Thanks. Most likely I will get the Sirui T-X series with the twist lock.
DX camera recommendation
- Thread starter renol
- Start date
Thanks. Most likely I will get the Sirui T-X series with the twist lock.
Please don't forget to multiply crop factor to the aperture when you mention equivalence to full frame. 12-40 f/2.8 has a 35mm equivalent of 24-80 f/5.6. For ISO equivalence, you need to multiply to the square of the crop factor.
There's a guy who already explained this in 3-4 videos on youtube (Tony Northrup). I'm not advertising him, I just don't know somebody else who explains this equivalence topic better. If you do, please share here.
This thread has no longer been a "DX camera recommendation thread" for quite some time now.
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That might be the case, but people still use it as a 24-70 f2.8 kind of lens. General purpose large aperture zoom.
You really have to be clear what Tony is actually saying.
Exposure settings will be the same. For the same scene FOV, at the same ISO settings, the two lenses at F2.8 will still give you roughly the same shutter speed. So exposure triangle is around the same. That is where F2.8 in m4/3 is equal to F2.8 in FF. Only for DoF, the aperture equivalence is different. and it is not exact 2x also. To be exact, you can use this to calculate: http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
As for ISO equivalence, this only holds true it you are comparing crop factor on the same exact sensor. Cameras (hardware and software) are designed as a whole. So the software and image processors are tuned to maximize IQ for that particular sensor size as a whole. It is not as simple as throwing our 4x (2 stops). And with new technologies, APSC and m4/3 are really closing the gap really fast. Just look at X-trans sensor vs Bayer pattern FF sensors. If you ask me, noise is overrated.
Many folks are so focused on "Bokeh" now that they automatically equate aperture size to bokeh... so very quick to talk about aperture equivalence. But as you shoot more and push the limits of your camera, you will understand that wider apertures give you a lot more than just the ability to blur the background. Giving you the ability to get a faster shutter speed in low light trumps background blur any day, in terms of importance.
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You are correct about same exposure triangle on different-sized sensors but as the noise and DoF of the resulting photos (from the two diff sensor-sized cameras) are no longer the same, it is less of being the same photo than taking shots of the same scene using exposure triangles that completely takes into account the crop factor.
Are we more concerned of how our shots can be taken at the same settings with different gears than how we are able to shoot exactly the same photo with different gears?
We are concerned about making great images. If the picture is great, it doesn't matter if it's a F8, 1/320s ISO 100 shot or a F2.8, 1/1000s ISO 100 shot. At the end of the day, if you make great pictures, I don't care what settings you use. I appreciate the image, not the F-stop or noise.
Pretty darn good deal IMO, too bad I have exams
EDIT: lol I just say the description of the 45/1.8, "girlfriend lens".
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Haha... "Girlfriend Lens". Are you also getting?
The 45mm lens has to redeem, not get it upon purchase.
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Actually no... many people, myself included, buying into a mirrorless system is to shoot for a different purpose. I still have my FF equipment, and large lenses which I will still use for certain purposes. But the mirrorless system is used for travel shots.
The thing is, understand what you need a system for, and use the right tool for the right job. Learn the system's characteristic well, and push the limits. How thin your DoF is never an indication of how good your pictures are. Understanding your basics and your tools well, so shooting become 2nd nature, so when the moment comes you can execute without much fumbling, so you can make good pictures.
BTW, ever shot with FF before and felt that some of your subjects faces are blur due to too thin a DoF? happens to me all the time, because light is bad, and I have to use a large aperture to get the shutter speed I want. But ended up having a few faces in the picture blur due to insufficient depth. A APSC or m43 camera here will help greatly, giving me the shutter speed I need and the deeper DoF at the same time. It is a double edge sword.
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Think we should stop discussing about FX, TS is only keen to know DX previously and now mirrorless, is kind of off topic now.
There really is nothing to be sorry about. Photography is suppose to be a fun thing to do, and any format works... If you think mirrorless interchangeable lens camera worked for you, then it is alright, as long as it is fun.
We are carried off discussing the DOF on 35mm fullframe sensor as compared to smaller m43 size sensor. But we will stop now since it is off topic.
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Thanks everyone for the information.
I should be getting my gear very soon.
Nope.
I went for OLYMPUS OM-D E-M10 + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL 12-42mm EZ + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 40-150mm F4.0-5.6 R + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL 45mm F1.8.