senior Member
thanks bro, once I have more time I'll experiment also and try to look for article in the internet.
I am considering in getting ND filter and CPL I'll try to read up also about these filters currently I have on my 14-54 is B+W UV Haze filter MRC
Similar threads
