E-M5 Owner - Comments, Critique, Reviews, and what-nots :-)
- Thread starter Oly5050
- Start date
I'm being very conservative with the 70%. I haven't taken enough shots to have a meaningful sample size. Moreover I am not good with the technique: I tend to tap too hard and move the entire camera!
For stealth shooting, when getting the shot is more important than anything else, I tend to stop down a bit and use touch shutter. Silent and deadly!
how do you find the focus speed? i typically get sub-1sec which i find acceptable, but of course far from the near-instantaneous speed of the 12-50. when the light is not so ideal though, the gap closes a little, specially at the tele end. maybe because the 14-54 has a bit more light to work with @f3.5 than the f6.3 of the kit lens. not a biggie, i'm actually more appreciative of the extra shutter speed f3.5 allows to avoid/minimize subject movement blur
that's why i'm so glad the 12-50 had the manual zoom option
12-50 uses the same hood as for the the 9-18, right?
unfortunately, no. i just threw it into the flash pouch
indeed you can. but i have no plans of bringing along the bottom part of the grip.
you're welcome. my intent was actually self-serving-- just wanted to calibrate my sanity with the rest
thanks for sharing. it works like a charm.
C-AF tracking was my default on the D7K for precisely the recomposing advantage you described, but hadn't thought of using it on the E-M5 given what i've read of the weaker tracking performance. now that i've tried it, seems reliable enough for me.
i've discovered though that my 4/3 14-54 doesn't track at all. maybe i've missed a lens firmware update for it? anybody know?
on the 45/1.8 @f1.8, i find material advantage in being able to keep the subject sharply in focus while recomposing, specially when shooting close. at 2.8 it's less noticeable. and at 3.5 where the kit lens start, i find it doesn't really matter either way, specially at normal shooting distances. having said that, i didn't notice focus speed to be any slower, so i'll likely keep it on C-AFtr and keep testing the reliability of the focus accuracy. edit: let me qualify that. focus locking while tracking does take longer, but i dare folks to click the arrow buttons faster
Last edited:
Wilwahabri
New Member
After a couple of weeks with the OM-D, I find I like the camera very much, it has brought the size and weight of a professional system camera down to what it should be, similar to what the OM-1 did in the 70's
Just a few items I think should be on the wish list for new versions of the OM D:-
1. Re introduce the IR remote release function - it is very useful and does not require the weather proof case to be opened to use it
2. Re introduce the equivalent of tethered shooting with software control from a PC / MAC as this is very useful when doing macro work - works with my E series cameras and Olympus Master software.
3. Supply lens hoods with new lenses
4. Make focus confirm work with manual m4/3 lenses without adapters and 3rd party chips
5. Make view finder magnification manually selectable so it can be used with fully manual lenses to enable accurate focusing with shallow depth of field. I know the work around is to use the in built teleconverter, but that requires a press of an assigned button and pressing it again prior to exposure MAY affect the focus.
I was a little disappointed to learn that in other countries a number of promotional items were included with the cameras similar to the launch of other E-series cameras - hardly seems fair that If I bought it in Japan I would receive some quite expensive extras with the camera when Singapore does not offer such items. Example I bought my E-3 in Japan the grip was included and the price was not hiked to compensate, the price was cheaper than the UK or Singapore.
I mistakenly assigned the histogram button to another function and cannot find a way to reset the button to histogram display - it has to be in the menu somewhere but I cannot find it, the manual could be a little clearer on this I cannot find it mentioned.
One other thing, I see a lot of publicity photos from Olympus expounding the virtues of the lenses, and stunning pictures that have been taken using the same lenses, however I have the 75-300 zoom and tried to photograph the moon with it - results are appalling even with everything in manual and mounted on a massive Manfrotto tripod for stability, Image looks sharp in the view finder with the teleconverter switched on [effective focal length 1200mm, 35mm equivalent] but the results are out of focus. Camera on 2 second delay release and 3 second anti shock. Tried at max apeture, f8 and f16 with shutter speeds ranging from 1/25 to 1/100 sec but all bad. I know it is asking a lot but the 4/3 Sigma 50-500 with a 2 times teleconverter [effectively 2000mm, 35mm equivalent] on the e-510 and E-3 gave acceptable, if a little soft, results. Bearing in mind it was similarly priced and similarly rated, f5.6 to f6.3. the 75-300 is a $1000 plus lens and should perform.
Just a few items I think should be on the wish list for new versions of the OM D:-
1. Re introduce the IR remote release function - it is very useful and does not require the weather proof case to be opened to use it
2. Re introduce the equivalent of tethered shooting with software control from a PC / MAC as this is very useful when doing macro work - works with my E series cameras and Olympus Master software.
3. Supply lens hoods with new lenses
4. Make focus confirm work with manual m4/3 lenses without adapters and 3rd party chips
5. Make view finder magnification manually selectable so it can be used with fully manual lenses to enable accurate focusing with shallow depth of field. I know the work around is to use the in built teleconverter, but that requires a press of an assigned button and pressing it again prior to exposure MAY affect the focus.
I was a little disappointed to learn that in other countries a number of promotional items were included with the cameras similar to the launch of other E-series cameras - hardly seems fair that If I bought it in Japan I would receive some quite expensive extras with the camera when Singapore does not offer such items. Example I bought my E-3 in Japan the grip was included and the price was not hiked to compensate, the price was cheaper than the UK or Singapore.
I mistakenly assigned the histogram button to another function and cannot find a way to reset the button to histogram display - it has to be in the menu somewhere but I cannot find it, the manual could be a little clearer on this I cannot find it mentioned.
One other thing, I see a lot of publicity photos from Olympus expounding the virtues of the lenses, and stunning pictures that have been taken using the same lenses, however I have the 75-300 zoom and tried to photograph the moon with it - results are appalling even with everything in manual and mounted on a massive Manfrotto tripod for stability, Image looks sharp in the view finder with the teleconverter switched on [effective focal length 1200mm, 35mm equivalent] but the results are out of focus. Camera on 2 second delay release and 3 second anti shock. Tried at max apeture, f8 and f16 with shutter speeds ranging from 1/25 to 1/100 sec but all bad. I know it is asking a lot but the 4/3 Sigma 50-500 with a 2 times teleconverter [effectively 2000mm, 35mm equivalent] on the e-510 and E-3 gave acceptable, if a little soft, results. Bearing in mind it was similarly priced and similarly rated, f5.6 to f6.3. the 75-300 is a $1000 plus lens and should perform.
There are a lot of things for moon photography with a 4/3 300 mm lens. In fact, I use TC 2 to get 600 mm. You obv need tripod, live view, focus mag, IBIS off, mirror lock on, fine detailed manual focus, remote shutter etc etc etc etc and the right exposure settings.
hyperFocal
New Member
Perhaps you should try apertures larger than f8, NR and NF off? And turn off the digital teleconverter.
perhaps a higer shutter?
I got the 100-300mm and tried shooting the moon with tripod so i just went up to 1/250 max. But on one occasion i shot it with 1/320 handheld, and at that time it was not properly exposed. Only long after i view it on the computer screen did i noticed that picture was slightly sharper than all the correct exposure shots at 1/250 and less.
however i have no chance of confirming this point as camera has been sold to fund the EM5.
I got the 100-300mm and tried shooting the moon with tripod so i just went up to 1/250 max. But on one occasion i shot it with 1/320 handheld, and at that time it was not properly exposed. Only long after i view it on the computer screen did i noticed that picture was slightly sharper than all the correct exposure shots at 1/250 and less.
however i have no chance of confirming this point as camera has been sold to fund the EM5.
I brought out my E-M5 for some street shooting yesterday and discovered some usability issues with the EVF eye sensor. First, it was too sensitive. I couldn't do waist-level shooting using the touchscreen without disabling the sensor, because the EVF would be activated either by my body (even when separated by the flipped out LCD screen) or by my finger moving in to touch the touchscreen. Olympus should issue a firmware update to correct the issue, such that the eye sensor can be automatically disabled when the LCD screen is turned on via the button. Second, since I hang my camera in front of my body when not using it, the eye sensor will cause the EVF to stay on all the time and thus waste battery. With the sensor switched off (due to the problem with waist-level shooting), I instead set the screen to switch off after one minute of idling. It worked brilliantly except I had to half-press the shutter to wake the camera up and activate the EVF, before I can take a shot. That was a minor issue compared to the sensitive eye sensor, but annoying nonetheless.
Also, the Summilux 25mm f/1.4 exhibited some clicking noise (not as bad as "rattling") when pointed at bright lights. I looked and confirmed that it was due to the aperture opening/closing. Once I half-pressed the shutter to open / close down the aperture, the noise went away.
Overall it was still a pleasant shooting experience. The camera was way less attention-drawing (except to camera buffs who stared and commented among themselves "oooh that's the new OM-D" :bsmilie
and less intimidating to others. The people on the street and in the mall (including security guards) didn't give a hoot when I lifted the little E-M5 to my eye.
Also, the Summilux 25mm f/1.4 exhibited some clicking noise (not as bad as "rattling") when pointed at bright lights. I looked and confirmed that it was due to the aperture opening/closing. Once I half-pressed the shutter to open / close down the aperture, the noise went away.
Overall it was still a pleasant shooting experience. The camera was way less attention-drawing (except to camera buffs who stared and commented among themselves "oooh that's the new OM-D" :bsmilie
and less intimidating to others. The people on the street and in the mall (including security guards) didn't give a hoot when I lifted the little E-M5 to my eye.
Last edited:
Yes. The E-M5 noticeably warms up after intensive use, like when I play games on my iPhone. Hopefully it won't affect the sensor performance too much.
NazgulKing
Senior Member
Just don't use it for video for too long and you ought to be fine.
I have one with me, and it doesn't work. I was the one who posted it on DPR. :bsmilie: If you set to bounce, it stops working.
I brought out my E-M5 for some street shooting yesterday and discovered some usability issues with the EVF eye sensor. First, it was too sensitive. I couldn't do waist-level shooting using the touchscreen without disabling the sensor, because the EVF would be activated either by my body (even when separated by the flipped out LCD screen) or by my finger moving in to touch the touchscreen. Olympus should issue a firmware update to correct the issue, such that the eye sensor can be automatically disabled when the LCD screen is turned on via the button. Second, since I hang my camera in front of my body when not using it, the eye sensor will cause the EVF to stay on all the time and thus waste battery. With the sensor switched off (due to the problem with waist-level shooting), I instead set the screen to switch off after one minute of idling. It worked brilliantly except I had to half-press the shutter to wake the camera up and activate the EVF, before I can take a shot. That was a minor issue compared to the sensitive eye sensor, but annoying nonetheless.
Also, the Summilux 25mm f/1.4 exhibited some clicking noise (not as bad as "rattling") when pointed at bright lights. I looked and confirmed that it was due to the aperture opening/closing. Once I half-pressed the shutter to open / close down the aperture, the noise went away.
Overall it was still a pleasant shooting experience. The camera was way less attention-drawing (except to camera buffs who stared and commented among themselves "oooh that's the new OM-D" :bsmilie
Yup, I was so annoyed with the sensitivity of the eye sensor that I switched it off within the first day and have since been using the button to toggle using my right thumb nail. It works much better that way for me.
Yup, super stealthy camera, especially in black. It is such a "sleeper" or "wolf in sheep clothing"
iise7en
Senior Member
Hi,
I brought my new EM-5 out yesterday for a test shoot at Jurong Bird Park, with Pansonic 100-300mm.
All were taken handheld and wide open.
I must say, the EM-5 was a breeze to carry and shoot with Panasonic 100-300mm without carrying "snail-style" bag. The overall performance of the camera and lens were superb GOOOD-OMD!!!!
Here you go for some pictures as shown below.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Lastly, my favourite shot.
I brought my new EM-5 out yesterday for a test shoot at Jurong Bird Park, with Pansonic 100-300mm.
All were taken handheld and wide open.
I must say, the EM-5 was a breeze to carry and shoot with Panasonic 100-300mm without carrying "snail-style" bag. The overall performance of the camera and lens were superb GOOOD-OMD!!!!
Here you go for some pictures as shown below.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Lastly, my favourite shot.
Last edited:
This is dumb...
But is there a setting to set so tat I can preview the pic after takin it on the LCD screen without pressing the 'play' setting ?...
finally got my hld6 from my sister who returned from hkg.
fix it up and here's some info.
actually, with jus the grip alone, it feels good enough. but it will b troublesome to change batt as u need to remove it to get access to the batt.
fixed up the batt pack as well.
the omd+hld6 full set , this setup gains size and some weight. but still ok compare to a dslr + batt pack
my setup
om-d + hld6 + mmf1 + 14-54 II.
front heavy, feels like a DD cup on a slim body...lol
anyway, the hold is definitely better than with on my ep2.
and in this setup, it's better to hv the batt pack as well.
it's also a thoughtful thought of the olympus designers to hv slots for u to keep the rubber piece to prevent them from missing.
om-f + hld6 grip batt pack with mmf1 n 14-54 II by ijnek, on Flickr
Untitled by ijnek, on Flickr
But is there a setting to set so tat I can preview the pic after takin it on the LCD screen without pressing the 'play' setting ?...
finally got my hld6 from my sister who returned from hkg.
fix it up and here's some info.
actually, with jus the grip alone, it feels good enough. but it will b troublesome to change batt as u need to remove it to get access to the batt.
fixed up the batt pack as well.
the omd+hld6 full set , this setup gains size and some weight. but still ok compare to a dslr + batt pack
my setup
om-d + hld6 + mmf1 + 14-54 II.
front heavy, feels like a DD cup on a slim body...lol
anyway, the hold is definitely better than with on my ep2.
and in this setup, it's better to hv the batt pack as well.
it's also a thoughtful thought of the olympus designers to hv slots for u to keep the rubber piece to prevent them from missing.
om-f + hld6 grip batt pack with mmf1 n 14-54 II by ijnek, on Flickr
Untitled by ijnek, on Flickr
Last edited:
