E-6 Process

[kgston]

Oh ya, BTW Kgston, is my film and chemical taking space from you? If so, I try to drop by this weekend to collect them before my ICT next week. Have been a very busy week till today. Hopefully I can get more time after my ICT to organize some small outing. Hopefully there are good response.

No worries, whenever you are free btw i'm done testing my drum scanner.. if you want, you can bring a 4x5 slide to try out.. also quite interested to see the results.. but from my testing so far, dry mounting cannot really keep the entire film flat on the drum.. must pull the film very taut otherwise will OOF..but 35mm scans have been quite decent.. might have to bring in wet mounting fluid.. but now no $$.. haha.. dunno if anyone interested to to get too then can save a bit on shipping..

 

[dtkky]

Sorry I've been busy with other things and didn't have time to fiddle with my drum scanner. Kgston, if you are ordering mounting fluid (Kami?), I would like to tompang. I have the old type which is oily and very messy.

 

[kgston]

Sorry I've been busy with other things and didn't have time to fiddle with my drum scanner. Kgston, if you are ordering mounting fluid (Kami?), I would like to tompang. I have the old type which is oily and very messy.

Problem with Kami is they dun sell directly, need to buy from a retailer.. and I don't know of one that does intl' sea shipping (these mounting fluid are highly flammable, only ship via surface), however there is another brand, Lumnia that ships intl' by sea which makes things easier.. and looks reputable also.. it comes in 8 oz (236ml) bottles. I calculated it will be est. 30 Canadian dollars per bottle for a shipment of 8 bottles.. probably will get 2 or 3 for my own use.. hoping to find enuf people to hit 8 bottles (either that or I'll have to tong the rest and sell off slowly in mass sale section hahaha) dtkky, if you are interested or anyone else who is interested, we can discuss over PM, best not to hijack the thread

 

[wootsk]

We have been hijacking this thread for so long already. ;p

 

[kgston]

Recently wootsk came over to collect some stuff from me and we did some test scans of his 4x5 slides on my drum scanner. Total resolution came out to be about 340MP, 2gb+ @16bit TIFF file

Straight out from the scanner: (Colour and luminosity is a tad off as it isn't calibrated, probably have to bring in some 4x5 IT8 targets.. but curves can fix this problem)

100% crop of the yellow wall.

Image was dry mounted and scanner aperture set to smallest. Its pretty hard to keep the film in focus with dry mounting.. wet mounting should solve this issue though..

As expected, little to no noise at all, particularly in shadow area. Resolving power wise, I would not say that it leaves the Coolscan 9k in the dust.. Just a tad better.. but not sure if the benefits outweigh the cons though.. Its troublesome to mount, no digital ICE, no highly automated software and expensive to run.. and that is before we put wet mounting into the picture..

 

[wootsk]

I think submitting another copy of it after some cleaning up will be good.

 

[wootsk]

I promise my friend quite sometime ago about trying cross processing a negative 4*5. (I just gotten 10 sheets of Ektar100 with help from Kgston when he visit japan recently. Many thanks ) As such, I am planning to shoot it and develop somewhere next month. I am suggesting a get together so we can share any updates as well. I am also attempting to try mix a developer told to be able to develop ultra old film without problem. (Uncle roger might have some antique stuck in his store somewhere :bsmilie

If interested, the below is the link. The chemical I am short of is Disodium phosphate.
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum223/66525-ing-koblic-mpb-outdated-film-developer.html

 

[zk-diq]

your slide at 300dpi and 4500 dpi (approx, Dmin 0.27 Dmax 3.95)
The text is at 4500 dpi, side 2 pix around 3000dpi.
Tone/Gradation at shadow/midtone can be darker once setting of Dmax move up to 3.2 or less without using image editing software to adjust.

just for your knowledge.

 

[wootsk]

your slide at 300dpi and 4500 dpi (approx, Dmin 0.27 Dmax 3.95)
The text is at 4500 dpi, side 2 pix around 3000dpi.
Tone/Gradation at shadow/midtone can be darker once setting of Dmax move up to 3.2 or less without using image editing software to adjust.

just for your knowledge.

Nice, but I must not say anything about the viewing platform compared to a light box. Absolutely CANNOT SAY!

Ba Happy. Be Happy. Be Happy. Be Happy. Be Happy with what you have SK.

 

[zk-diq]

Nice, but I must not say anything about the viewing platform compared to a light box. Absolutely CANNOT SAY!

Ba Happy. Be Happy. Be Happy. Be Happy. Be Happy with what you have SK.

yes just be happy, your display/print window only have 8x3 bit depth in colour (256 level x RGB), where your original reach 3.7 - 4.0 Dmax (3800-9600 level x RGB).
and must squeeze all in to the small area.

 

[wootsk]

yes just be happy, your display/print window only have 8x3 bit depth in colour (256 level x RGB), where your original reach 3.7 - 4.0 Dmax (3800-9600 level x RGB).
and must squeeze all in to the small area.

You just stabbed at where it hurts most.

:hammer::hammer::hammer:

 

[mamypoko]

Hi guys, getting my E6 chemicals next week, would like to check how you guys maintain water temperature at 38 degrees celcius??

I am looking for a heater for a tank with all the chemicals but unable to find any locally which heats more than 34 degrees.

I am looking at the Novatronic heater from the Nova Darkroom UK, awaiting their reply on whether they ship to Singapore or not.

Any suggestions appreciated, thank you!

 

[zguy]

Hi guys, getting my E6 chemicals next week, would like to check how you guys maintain water temperature at 38 degrees celcius??

I am looking for a heater for a tank with all the chemicals but unable to find any locally which heats more than 34 degrees.

I am looking at the Novatronic heater from the Nova Darkroom UK, awaiting their reply on whether they ship to Singapore or not.

Any suggestions appreciated, thank you!

guess no fish swim in hot water...
you can use Vpost Europe to ship to SG even if Nova Darkroom UK dun ship to Singapore.

 

[lkkang]

I must visit you some day...
Always wanted to do E6 processing myself... 34deg seems to be very close to 38deg. Personally, I will do try to do some cheating to the sensor or supply source...

- use a varac to increase the supply from 235VAC to 245VAC
- modify the temperature sensor a little bit..

what heater are you using now, I go see if it is possible to do something
Billy

Hi guys, getting my E6 chemicals next week, would like to check how you guys maintain water temperature at 38 degrees celcius??

I am looking for a heater for a tank with all the chemicals but unable to find any locally which heats more than 34 degrees.

I am looking at the Novatronic heater from the Nova Darkroom UK, awaiting their reply on whether they ship to Singapore or not.

Any suggestions appreciated, thank you!

 

[zguy]

I must visit you some day...
Always wanted to do E6 processing myself... 34deg seems to be very close to 38deg. Personally, I will do try to do some cheating to the sensor or supply source...

- use a varac to increase the supply from 235VAC to 245VAC
- modify the temperature sensor a little bit..

what heater are you using now, I go see if it is possible to do something
Billy

probably aquarium heaters. some said that on some heaters, the temperature control knob has a hard stop to limit it to 34degrees. breaking that hard stop will allow the temperature to go beyond 34degrees.

do u think is doable on this kind of heater? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aquarium-Fi...plies_Fish&hash=item1c1fbad27c#ht_7761wt_1204

 

[lkkang]

thanks for the reply.

I think this is absolutely doable.

2 ways you can overcome this temperature constrain here.. I might get one of this heater and play with it. I am very keen to shoot slides

1) using a slightly higher AC input. You need a VARAC ( which is not a very common piece of equipment ).
2) you can try open up the casing and play with the temperature adjusting knob. This is not so straight forward to overcome. I need to see how this product was constructed / design to regulate the temperature, then , see how to "bluff" the controller.

thanks again
Billy

probably aquarium heaters. some said that on some heaters, the temperature control knob has a hard stop to limit it to 34degrees. breaking that hard stop will allow the temperature to go beyond 34degrees.

do u think is doable on this kind of heater? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aquarium-Fi...plies_Fish&hash=item1c1fbad27c#ht_7761wt_1204

 

[wootsk]

I tested when developing my slides, into drum temperature is 40 degree, out of drum temperature is 35 - 36 degree. No issue with it. The most important step is the first developer. After that, you can be slightly more lax with the rest of the chemical. (I will heat it till 38 - 42 degree) Main reason is that for E6 developing, after the color couples(dunno how to spell) is set in the color developer, the silver are of no use and will all be bleached off already. Tetenal one are even easier considering only 3 bath. I don't really use the stabalizer and they are still sleeping in my fridge. ;p

I still got some tetenal left and can consider having a small developing group after I came back from holiday.(Sure got slides to develop 1) Tetenal is easier for it being a 3 bath set.

 

[zguy]

I tested when developing my slides, into drum temperature is 40 degree, out of drum temperature is 35 - 36 degree. No issue with it. The most important step is the first developer. After that, you can be slightly more lax with the rest of the chemical. (I will heat it till 38 - 42 degree) Main reason is that for E6 developing, after the color couples(dunno how to spell) is set in the color developer, the silver are of no use and will all be bleached off already. Tetenal one are even easier considering only 3 bath. I don't really use the stabalizer and they are still sleeping in my fridge. ;p

I still got some tetenal left and can consider having a small developing group after I came back from holiday.(Sure got slides to develop 1) Tetenal is easier for it being a 3 bath set.

so you heat up the chemicals using a water bath that is mixed from cold and hot water? better to use stainless steel containers than plastic ones?

I am also trying to get the Tetenal E6 kit in to try.

 

[wootsk]

so you heat up the chemicals using a water bath that is mixed from cold and hot water? better to use stainless steel containers than plastic ones?

I am also trying to get the Tetenal E6 kit in to try.

No, I tired using a 500ml chemical submerged in boiling water and it tooks me 30mins+ on a warm afternoon (I have to keep adding hot water when temperature felt cooler) If you submerge it in cold and hot water, god knows how long it takes for you to reach 38 degree...

So I came up with using a thinner tube system by placing 40 - 60ml in a thinner glass measuring cylinder, I can submerge it into warm water and it heats up to 40 degree in less than a minute. Regarding the 40ml drum, I show it to ShadowLeong when he drop over at my place to collect tripod. I think it is best is I can do a small demo rather than explaining here cause me vege bird.

I do a initial wash for my film before first developer in around 45- 50 degree water for 1- 2 min. It is for clearing the film off some handling mark as well as warming the drum for first developer.

Another issue I find with one time use is chemical are used fresh rather than recycling everytime with a 500ml. This allows more constant result produced.

 

[wootsk]

Getting emo liao. Just broken my thermometer. It's my 6th thermometer already... Wonder if I should get a metal one with a gauge. But those metal type cannot act as a stirrer and doesn't seems to react as well as a lab use alcohol type.